You see pasta, they see potato

The quotation marks on potato “ravioli’’ at 33 Restaurant are intriguing. This vegetarian entree ($18) certainly looks like handmade ravioli, but what appears to be pasta is two ultrathin slices of Yukon Gold potato filled with the finely chopped mushroom mixture called duxelles. The starch in the potato forms a natural seal around the filling, and the smooth potato texture provides a pleasing background for the intense mushrooms, a mix of white, portobello, shiitake, and “whatever mushrooms are in season,’’ says executive chef Gregory Constantino. Cooked with garlic and onions, the mushrooms are pure earthy essence. The oval ravioli come topped with a white wine sauce, arranged on a bed of garlicky spinach. A nice way to please the meatless diners at the table. 33 Restaurant, 33 Stanhope St., Boston, 617-572-3311, www.33restaurant.com. LISE STERN