These reds give a little taste of Italy's charms

(Stephen Meuse for the Boston Globe)

Italy has contributed more than its fair share of majestic figures to world history. In this category Julius Caesar comes readily to mind, as do Michaelangelo, Galileo, and Enrico Fermi.

How many outstanding but perhaps not world-historical Italians the peninsula may have bred would be a longer list by far. My nominations for that list would include the novelist Alessandro Manzoni, actress Giulietta Messina, and the guy who invented tagliatelle with sage butter sauce, whoever he may have been. Each proof that a person - or a thing - need not be a colossus to be well worth our attention.

Applying this observation to the panorama of Italian wine provides some insight. In Italy, a handful of gem-quality wines vie on a global stage. The great Barolos of Bruno Giacosa, the barbarescos of Angelo Gaja, Isole e Olena's ceperello are all examples of these. But in Italy as elsewhere in the world, it is the little wines that shoulder the everyday burdens of lubricating the nation's business lunches and brightening its home-cooked meals - no mean accomplishments when you think about it.

The sheer variety and diversity of Italian winemaking is a challenge for anyone trying to get a handle on the subject, but consumers in search of value can find almost any style of wine they fancy here - from pale cool-climate pinot to lusty, sunburned negroamaro blends.

Early autumn seems to us a perfect time to experience the charms of Italy's little reds. We expect to be sipping them well after the leaves are raked and bagged - and stocking up on the tagliatelle. - STEPHEN MEUSE

Le Piane "La Maggiorina" Colline Novaresi 2004. With scarcely more body than a hefty rosé, this flyweight still manages to throw a juicy punch. Handsomely proportioned and shot through with some lovely black cherry-like fruit, it takes nicely to a chill. Perfect for warm early autumn evenings on the patio. Around $12. At Menotomy Beer & Wine, Arlington, 781-646-0889; Wine Bottega, North End, 617-227-6607; Bauer Wine and Spirits, Back Bay, 617-262-0363.

Guicciardini Strozzi Chianti 2006. Lovely, if modest, aromas of black cherry and roasted meat faithfully repeat on the palate. Shows bright, refreshing fruit, just-right acidity, and a pleasing dollop of earth. Drink with whatever you're having. Around $10. At Federal Wine & Spirits, Boston, 617-367-8605; Wine Cellar of Silene, Waltham, 781-890-2121; Acton Wine & Spirits, Acton, 978-263-9060.

Martilde Oltrepo Pavese Barbera 2006. Bright savory-earthy aromas; good concentration of juicy Barbera fruit and characteristically lively acidity; emphatically earthy flavors and solid fruit components; impeccably balanced; a sweetheart. Around $12. At Harkey's Wine and Spirits, Millis, 508-376-8833; Crushed Grapes & More, Lexington, 781-861-0291; Formaggio Kitchen, Cambridge, 617-354-4750.

G.D. Vajra Langhe Rosso 2006. At once sweetly fruity and savory, this is as beautifully balanced, satisfying, and delicious a little red wine as you're likely to encounter. You'll be glad you bought a case (or two). Around $12. Lower Falls Wine, Newton, 617-332-3000; Brix, South End 617-542-2749; Dave's Fresh Pasta, Somerville, 617-623-0867.

La Corte Salice Salentino 2006. Dense purple-black hue; somewhat jammy blackberry aromas and some herbal-forest floor notes; mouth fullish and ripe with cleansing acidity, good concentration, depth of flavor, and a bit of grip. A heftier, fuller flavored wine than others in this group. Around $12. At Panzano Market, Southborough, 508-485-8884; Shawsheen Village Liquor, Andover, 978-475-3636; Federal Wine & Spirits. - S.M.

Stephen Meuse can be reached at onwine@comcast.net