Rieslings can express every gradation of sweetness or be completely dry. Pour some in your glass and inhale aromas like green apples, lime, honey, slate and a touch of petrol. (Subtle scents of fossil fuel might surprise the novice but are altogether tantalizing to the riesling enthusiast.) Like a refreshing squeeze of citrus to perk up a dish, acidity provides a counterpoint to any residual sugar left in the wine. It also provides structure to stand up to foods not normally paired with white wines. On a recent evening, a glass of dry riesling worked beautifully with lamb infused with Middle Eastern spices and braised greens. On another occasion, a sweeter style proved a lovely pairing with spicy Thai-inspired peanut noodles.