These good things come in small bottles

(Stephen meuse for the boston globe)

In considering the world of little wines our goal is see how much quality we can wring from a dollar. We limit the price (around $12) and the quantity of wine in question is normally the standard 750ml bottle. From time to time we tout something presented in a larger format. The three liter box, for example, offers the equivalent of four standard bottles for about 25 percent less cost. A fine thing if you like the wine and enjoy serving from a carafe at table (as we do).

Buying more of something equally good is one way to tip the value ratio in your favor. Here's another: For the same price, buy less of something better. It's been a while since authentic Ports and sherries could be described as fashionable, but they have always made delicious drinking, especially in winter when their slightly higher alcohol levels feel welcome. True vintage-dated Ports and fancier sherries get pricy. Choosing half-bottles (375ml) brings their considerable charms well within reach.

Although the sweetness of a simple ruby Port makes it most appropriate for after dinner, sherry runs the gamut from briskly dry, lightweight fino (a tip-top aperitif) to nutty amontillado to creamy, fragrant oloroso (which can be sweet or dry). Sherry pairs delightfully, though perhaps not obviously, with a variety of dishes. Just keep in mind that authentic Port comes only from Portugal and real-deal sherry only from Spain's maritime southwest - and nowhere else.

And even if they're a bit unfashionable, it's not like you're going to wear them.

Lustau "Jarana" Fino Sherry Brisk, sea-air aroma; fully dry with a subtle salty element. Serve chilled with a bowl of fresh green olives. Around $10 for 375ml. At Esprit du Vin, Milton, 617-296-9463; Foodie's Urban Market, Duxbury, 781-934-5544; Marty's Fine Wine, Newton, 617-332-1230.

Bodegas Dios Baco Manzanilla Sherry Attractively yeasty nose; nicely dry with a note of apple rind. Nibble a dish of salted almonds. Around $10 for 500ml. At Lower Falls Wine, Newton, 617-332-3000; Table & Vine, West Springfield, 413-736-4694; Wine Emporium, South End, 617-262-0379.

Lustau "Los Arcos" Dry Amontillado Sherry Light amber hue and distinctive raisin-y aroma; fully dry, may remind you of an eggy flan someone forgot to put the sugar into. A warming treat. Around $10 for 375/ml. At Brix, South End, 617-542-2749; Lower Falls Wine; Marty's Newton.

Graham's "Six Grapes" Reserve Porto Uncomplicated bowl of bright red fruit and surprisingly perky acidity that's very easy to like; if you're new to Port, a good place to start. Around $12 for 375ml. At the Wine and Cheese Cask, Somerville, 617-623-8656; Gordon's Fine Wine, Watertown, 617-926-1119; Broadway Marketplace, Cambridge, 617-547-2334.

Dow's 2001 Late Bottled Vintage Porto A heftier, richer, more-textured Port experience with notes of date and orange peel; hints at complexity. Around $12 for 375ml. At Cambridge Wine & Spirits, 617-864-7171; Brookline Liquor Mart, 617-734-7700; Wollaston Wine and Spirits, Quincy, 617-479-4433.

Stephen Meuse can be reached at onwine@comcast.net.