Fried rice with a twist

(Jim davis/globe staff)

"Thai food is like a chain restaurant these days," says Na Dongparteep, who owns Phuket, a West Roxbury Thai restaurant she opened two years ago with her brother, Wikrom. "Every restaurant is the same," she says. "So we do a twist." Both the menu and the restaurant's decor depart from standard-issue Thai - white tablecloths, pink banquettes, and low lighting complement a menu studded with Western dishes like honey spare ribs and chicken with spinach. The more intriguing items, like Phuket Talay fried rice ($12), take inspiration from the seafood-rich area of southern Thailand, for which the Dongparteeps' restaurant was named. It's layered with flavor and cooked just right. But "it's not real Thai food," says Na. For a restaurant not to assert the authenticity of its cuisine - now that's a twist. Phuket, 1856 Centre St., West Roxbury, 617-469-5200. - LEIGH BELANGER