Versatile labels
Every year we drop in at an open house held by a very hospitable couple. They do some cooking, but much of what's on offer is brought by guests, including the wine. There's always a variety of reds and whites, some good and some not that exciting. All right, most of it not that exciting.
If we got to write the rules for bringing wine to a potluck, we might start with this: Give it some real thought, and if you need help, ask. The crew at your local shop is likely to be truly interested in helping you choose high-value party wines. Lacking that, then at least improve your odds by avoiding labels with a pickup truck, baseball player, or small mammal on them. Stay away from wines with assertive personalities. Matching food to New Zealand sauvignon blanc can be chancy. Step back from oaky chardonnays and high-alcohol reds. You're aiming for something versatile that will work with whatever Dame Fortune serves up.
Domaine du Tariquet Vin de Pays des Cotes de Gascogne 2007 Light, distinctly refreshing ugni blanc-colombard blend with a pleasing fruit-cocktail-like profile. A little lower alcohol makes it perfect for a hot-weather garden party. Around $12. At Cambridge Wine & Spirits, 617-864-7171; Lower Falls Wine, Newton, 617-332-3000.
Raats Family Original South Africa Chenin Blanc 2007 No trace of wood, but plenty of crisp, hefty chenin fruit and some intriguing minerality. A white that will work with lighter meat dishes. Around $12. At Federal Wine & Spirits, Boston, 617-367-8605; Winestone, Chestnut Hill, 617-264-0393.
El Coto Rioja Crianza 2004 Fine example of when light-bodied red wine doesn't mean wimpy red wine. Bright, sustained black cherry fruit, pleasing earth notes, and fine zip. A good bet. Around $12. At Brix, South End, 617-542-2749; Gordon's Fine Wine, Waltham, 781-893-1900. 