Take a holiday from high-priced Americans
Despite a reputation for austerity, Church of England separatists who founded the Plymouth Colony in Massachusetts liked their wine and were eager to establish vineyards in their adopted country. Too bad those vitis vinifera cuttings stowed on the Mayflower didn’t find conditions agreeable. When New World vineyards finally took root, it was the Spanish who got the job done. Roman Catholics needed wine to celebrate Mass, and in territories subject to the king of Spain (like California), planting a vineyard was part commercial venture, part act of faith.
Eventually, a vibrant wine industry established itself in the United States. Today, wine is made in all 50 states, we’re told. Some aspire to and achieve world-class style; some others’ appeal lies mainly in a kind of eccentric regionalism. Lower shipping costs alone should give American wines a price advantage over imports, but it doesn’t seem to work that way. For whatever reason, the search for real wine made in the USA at $12 remains an arduous, though not impossible, task. Those among us determined to drink American, even locally, this Fourth of July holiday would do well to flag down one of the following.
Trevessia Massachusetts Unoaked Chardonnay 2007 Engaging cool-climate chardonnay that’s more Old World than New in style. Earthy elements add palate interest. Alcohol may be a half stop too high, but distinctly food friendly and appealing. Around $11. At Bin Ends, Braintree, 781-817-1212 and at www.trevessiawine.com.
James Arthur Field Winery California White Wine NV They don’t reveal the composition of the blend or the vintage(s), but the crisp, apple-like fruit is distinctly refreshing and not without character. Excellent choice for a party in 1.5 liter bottle. Around $11. At Berman’s Wine & Spirits, Lexington, 781-862-0515; Grapevine Travelers, Medford, 781-396-8463; Nantucket Wine & Spirits, 508-228-1136.
Palmer Vineyards North Fork Pinot Blanc 2007 Outstanding varietal aromas with some creamy notes and welcome dash of minerality; bright pear-like fruit. Around $9. At Vinnin Square Liquor, Swampscott, 781-598-4110; GPS Wine & Spirits, Brookline, 617-232-4100; Bin Ends.
James Arthur Field Winery California Red Wine NV Aromas of loamy earth; persistent red berry flavors, fine zip, and good balance. What you want from a value-priced California red blend. Around $11. At Merchants Liquor Mart, Danvers, 978-774-3540; Berman’s; Bin Ends.
337 Wine Cellars Lodi Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 A bigger, richer red with real cabernet character that doesn’t overreach; nicely scaled fruit showing some cut and texture. I’m thinking grilled sausages or a stack of sauced-up ribs. You? Around $11. At Federal Wine & Spirits, Boston, 617-367-8605; Gary’s Discount Liquors, Chestnut Hill, 617-323-1122; Kappy’s Liquors, Medford, 781-395-8888.
Stephen Meuse can be reached atonwine@comcast.net 