She knows the scoop
We all scream for it, but Jeri Quinzio writes books about it. A local food historian and the author of the cookbook “Ice Cream: The Ultimate Cold Comfort’’ has a new volume out, “Of Sugar and Snow: The History of Ice Cream Making.’’ We spoke with her recently about the evolution of everyone’s favorite frozen treat.
DEVRA FIRST
Q. You debunk several myths about the origins of ice cream: that Nero invented it by pouring honey over snow, that Catherine de Medici brought it from Italy to France. What’s the truth?
A. There was no one eureka moment. Scientists in Europe were experimenting in the 16th century and learned if you added salt to ice you could freeze something. One of the first things they did was freeze wine. It was one of the very popular drinks, a wine slushy. Shortly thereafter, confectioners started playing with the technique, trying to freeze other things. In a sense they were already halfway there, because they made drinks they could turn into sorbets and made creams and custards which frozen became ice cream.
Q. How has ice cream’s place in society changed?
A. For a very long time it was food for the rich. You didn’t have ice cream, or if you did it was a very rare treat. Now ice cream is seen as a very affordable, casual thing. It’s changed from something nobles ate to something kids strolling in the street eat.
Q. Did Prohibition and the Depression affect the ice cream business?
A. Prohibition was great for ice cream. Dad stopped on the way home and picked up ice cream for the family instead of stopping at a local tavern and drinking with pals. Even Anheuser-Busch started producing ice cream instead of beer. Then the Depression hit and Prohibition was repealed. Ice cream got a double whammy. People could now spend what little money they had on beer or whiskey.
Q. Your book includes several historical recipes. Have you tried many of them?
A. I’ve made quite a few. I love Emy’s recipes, but they’re a little hard to follow. [M. Emy wrote a book of recipes for flavored ices and ice cream in 1768.] Fanny Farmer’s frozen pudding is very nice, Mrs. Marshall’s cinnamon ice is very nice. I would skip the clam frappe. I did not try that.
Q. Some of the old flavors sound so current and cutting edge: truffle ice cream, for example, or cinnamon tobacco. They’re something you might find a pastry chef experimenting with nowadays.
A. When I read about a chef coming up with a wonderful new ice cream, I think, “Emy did that in the 18th century.’’ People do invent things for themselves, but others were generally there first.
Q. What’s your favorite local place for ice cream? Do you have a favorite flavor?
A. Like everybody else, I like Toscanini’s. I also like Christina’s. Toscanini’s has a very nice burnt caramel. I like lemon ice cream, which was once huge. You hardly ever see lemon ice cream anymore, and it’s really delicious and wonderful. I always have a hard time coming up with flavors. My next one is my favorite. 