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BOOK REVIEW

Ruhlman offers reasons for a cook’s habits

‘Twenty’ stirs insights, advice into its recipes

Michael Ruhlman latest cookbook, “Ruhlman’s Twenty,’’ mixes rigor, thoughtful tips, and real decadence among his recipes. Michael Ruhlman latest cookbook, “Ruhlman’s Twenty,’’ mixes rigor, thoughtful tips, and real decadence among his recipes. (DONNA TURNER RUHLMAN)
By T. Susan Chang
Globe Correspondent / November 30, 2011
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If you’re a food geek, you’ve probably heard of Michael Ruhlman and his ratios. Although Ruhlman has a pedigree of over a dozen books, it was “Ratio,’’ which came out in 2010, which brought his approach - and its promise of cookbook-free accuracy and smarter kitchen skills - to the mainstream. The 20 in “Ruhlman’s Twenty’’ are, at first glance, arbitrary. Some (water, salt, eggs, butter) are ingredients. Others (grill, roast, braise, fry) are techniques. Still others are more complex kitchen standbys (batter, dough, soup). And there is that first one, Think.

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RUHLMAN”S TWENTY By Michael Ruhlman

Chronicle Books, 368 pp., $40