Many cooks wouldn't dream of making french fries at home. They're too messy. But think about other big messes that are worth it: boiled lobster, cole slaw, even pancakes. At home, fries are memorable.
For crispy, golden brown fries, you only need starchy potatoes, peanut or corn oil, and a heavy and deep pan. A straight-sided skillet or flameproof casserole will work. Cast iron is best.
There is a moment, when you're in the middle of making the fries and you realize you're going to succeed at it, that you think a miracle is about to happen in your kitchen.
This version is cooked three times. For the first, the potatoes are whole, and they're essentially baked. Then they're cut and fried in oil at two different temperatures. The technique does away with many variables and results in a crunchy, resilient, and verypotato-y fry.
After baking the potatoes, leave the skins on, square off the spuds, then slice them lengthwise into rectangular slabs about 1/2 inch thick. Stack a few of the rectangles and cut across them into thick strips.
As with the classic Belgian fries, these require a relatively cool temperature the first time they go into hot fat. This dries and stiffens them. A second, hotter oil bath puffs and crisps them. Throw a few sprigs of fresh thyme into the oil, then drain both, toss with plenty of salt, and pass the napkins. They're foolproof and better than anything you'd be presented at a restaurant.
Send the clean freaks out for dinner.
