It's clear that Rhode Island has special clam chowder

TIVERTON, R.I. - This small state claims its own version of fresh-from-the-sea clam chowder. But Rhode Islanders aren't in agreement about how it should be made. That is, they're not as clear as the broth that defines their specialty.

They do agree on one thing: It bears little resemblance to the thick, creamy bowls we might call clam chowder. The Rhode Island version is a thin, clear broth with freshly chopped sea clams and potatoes, some butter, and simple seasonings. After that, it's open season. Some chowders are made with milk or half-and-half. Other chowder makers ladle clear broth into bowls but present milk or half-and-half in a little pitcher on the side. Those who do say it's in deference to the many tourists who expect a chowder to be white.

Evelyn's Drive-In here offers the real deal, and many locals boast that it's the best. Owned by Domenic and Jane Bitto, who bought the business from Evelyn Dupont more than 21 years ago, Evelyn's is still a simple seaside shack, "though the menu has morphed a little bit over the years," says Domenic Bitto. You can order clear Rhode Island clam chowder, but if you're not a regular, you'll probably have to say "without." Otherwise, the chowder will come with a couple of added spoonfuls of half-and-half.

Evelyn's makes 60 to 70 gallons of the clear, simple chowder every week. "I do know that once you've had Rhode Island clam chowder," says Bitto, "you absolutely love it. I don't know if it's because it's so fresh and simplistic, or it's because it's not as filling [as New England clam chowder]. But it's totally Rhode Island - and it's such a pleasure to have a cup of chowder while you're waiting for your meal, then still have room to eat."

Evelyn's Drive-In, 2335 Main Road, Tiverton, R.I., 401-624-3100, open through Columbus Day, www.evelynsdrivein.com.