An eye- and mouth-opening experience
When children have a chance to play restaurant critic, they might describe a mound of pasta with cheese sauce as volcano-shaped, or compare a cheesecake to sugary socks. Being a restaurant critic feels like an adventure.
That's what happened when budding critics, ages 11 to 14, recently learned how to become more discerning diners through "Food Critic for a Day," a workshop at the nonprofit 826 Boston in Egleston Crossing. First, the eight students meet with teachers Ryan Rose Weaver, an editor at go2 media, and Jennifer Coates, an assistant professor of nutrition at Tufts University. They start by asking them to describe a Chinese sesame bun filled with red bean paste. The texture reminds T.J. Wasserman, 11, from Belmont, of a "Tempur-Pedic mattress." Eva Hernandez of Roxbury, 13, says the bun looks like "a deflated basketball."
After the first class, students visit restaurants around Boston, including Ashmont Grill, Beacon Hill Bistro, Bella Luna, Myers + Chang, UpStairs on the Square, and the Chocolate Bar at the Langham, Boston. Their assignment is to order dinner and review the experience. Restaurants donate the meals to the student and an adult.
Students arrive at the second class with notes and rough drafts. Sitting around tables in the sunny space at 826 Boston, they try to convey their experiences on paper. When they're stuck, Weaver gently prods them. In their reviews, the young critics see the dazzle and creativity that jaded diners who clog online restaurant review boards tend to overlook.
Sometimes, the food proves a challenge to describe. Kendall Clark, 11, of Dorchester, says Bella Luna's chocolate cake is so good that he has to invent his own word: "maxulfilu." "That means really, really, a million reallys good," he explains, grinning.
Later, on the phone, Hernandez consults her notes before she finds words for her favorite confection at the Chocolate Bar. "I liked the white chocolate strawberry shooter, the chocolate fountain, the vegan coconut pudding with pineapple, the chocolate caramel popcorn, the chocolate whoopie pie, and the classic opera cake," she says, stopping to take a breath. "Also, the German chocolate cupcakes, the chocolate fruit tart, the blondies . . . everything was so cool."
Kids seem intrigued by the atmosphere too. Henry Huntley, 11, a sixth grader at the Sudbury Valley School in Framingham, visits UpStairs on the Square. "When we got to our table," he writes, "there were beautiful and wacky lights above us and around us. Some lights were light bulbs with feathers, and another was a Campbell's tomato soup can with a light bulb inside it!"
For Noah Johnston, 11, of Dorchester, a visit to the kitchen at Beacon Hill Bistro proves almost as memorable as the mussels, steak frites, and chocolate gingerbread. "I saw about 10 people doing five things at once in the kitchen. I found [chef] Jason [Bond] cooking some kind of chicken. He stopped to give me a tour. First, he showed me his office, which was small. The kitchen took up most of the space."
Weaver and Coates design the class to interest children in writing about a topic that they might find engaging. "You have kids entering into what is generally seen as an adult sphere and giving their honest take on the experience," says Weaver. The combination of writing and fun fits right into the mission of 826 Boston, which is part of a national organization cofounded by author Dave Eggers to help students ages 6 to 18 learn writing through workshops and tutoring. The "Critic for a Day" workshop is free to students; most teachers volunteer.
Huntley's father, David, a documentary producer, says, "Henry was scribbling madly, then sitting in front of the computer and getting his thoughts together. It was a challenge, and a good bonding experience, because doing the reporting to tell stories to people is part of my work, too."
After sampling caramelized Kobe beef skewers and goat cheese ravioli, Henry is looking forward to his next meal at UpStairs - or anywhere else. His review says, "It fits that [UpStairs] used to be a theater because it was quite a show! Five stars!"
826 Boston, 3035 Washington St., Roxbury, 617-442-5400, www.826boston.org. 