Ruhlman offers reasons for a cook’s habits
‘Twenty’ stirs insights, advice into its recipes
If you’re a food geek, you’ve probably heard of Michael Ruhlman and his ratios. Although Ruhlman has a pedigree of over a dozen books, it was “Ratio,’’ which came out in 2010, which brought his approach - and its promise of cookbook-free accuracy and smarter kitchen skills - to the mainstream. The 20 in “Ruhlman’s Twenty’’ are, at first glance, arbitrary. Some (water, salt, eggs, butter) are ingredients. Others (grill, roast, braise, fry) are techniques. Still others are more complex kitchen standbys (batter, dough, soup). And there is that first one, Think.