Red, white, and bird

(Stephen meuse for the boston globe)

Thanksgiving's the holiday when the various schools of thought on wine and food emerge from the shadows to skirmish briefly. Wine columnists draw out pet theories like long knives. Loving spouses bicker. When argument fails, tables are pounded.

What goes with the food? We are in the post-turkey era. The feast in its iconic form (roast bird, bread stuffing, sweet potatoes, cranberry sauce) is no longer a given - although individual elements may put in a cameo appearance. With so many variables, it seems better to lay down some rules.

Keep it simple. This is a talky family holiday, not the annual gathering of the local societe des gourmands; no rare bottles.

Eschew oak. Oaky wines are tough to match.

Serve red and white. You might be surprised how capably a white can pair with roast birds and cuts of pork. It may even spark some conversation.

Make it lively. Acidity is a bonus, and wines with the capacity to refresh help keep you moving through courses.

Keep to scale. Zinfandel with 15 degrees of alcohol may be right with a spit-roasted wild boar, but if you're forgoing the big game this year, look for something that's sized right.

Some people think arguments about wine should start with appetizers; others wait until dessert. We have a theory about that too, but if you won't pound the table, neither will we. STEPHEN MEUSE

Ajello "Majus" IGT Sicilia 2007 Grapes in this white are grillo (75 percent) and catarratto. Pleasing floral and mineral profile with a citrus twist. Fruit has real presence. Around $12. At Andover Liquors, Andover, 978-470-0500; Ball Square Fine Wine & Liquors, Somerville, 617-623-9500; Wine Bottega, North End, 617-227-6607.

Waterbrook Columbia Valley Chardonnay 2006 Crisp apple/pear characteristics with notes of pie spice. No oak influence detectable in this white. Small scale, nicely proportioned cool-climate chardonnay. Around $11. At Marty's Fine Wine, Newton, 617-332-1230; Nine East Wine Emporium, Natick, 508-653-6221; Lukes Liquors, Rockland, 781-878-0226.

Chateau de Thulon Beaujolais-Villages 2007 Some bright fruit and a bit of that beety-earth note we appreciate in these wines. No trace of bubble gum. Round, juicy fruit and pleasantly firm acidity. The real deal in B-V. Around $12. At Vintages, Belmont, 617-484-4560; Brix, South End, 617-542-2749; Lower Falls Wine Co., Newton, 617-332-3000.

Porta Dos Cavalerios Dao 2006 Pleasant loamy aromas with barnyard elements. On the lean side, poised, and well-balanced. Around $11. Lower Falls Wine; Andover Liquors; Wine Press, Brookline, 617-277-7020.

Home Grown Farms "Family Harvest Red" California 2007 Drinkably streamlined California red blend. Persistently steady, fruit set off by firm acids and some earthy notes. Shows zin-like qualities, including a little briar. Nicely done. Around $12. At Kappy's Liquors, Medford, 781-395-8888; Lukes Liquors; Lower Falls.

Stephen Meuse can be reached at onwine@comcast.net.