Pickled fruit adds flavorful touch to dishes

Among fruits that hold up well to pickling are (clockwise, from upper left) blueberries, apples, watermelon rind, and peaches. (Globe Staff Photo / Pat Greenhouse)

Late summer and early autumn is pickling time. Cucumbers, green tomatoes, and jalapenos are favorites among enterprising canners, including Peter McCarthy, chef and owner of Evoo restaurant in Somerville. But he also loves to pickle fruit. In fact, you might see him at the Belmont farmers' market on Thursdays buying up cases of peaches, plums, and early-variety apples for his restaurant kitchen.

McCarthy and his crew started putting up jars of fruit more than a month ago when they packed away rhubarb, cherries, and blueberries, and more recently, grapes, watermelon rind, and cantaloupe. He makes the pickles to add an element of bright, sharp, sweet-tart flavor to the plate. They may be an accompaniment to housemade pates and other charcuterie, rich meats, and poultry. The chef likes to pair pickled cherries with venison; pickled blueberries, rhubarb, and dried figs with pates and foie gras; pickled apples with grilled chicken or pork chops; and pickled peaches or plums ("as long as they're not overly spiced") with a sturdy white fish.

Home cooks who have never put up a jar of pickles may be unfamiliar with quick or refrigerator pickles. These don't require sterilizing jars and their contents (that method allows foods to be stored unrefrigerated for long periods of time). Instead, because they're not shelf-stable, quick pickles soak in a vinegary brine in the refrigerator to prevent bacteria from growing.

This easy method is perfect for newcomers to the art of pickling. Quick pickles are ready in hours or days. Pickle brine is typically made from vinegar, water (or another liquid), salt, sugar, and spices. "The actual recipe depends on what's being pickled," says McCarthy. For example, he'll add plenty of sugar to rhubarb, tart plums, and his sweet-and-spicy jalapenos, but little to dried fruits. Spices vary, too. Standard vegetable pickling spices - celery and mustard seed, coriander, bay leaf, and black peppercorns - are too strong for tender fruits. Instead, he uses aromatic cinnamon, allspice, and cloves, and sometimes tarragon and basil.

Distilled white, cider, and white and red wine vinegars have good acidity, which is necessary for preserving. Rice vinegar offers the mildest flavor with low acidity. Using a lower vinegar-to-water ratio will also help cut acidity, especially when pickling tender fruits.

The method is simple. Heat the vinegar mixture to dissolve the sugar and salt and let flavorings steep. Pack the fruits into clean jars, and pour in the liquid. How long it takes foods to pickle depends on how large or dense the pieces are and the thickness of the skin (if it's left on). "It's mostly trial and error," says the chef. Ripe peaches, plums, and cherries will start to develop a tangy acidity after a few hours. A few days is all that's necessary for blueberries, grapes, and dried fruits. Apples and pears taste best after two to three weeks.

Texture is important, too. "If fruits are crisp, they should stay that way," says McCarthy. "If they're overripe, they'll tend to get mushy the longer they sit.

"Pickling is a great way to preserve peak season fruits and vegetables to use in the middle of winter," he says. By preserving today's harvest, he supports local farmers, and has delectable flavors at hand when the snow falls.