Two fringe benefits of drinking "against the grain" in Napa are more moderate prices and reasonable availability. While these wines aren't made in large amounts - typically a few thousand cases each - neither are they subject to the same crushing demand as Napa's celebrity labels. Michael Havens's wines are distributed in Massachusetts by MS Walker (800-962-3522); those of Cain Vineyards & Winery by Ruby Wines (508-588-7007).
Havens Napa Valley Merlot 2003. Grapes sourced from a variety of Napa sites. Persistent spicy, raspberry and currant flavors; fine zip and zest with a nice dollop of earth and plenty of texture; shapely, satisfying wine. Around $26.
Havens "Bourriquot" 2003. Havens's paean to great Right Bank Bordeaux, the name means a horse with a mind of its own. Supple and harmonious blend of 67 percent cab franc and 33 percent merlot; complex and closely integrated; a bundle of darkly sweet red fruits with nice "lift," subtle mint notes and a firm structure. Around $43.
Cain Cuvee NV5 (2004-5). Cocktail of merlot, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, and petit verdot with some Spring Mountain, some valley fruit. A bright, vibrant, ingenuous wine with immediately appealing fruit flavors and no evident oak. Goes over the tongue and straight to the heart. Around $35.
Cain Concept "The Benchland" 2004. Primarily cabernet sauvignon sourced from alluvial sites at the base of the mountains around Oakville, Rutherford, and St. Helena ("the Benches"), with smaller amounts of merlot, cab franc, and petit verdot. Shows distinctive cabernet aromas and some characteristic "cut"; savory black cherry profile; thoughtfully extracted and beautifully balanced. Identical vinification to big bro Cain Five. Around $60.
Cain Five 2004. All five Bordeaux varietals involved here and 100 percent Spring Mountain fruit. Rich, ripe, and briary with more weight and saturation - and likely ageing potential - than Concept; a deep pool of complex flavors and enveloping texture. Around $125.
STEPHEN MEUSE
