(Stephen meuse for the boston globe)
Plonk of the Month
Message in a bottle
(Stephen meuse for the boston globe)
Every field of specialized interest has a vocabulary peculiar to itself. Among wine fanciers no term may be more insider than terroir - partly because it's a French word with no precise counterpart in other languages, and partly because its exact meaning is somewhat elusive. The term (the pronunciation is something like "tayr-wah") refers to the local conditions under which an agricultural product is made. For wine vines, this means soil type and composition, elevation, rainfall, temperatures, amount of sun - among other things. It's the "other things" that generate controversy. Do local wild yeasts contribute to terroir, and how about pruning techniques or cellar practices? Mule vs. tractor?
In the glass, terroir refers to a wine's capacity to carry information about its place of origin. This message is what wine writer Matt Kramer has described as the "whereness" of a wine - a signal experts use to distinguish the wine of one region, chateau, or vineyard from another. Sometimes terroir wines are set in opposition to process wines; the latter having been stripped of whatever local character by technical manipulation.
Some experts think only great vineyards have the capacity to express themselves in this way, but we respectfully disagree. It's true that in little wines the signal may be weaker, but terroir, even in modest doses, is always a mark of real character and worth talking about - in any language.
Barbi Orvieto Classico "Abbocato" 2007 Ripe, round, and fleshly; succulent peachy fruit; just off-dry with sheer charm; a honey. Around $12. At Harkey's Wine and Spirits, Millis, 508-376-8833; Martignetti Liquors, Brighton, 617-782-3700; Foodie's Urban Market, Duxbury, 781-934-5544.
Domaine de la Chanade "Les Rials" Vin de Pays des Cotes du Tarn 2008 Crisp and juicy with bright apple-pear fruit and lively acids; less aggressive than previous vintages we've tasted; a pleasing sip. Around $10. At Wine Press, Brookline, 617-277-7020; Concord Cheese Shop, 978-369-5778; Cambridge Wine & Spirits, 617-864-7171.
Berger Blauer Zweigelt 2007 Delightfully plummy number with just a trace of spritz; keep this in mind next time you have a crowd on hand; goes with anything and takes to a chill; full liter bottle. Around $15. At Marty's Fine Wine, Newton, 617-332-1230; Whole Foods, River Street, Cambridge, 617-876-6990; Wine Bottega, North End, 617-227-6607.
"I Rustici" IGT Sicilia Nero d'Avola NV Authentically drinkable $7 wine doesn't come along every day. Smallish and a little soft, but with genuinely pleasing black cherry-ish fruit, firm acids, and a nice little finish. Easy to like - and afford. Around $7. At Bay State Foods, Brookline, 617-232-2587; Harkey's.
Delas "Saint-Esprit" Cotes du Rhone 2007 If you need something a little heftier, you might opt for this juicy, syrah-enhanced CDR. Emphatically bright, persistent sour-cherry fruit, an appetizing package, and some structure to boot. Around $10. At Shubie's, Marblehead, 781-631-0149; Brix, South End, 617-542-2749; Salem Wine Imports, Salem, 978-741-9463.
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