Review: Stone imperial stouts

Behold the power of the Stone Belgo Anise Imperial Stout.

Now, before we get to the point, I know what you're thinking: "Why is 99 Bottles telling me about an imperial stout -- the thickest, blackest, gooiest of beers -- this time of year?"

Fair enough. Winter is typically the time to be drinking these high-alcohol, warming beverages. But we have zero control over the release schedules of breweries, and Stone Brewing Co. -- that radical brewer from Escondido, Calif. -- decided to put out its new stouts in late spring.

So here we have them -- the 2011 edition of Stone Imperial Russian Stout and a brand-new variation, Stone Belgo Anise Imperial Russian Stout. Both are as black as night and as viscous as oil, and both boast 10.5 percent alcohol by volume. They aren't exactly sitting-on-the-patio-and-sipping-in-the-sun beers.

But that's exactly how my brother and I tasted these beers. (We'll get to the point about their power. Hang in there.)

We started with the "regular" imperial stout. Poured from a 22-ounce bomber into a snifter, the stout had an incredible nose. It gave off a complex, smoky aroma that brought to mind dark chocolate, roasted coffee beans, molasses, and hazelnut. A nice tan head caps a beer so black that not a trace of the bright sunlight penetrates it. The taste is burnt and smoky, with hints of caramel and warming alcohol on the swallow. More sweet than bitter, this stout is not as hoppy as some of its brethren -- Victory Storm King or North Coast Old Rasputin, for instance -- which is surprising, given Stone's reputation and track record.

The Belgo Anise variation on the imperial stout is another beer entirely. Brewed with Belgian yeast and anise oak chips, it has the same color and appearance as the original, but bring the glass within a foot of your nose and the difference is striking. Holy smokes, what an aroma. Black licorice dominates. Gone are the chocolate, coffee beans, and other scents. The smell of anise seed is overwhelming and domineering.

Oddly, there is not nearly as much anise on the taste -- thank heavens, because otherwise it would taste like a pack of black Twizzlers. The mouthfeel is akin to a gourmet root beer, and the beer itself is sweeter than the regular imperial stout. The oak chips are present too, with woodiness and warming alcohol on the finish. The anise returns at the end and lingers long after the swallow.

Now: Witness the power of the Belgo Anise Imperial Russian Stout.

My brother, before the Belgo Anise Imperial Russian Stout:

My brother, tasting the Belgo Anise Imperial Russian Stout:

My brother, post-Belgo Anise Imperial Russian Stout:

Now that is a powerful beer.