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Short Orders

Sorbet at Seder? Yes, it's Manischewitz.

(WENDY MAEDA/GLOBE STAFF)
By Clara Silverstein
Globe Correspondent / April 1, 2009

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A scoop of Manischewitz blackberry wine sorbet from J.P. Licks does not count as one of the four cups of wine at a Passover Seder, but it does make creative use of a traditional part of the meal. The mauve sorbet tastes like an icy but milder version of a straight-up glassful. "It's not a palate cleanser," says J.P. Licks founder and owner Vince Petryk, who sells this flavor only for Passover and Rosh Hashana. "It's more of a palate coater, with that lingering, sugary taste on the tongue." The shop's ice creams are certified kosher, but the stores are not kosher for Passover. Petryk used to drink Manischewitz blackberry wine with his grandmother, who considered it medicinal. When he started developing a wine-based sorbet, he realized that a sweet variety like Manischewitz would retain its flavor better than something dry. Serve the sorbet straight up, or use it to turn a standard Passover dessert, such as sponge cake, a la mode. J.P. Licks, 659 Centre St., Jamaica Plain, 617-524-6740, and seven other locations around Boston, www.jplicks.com.