Dogs, unleashed

Proprietor Alan Goldsworthy has one question for his customers. “How was the first bite?’’ asks the owner of On a Roll in Maynard. If a hot dog snaps or bites back, that means it’s a Kayem. If it behaves nicely, it’s Hebrew National. If the juices run down your chin, you’re locking lips with a Koegel. Once you select your pup in this cheerful, month-old hot dog shop, the fun begins. Choose between a Windy City, topped with onions, tomatoes, serrano peppers, a dill pickle, and bright green relish; or get saucy with a South of the Border, tomatoes, onions, relish with a dollop of guacamole and sour cream in a wrap. Goldsworthy’s favorite is the Motor City Coney ($2.85), the alpha dog of his hometown state, Michigan. Starting with a layer of shredded cheddar, he places a steamed hot dog on top, slathers it in meat sauce and laces on mustard, brown, spicy, or yellow. The Sweet Georgia chili dog ($2.85) made with cheese sauce, meat sauce, onion, and mustard is a close second. No matter how you top it, you won’t get bored. There are umpteen tail-wagging versions because, says Goldsworthy, “How you dress your hot dog is very personal.’’ On A Roll, 51R Main St., Maynard, 978-938-4966. KATHLEEN PIERCE