(Matthew J. Lee/Globe Staff)
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Flights of fancy
(Matthew J. Lee/Globe Staff)
With the buzz of the impending commencement ceremony in the air in Harvard Square last week, we couldn't help thinking back to our own graduation 10 years ago this month. There's a lot we don't remember about that week, (which may have something to do with a few too many shots), so what better way to relive the glory days than by throwing back a few for old time's sake?
It's pretty safe to say the smuggled plastic cups of warm booze we had back then don't compare to the new Ice Flights (three 1-ounce shots of housemade liqueurs, $12, below) created by Harvest libations director Eric Cross.
Made from frozen filtered water, and served on a bed of ice, the trio of "glasses" is a cute gimmick, but it also serves a function as well. "Liqueurs taste better when they're super cold," Cross says. "Especially in the summertime." Besides that, he adds, "it's kind of fun."
Most of the infusions Cross has designed here are thoughtful enough to sip casually, but you'd better drink up fast before the ice melts. The Blueberry Brandy (center) retains the heat of the brandy even at these low temperatures, and the fresh fruit component is strong and clean. Cross hits the blueberries with a superheated simple syrup to bring out as much of the flavor and color as possible. There's plenty of heat left over in the Strawberry Tequila shot as well, although the strawberry is subtle.
On the other hand, there's nothing subtle about the Pineapple Bacon (right). It's the same salty-savory-fruity flavor of a pineapple and ham pizza. Most bacon bourbons are based around the flavors of a BLT these days, explains Cross. "Me, I love the flavor of a charred pineapple on the grill." The Smoky Pineapple Sour (bacon-infused bourbon, pineapple, fresh lemon, sweet and sour, $10) is basically a barbecue in a glass. Ideal for sipping on Harvest's secluded outdoor patio.
Bringing traditional food flavors into the realm of liqueurs seems to be Cross's specialty. The Cilantro Gin (left) might be the most effective.
"To me, getting that bright green fresh cilantro flavor, that's spring and summer," he said. It's got a pure vegetable flavor and almost drinks like a clear salsa. Which is where the inspiration for the Salsa Gimlet (cilantro-infused gin, fresh lime juice, tomato garnish, $10) cocktail comes from.
"I was thinking, what do we think about when we think about cilantro? The first thing was salsa. I add a couple hot peppers into the infusion as well to give it a very subtle heat. Basically, the tomato is the garnish. We're just missing onion."
It pairs well with food, although we thought there was a touch too much lime juice distracting from the other flavors. Normally, it's chips at a bar that make you thirsty for a drink. This one works the other way around.
Back in college, we might not have appreciated the flavor creations going on here. But as they say, with age comes wisdom.
Harvest, 44 Brattle St., Cambridge. 617-868-2255.
© Copyright 2009 Globe Newspaper Company.
