Seasonal sparkle

(Stephen Meuse for The Boston Globe)

If an intellectual is someone who can listen to the "William Tell Overture" and not think of the Lone Ranger, then it may be that a genuine aficionado of sparkling wine is someone who can sip some small-potatoes bubbly while not thinking of Champagne.

It does take a certain amount of confidence - not to say bravado - to take pleasure in a $10 or $12 sparkler, and even more to serve one to your guests in a way that communicates genuine enthusiasm for the category. Maybe it's time we stop thinking of cava, prosecco, and all their fizzy kin as ersatz Champagne and start enjoying them for what they are: simple, non-vintage dated wines whose brisk acidity and rising columns of bubbles have an uncanny ability to stimulate the appetite and induce sociability.

Shopping for satisfying bubbly at no more than $12 can be challenging, mainly because a second fermentation in the bottle requires extra time and labor. This means that most of what we see at this price is made in vast quantities under conditions where economies of scale can be achieved. Sparkle with a believable artisanal pedigree - from whatever region - comes at a higher price.

Still, there's plenty of competition out there for your sparkling wine dollar. So this holiday season buy smart, pop that cork with panache, and try your best while topping off your guests' flutes not to hum the theme from you-know-what.

STEPHEN MEUSE

Mionetto Valdobbiadene Prosecco Brut, NV. Modest lemony aromas; crisp, lively fruit and more prosecco character than some of Mionetto's other offerings; simple, light, refreshing. About $12. At Whole Foods, River St., Cambridge, 617-876-6990; Gordon's Fine Wine, Waltham, 781-893-1900; Macy's Wine & Spirits, West Roxbury, 617-325-9200.

Cristalino Cava Brut, NV. Modest Cava-ish aromas; good, persistent, broad, apple-pear fruit character; dry and firm. most adult sip of the lot. About $11. At Bauer Wine and Spirits, Back Bay, 617-262-0363; Curtis Liquors, Cohasset, 781-383-9800; Vinnin Square Liquor, Swampscott, 781-598-4111.

Zonin "Special Cuv??e" Prosecco, NV. Slightly candied lemony flavors with substantially more body than the Mionetto; lively, appealing fruit and nicely integrated acidity. We sipped a lot of this in '08. About $11. At Martignetti Liquors, Brighton, 617-782-3700; Wine Emporium, South End, 617-262-0379; Warehouse Wine & Spirits, Framingham, 508-820-4900.

Jacob's Creek South Eastern Australia Brut Cuv??e, NV. Modest aromatics maybe, but an abundance of bright, high-toned apple-like fruit; refreshingly crisp; some pleasing mineral notes. About $11. At Brookline Liquor Mart, 617-734-7700; Martignetti Liquors; Hanover Wine & Spirits, North End, 617-723-3663.

Delapierre "Cl??ssic Seco" Cava. Attractive pale straw hue; intriguing citrus flower aromas; satisfying fruit-laden mid-palate; a trace of residual sugar rounds things off nicely; beautifully clean finish; excellent value. About $10. At Federal Wine & Spirits, Boston, 617-367-8605; Martignetti Liquors, Brighton.

Stephen Meuse can be reached at onwine@comcast.net.