Four for the 4th
These dishes are festive and portable, so take them along whether your celebration is at the beach or in the backyard
The Fourth of July doesn't hold the culinary clout of the winter holidays. But there are still hungry people around and a festive spirit to uphold. Your food preparations can wander in almost any direction, so create a fun menu to match your mood and whatever looks good at the market.
At one time, the reigning Independence Day menu was wild salmon, green peas, and new potatoes. Today, for a number of reasons, the ground rules have changed. Wild salmon isn't on many menus (see story on this page), guests aren't expecting anything as traditional, and there's a more relaxed nature to the day's celebration. You might find yourself on the beach at dusk, surrounded by friends and family; along the Esplanade waiting for the music to begin; on a neighboring rooftop; or on a suburban deck next to a smoky grill. The menu should be flexible and portable.
Bearing that in mind, if you're asked to make something for a celebration buffet, a big bowl of salad is a sensible route, either potato, pasta, or vegetables in brimming portions. If you're hosting, set these dishes around some grilled burgers, hot dogs, steaks, or fish. And if you're a guest, come bearing one of these bountiful preparations and you'll be welcomed warmly.
Potato salad is the standard bearer of summery sides, and the main staple of American cook-outs. Rich creamy dressings go wonderfully with spuds but don't hold up especially well in the heat. Instead, go with an oil-and-vinegar based salad, which isn't as perishable. Bacon and apples are about as American as garnishes get and offer a nice change of pace from the creamy potato and egg mixtures so common in take-out shops. The fattiness of the bacon fills out the potatoes and crisp apples offer a sweet counterpoint. Pull the dish together with fresh thyme, browned onions, and a spoonful of grainy mustard.
On the popularity scale, pasta salad isn't far behind potato at summer parties. This season's pasta can come in the form of cute-as-a-button bow ties, tossed while warm with spears of asparagus, small tomatoes, and crumbled feta. Pasta salads shouldn't be assembled too far in advance. You're looking for a dish that's light and lively with bow ties that aren't soggy or overwhelmed by vegetables.
Balance these carbohydrates with something crisp and green. Lettuce and other salad greens are a nuisance to take on the road because they don't hold up particularly well. If you want to retrieve something from the traditional menu, you might do peas, but who wants to shuck enough sweet peas to feed a crowd? Sugar snaps are also in season and offer the additional benefit of a crisp texture. If you're not packing them to go, blanch the snap peas for a moment to soften them slightly and then toss with lemon rind, butter, and tarragon, a fragrant herb that tastes faintly of licorice. As a salad, simply substitute olive oil for the butter and serve the dish cool.
To end the meal, make a large fruit pie, or even churn your own ice cream (if you don't do it on a long weekend, you'll never use that ice cream machine you bought). For cooks who need a dessert that's quicker, berry parfaits may become your new summer treat. Toss strawberries and blueberries with mint and lemon, and layer them in clear disposable drink cups with sweetened creme fraiche or whipped cream. If you're busy, make an assembly line and put the kids to work. Mound the salads in big plastic bowls, fire up the grill, spread out a paper tablecloth, and lay out your spread. Then sit back and wait for the fireworks.
