(Stephen Meuse for The Boston Globe)
PLONK OF THE MONTH
Nature or nurture? In the world of wine, the problem is often framed this way: Take a stable, well-understood grape variety, plant it in places where the conditions of its flowering, fruiting, and ripening are divergent, and see what happens. In this formulation, the cultivar’s genetic material constitutes nature; while the exposure, soil, and climate of the vineyard provide the nurturing environment.
In the spacious vineyard that is the United States, an abundance of diverse environments translates to a dazzling array of expressive possibilities and an unparalleled discoverable range of interesting and appetizing wines. The sheer scale is something Americans who are unwilling to look beyond a handful of familiar commercial brands are likely to underestimate.
This July Fourth weekend may be an appropriate time to consider the extent to which our common pursuit of happiness depends not just on amber waves of grain but on an ample and varied supply of affordable wine — for which we needn’t look further than our very own vineyards.
Ravines Keuka Village Finger Lakes White Wine 2008 Featherweight tart-crisp vignoles-cayuga (hybrid) blend; delightfully breezy sip with a scant 12 degrees of alcohol and picnic written all over it. Around $12. At the Urban Grape, Chestnut Hill, 617-232-4831; Ball Square Fine Wine & Liquors, Somerville, 617-623-9500; Upper Falls Liquors, Newton, 617-969-9200.
90+ Cellars Columbia Valley Riesling Lot 19 2008 Pleasing floral and citrus aromas; nicely brisk and just off-dry with good riesling character and some plump, round juicy fruit. Save this one for the lobster roll. Around $12. At Brookline Liquor Mart, 617-734-7700; D&L Liquors, Waltham, 781-894-1999; Cambridge Wine & Spirits, 617-864-7171.
Charles & Charles “Volume II’’ Columbia Valley Rose 2009 (Ruby) Mid-weight pink with firm, hefty apple-cherry fruit and hopping acidity. 100 percent single vineyard syrah and, except for the weight, pretty Frenchy. Around $12. Bauer Wine and Spirits, Back Bay, 617-262-0363; Best Cellars, Brookline, 617-232-4100; the Urban Grape.
Guenoc Lake County Petite Sirah 2006 Upbeat, nicely balanced red with black cherry-like fruit and some fine zip. Will be versatile. Around $12. Blanchards Wines & Spirits Liquor, Jamaica Plain, 617-522-9300; Gordon’s Fine Wine, Waltham, 781-893-1900; Kappy’s Liquors, Medford, 781-395-8888.
Cline Cellars “Oakley FiveReds’’ California 2008 Complex cocktail of merlot, zinfandel, petite sirah, barbera, and alicante bouschet. Spicy zin-like aromas; good steady ripe dark red fruits with loamy notes and a bit of tannic grip. Nicely balanced and appealing. Fine for saucy ’cue. Around $10. At Fruit Center Marketplace, Milton, 617-696-5274; Martignetti Liquors, Brighton, 617-782-3700; Brookline Liquor Mart.
Stephen Meuse can be reached at onwine@comcast.net. 
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