In Argentina, altitude translates to amplitude
For thousands of years, wine grapes lived and died where they were born, or very near to it. But the people who tended vineyards and enjoyed the wine that came from them weren't always happy to stay put. When the urge for moving on took hold, they often packed up the means of making wine and brought it along for the ride. In this way, the Greeks first exported viticulture to Italy, Romans carried the technology to Spain, and Spaniards, much later, brought it to the Americas.
Hard to imagine maybe, but in all these places wine was once a start-up. And for the entrepreneurs involved, no matter how widely separated in time or geography, the problem would have been exactly the same: how to match a varietal with a promising patch of ground that would bring out its best. The monks spent a millennium or so figuring it all out in Burgundy. Sometimes, as in Argentina, it happens a little faster.
Though Jesuits first planted vineyards in the foothills of the Andes in the 16th century, the groundwork for export-grade fine wine wasn't laid there until the mid-19th century, when the French brought pre-phylloxera malbec vines to the region. Malbec was then (and still is) a blending grape in Bordeaux, and the source of some sturdy if idiosyncratic wines in the French southwest. If, today, malbec from Argentina teeters on the verge of international stardom, it's in part because there's something about the South American version of this grape that shines at higher elevations - altitude being something Argentina possesses in spades.
While some tiny fraction of European vineyards reach as high as 1,000 meters (3,280 feet), the average elevation of Argentina's plantings is very close to 900 meters, with at least one vineyard exceeding 3,000 meters. In these altitudes, grapes ripen slowly and - thanks to the abundant sunshine - fully. The results are reliably deeply colored, deeply flavored reds with cushy textures and ripe, plummy flavors.
At least one producer, Chandon Argentina, considers altitude such a critical point of differentiation that it grows each varietal at a specific, optimal distance above sea level and puts the elevation on the label. For its malbec (Terrazas de los Andes; see tasting notes below), that's 1,067 meters.
The group of 15 wines we tasted for this column were remarkable in two ways. First, each displayed a characteristic aroma profile so distinctive it would stand out in any blind tasting. Second, it took a long time to tease out what we thought were the five best; not, as is sometimes the case, because the low price presents a quality challenge, but because we liked almost every one we tasted.
We suspect this tendency to outperform their prices may have something to do with the favorable exchange rate between the Argentine peso and the dollar, as well as the lower costs of production in South America compared with those in Europe or the United States.
Whatever the reason, consumers with an eye for value in red wine would do well to consider a little tango with any of the following.
Nieto Senetiner Mendoza Malbec Reserva 2005. Lightish, bright, uncomplicated plumlike fruit; fresh and juicy; little texture here but wonderfully agreeable. Around $12. At Martignetti Liquors, Brighton, 617-782-3700; Wine Emporium, South End, 617-262-0379; Newton Highland Wine & Spirits, 617-527-3040.
Terrazas de los Andes Mendoza Malbec 2006. Appealing, blocky dark-red fruit and some fine zip; slight but telling oaky grace note; some grip and a nicely lingering finish. Around $12. At Colonial Spirits, Acton, 978-263-7775; Menotomy Beer & Wine, Arlington, 781-646-0889; Kappy's Liquors, Medford, 781-395-8888.
Trapiche "Oak Cask" Mendoza Malbec 2005. Distinctly perceptible element of interest added by oak treatment here; subtle notes of eucalyptus and chocolate. Plenty of fruit support for the wood and some toothsome texture. Around $12. At Cambridge Wine & Spirits, 617-864-7171; Gordon's Fine Wines, Waltham, 781-893-1900; Trader Joe's, Framingham, 508-935-2931.
Bodega Norton "Lo Tengo" Malbec 2006. Good concentration of dark, sweet red fruit; subtle brown spice notes add an element of complexity. The holographic label will generate some conversation, but the real surprise here is the deliciousness of what's inside. Around $12. At Marty's Fine Wine, Newton, 617-332-1230; DeLuca's Market, North End, 617-523-4343; Menotomy Beer & Wine.
Altos Las Hormigas Mendoza Malbec 2006. The overall impression is a little startling for a $12 wine: big and mouth-filling without being overbearing. Oak treatment is handled expertly - adding flavor, interest, and a hint of complexity. A beauty. Around $12. At Federal Wine & Spirits, Boston, 617-367-8605; Berman's Wine & Spirits, Lexington, 781-862-0515; Blanchards Wines & Spirits, Jamaica Plain, 617-522-9300.
Stephen Meuse can be reached at onwine@comcast.net.
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