ARLINGTON - Nothing hits the spot on a cold winter day like a plate of momos.
That's true in Nepal, where these flavorful dumplings and their spicy, addictive tomato-based sauce are a favorite cold-weather dish. And it's just as true in the Arlington kitchen of Jeny Lalchan, 30, a native of Nepal who has lived in this country for 10 years. On a recent Saturday morning, Lalchan, with help from her husband, Ranjan Budhathoki, 31, and their friend Bijay Ghising, 34, are putting together a batch of momos while chatting about the popular specialty, which is also served in Tibet.
"In Nepal, it's a major dish," says Lalchan. "On every block, you'll see a momo cafe or restaurant."
"In our college life," adds Budhathoki, who is now a police officer at Suffolk University, "we used to eat them every day. Especially in winter, when spicy food is popular." They'd compete to see who could down the most (some college experiences are universal). The tasty dumplings are inexpensive, convenient student fare, but they're enjoyed by Nepalese young and old, on all kinds of occasions. "They're very versatile," says Lalchan. "They can be an appetizer, an afternoon snack, or even a whole meal."
It's mildly ironic that Lalchan never cooked or ate momos until she came to the United States. She was a vegetarian at home. The filling can be chicken, lamb, pork, or - most popular in Nepal - buffalo, but there are no meatless variations. And she never cooked them because she went to boarding school so wasn't around to learn kitchen skills. Once she arrived here, nostalgia settled in, and she decided to try her hand at the cuisine of her homeland. Nepalese friends here encouraged her efforts and a few phone calls home to her mother, a good cook, filled in the gaps. Soon, she had a reputation that drew friends, Nepalese and American, to her table.
On this chilly Saturday, Lalchan works calmly despite the household bustle that surrounds her (she and her husband live in the home of Robin Schoenthaler and her two children; Lalchan calls it her "home away from home"). Momos, she explains, aren't prepared according to a strict formula but rather can be varied to the taste of the cook. She likes them heavy on the ginger. But the seasonings should be added with a free hand, since that's part of what sets them apart from other dumplings. Spiked with garlic, cumin, turmeric, and scallions, the filling - it's chicken today - has an almost curried flavor. To make sure the mixture is well combined, Lalchan dons disposable rubber gloves to get right into it with her hands.
The tricky part - Lalchan calls this "the fun part" - is filling and sealing the dumplings. She uses ready-made wrappers from an Asian market. In Nepal, she says, "you have to make the dough. It tastes better but it's a lot of work." She and Budhathoki make quick work of the characteristic pleated seam where the edges meet; the finished momos resemble pot stickers. A beginner would probably need a bit of practice to make momos that look as tidy as theirs, but even imperfect momos taste good.
To cook them, Lalchan layers the dumplings in a special multilevel steamer from Nepal; a bamboo steamer or even a folding metal steamer would work. She sprays the steamer with Pam ("this is convenient - we don't have it in Nepal," she says) and places the momos in a single layer, taking care that they don't touch each other to avoid sticking and tearing. After 10 or 15 minutes over boiling water, the dumplings look shiny, which means they're done.
A spicy tomato achar, or chutney, is the requisite accompaniment. To make it, Lalchan toasts sesame, mustard, and cumin seeds in a dry skillet, then does the same with meaty plum tomatoes. Those ingredients, plus other seasonings, go into a blender to make a sauce that's bright, fresh, and pungent with raw garlic. The key ingredient, says Lalchan, is a spice called Nepalese timur, or Sichuan pepper. Lalchan's stash was brought by a friend from Nepal; it's also at Penzeys Spicesin Arlington (781-646-7707 or penzeys.com).
Lalchan has made an enormous quantity of momos, but they disappear quickly as the household gathers around the kitchen table. It's only fitting that there's a large group of people consuming a large number of momos: "This is what we do in our community," says Budhathoki. "Everyone helps make them, and then everyone eats. It's a great way to socialize at home."
