No such thing as bland feelings about this treat
"It's hard to get vanilla ice cream right - there is nothing to hide behind," one person announced several spoonfuls into the tasting. There are no nuts, no chocolate chunks, and no cherries to obscure the flavor and quality of the ingredients. One summer evening, a group of seven, armed with spoons, tucked into six brands of real vanilla ice cream, all available at local supermarkets. Although manufacturers differentiate "vanilla" from the more custardy "French vanilla," and the more speckled "vanilla bean," many of the brands we tasted could have fit any of those types. Who would think vanilla ice cream could range in color from the stark white of Breyers to the orange-y glow of
The two orchids on the Häagen-Dazs container remind us that vanilla is the seed pod of a tropical orchid. The pod or bean, as it is commonly referred to, is long and dark. Split open the pod and you have a myriad of minuscule seeds, technically called speckles. Häagen-Dazs and Breyers have the least ingredients (essentially cream, milk, sugar, eggs). Other brands include corn syrup, annatto color (natural), and emulsifiers like polysorbate and carrageenan.
There was no clear winner - most brands received compliments. The only widespread objection was to the 365 brand. Five chose it as their least favorite. The big surprise was that our local Brigham's brand garnered no favorites. One taster recalled that her dad "worked at the soda fountain in his hometown pharmacy in Iowa. Vanilla was the only flavor he ordered his entire life." She picked the ice cream she thought he would like (it was Edy's).
After emptying their mini cups, our tasters piled their personal favorites onto slices of berry pie someone baked for the occasion. Add a warm slice of homemade pie to a scoop of vanilla ice cream and you won't hear any complaints. - DEBRA SAMUELS
Edy's Rich & Creamy Grand Ice Cream Vanilla
1 1/2 quarts for $4.50
Two people chose Edy's as their favorite. "Cool summer evening, refreshing and light, not too sweet." "Creamy buttery vanilla flavor." The "creamy" texture was mentioned by many. "Not too sweet," a plus for one, was disappointing to another: "Lacks sweetness." "It's creamy and rich but not my favorite." Another found it to be "palate coating creamy with a serviceable taste and not particularly attractive."
365 Organic All Natural Vanilla Ice Cream
1/2 gallon for $4.99
The comments about this brand were anything but bland. "Creamy filler for a cupcake, with no redeeming features." "Dark yellow, dull, not much flavor, feels generic." The color to one "looks promising, but the taste is non-existent, only the calories without the pleasure." "Artificial looking color and no distinct flavor. Disappointing." "Lime taste." And the color comments kept coming: "Color is yellow. This is bought from a supermarket's freezer." (They all were!)
Brigham's Ice Cream Vanilla
1 quart for $3.99
Brigham's blue and white packaging is practically synonymous with summer. Alas, the taste wasn't familiar to any and wasn't chosen as a favorite. The color garnered many comments on both sides. "Cool but not terrifically satisfying. The flavor is too mild, color like tainted snow." "Color is not too yellow, not too white. Sweetness comes through but I am missing the vanilla flavor." And finally from the poet in our midst: "White and plain and no extras. Where is the sunset? Where is the candle at midnight?"
Häagen-Dazs Vanilla
1 pint for $3.99
This American-made ice cream with a Scandinavian-sounding name got the nod from two tasters, one of whom buys this brand all the time. "The right combination of color, sweetness, and smooth texture, dense, sweet, and more tightly wound" than the others. However, the color was "too yellow" and to others "unattractive." As for the flavor, "Good but not delicate, the sweetness hits you quickly and then it is gone." "Not anything to remember. Not a knock-out like vanilla ice cream should be." Some thought the texture "creamiest of all" and compared it to "custard."
Breyers All Natural Ice Cream Natural Vanilla
1.75 quart for $4.50
Everyone used the same word to describe the color of this ice cream: "white." Some saw it as a plus: "Snow white, no artificial color. Small specks of vanilla bean inspire the aesthetics." And "white color with no imitation." But others described it as "bright white" or "neon white." "Not the ice cream I am used to. It's not sweet and looks bad." Only one called it "delightfully creamy," while another said: "Harsh vanilla, not creamy."
All Natural Ben & Jerry's Vanilla
1 pint for $3.99
If you have a guilty conscience about a midnight freezer raid for ice cream, you can at least feel good about something: Ben & Jerry's uses fair trade vanilla, the package explains, which means that growers get a fair price for their aromatics. Two people chose this as a favorite. "Rustic and creamy with a hint of mother," wrote one. Another was impressed by the "creamy consistency, soft tones, and visible specks of vanilla." Those specks elicited other comments: "Adds to the authenticity" and "visibly vanilla." But one person couldn't identify the specks and found the "color unappetizing with dark spots, sweet, not cloying." 