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(Essdras M Suarez) |
Mead and you
And you thought you were digging deep into the past by drinking Prohibition-era cocktails. Those sort of pale in comparison to millennia-old mead, a drink whose story is as old as civilization itself.
There’s evidence of the production of this honey wine all over the world throughout history. In fact, many people think that the accidental discovery of fermented honey may have led to mankind’s first experience with intoxication somewhere between 5,000 and 8,000 years ago.
You can also thank mead for your honeymoon. It’s thought that the practice is derived from the ancient tradition of partying with mead for an entire lunar month after the wedding. Sounds better than a weekend in the Bahamas, doesn’t it?
And yet, for a number of reasons, mead fell out of favor. Most people have never even tried it. They’re aiming to remedy that at Henrietta’s Table with the introduction of two locally produced mead varieties on their cocktail list.
“When we got it in, I had never really tasted it or worked with it,’’ says restaurant manager Mike Powers. “It’s exciting to use an ingredient you haven’t worked with before. Especially if it’s something you don’t see everywhere.’’
The two varieties in question, a Dry Reserve and a cassis-flavored mead, come from a company called Green River Ambrosia in Greenfield. The Dry Reserve is a traditional dry mead made from honey, water, and yeast and aged for 18 months. The cassis is made with black currants.
“To compare these two is a completely different ballgame,’’ says Powers. “The cassis is easier to work with. It has a great flavor behind it and fruit in front. Compared to cassis liqueur this is all natural. It blows it out of the water. There’s not a lot of sugar or sweetness. [It’s] as bare bones as it gets for cassis.’’
The cassis shows up in the Mead Manhattan (Seagram’s VO, cassis mead, dash of orange juice, $9.50). Taking the place of vermouth here, the cassis mead gives off an extraordinarily dry dark fruit flavor. It’s a pretty eye-opening take on a Manhattan, however, and people accustomed to experimenting with new cocktail variations will find it remarkable. Although there is a learning curve. It’s certainly not for everyone.
The Dry Reserve mead is more challenging. It’s something of an acquired taste, and, like the cassis, is probably best served to someone with a passion for unique cocktails. It does, however, work well with champagne, which is why Powers is serving it in their mimosa (Dry Reserve mead, champagne, orange juice, dash of triple sec, $9.50; left). The Dry Reserve has a little carbonation to it and a lot of honey on the nose and a big yeastiness. It tastes almost exactly like a Hoegaarden or a white Belgian ale in fact.
“It seems as if it’s raw, right out of the bottle,’’ says Powers. It also makes for a much fuller body than a normal mimosa.
Powers is still looking for new ways to incorporate mead into cocktails, saying it’s not easy to work with. But going into the fall he plans on trying the cassis with brandy or bourbon to bring out the autumnal flavors.
“We’re not by any means done with them,’’ he says. “The exciting thing will be finding out what’s next.’’
Henrietta’s Table , The Charles Hotel. 1 Bennett St., Cambridge. 617-661-5005. www.henriettastable.com![]()




