This beer gets its name from its classification -- Allagash considers it a quad -- and from its brewing process. It was made with four malts and four hops, and fermented four times. But whereas most quads are nearly black and opaque, this one is transclucent burgundy. It looks more like a Belgian strong dark ale; the lines between these styles are blurry anyway. There is no way to avoid pouring this beer with a huge head. You can more head than liquid even when you pour the beer slowly down the side of the glass. A sweet aroma of dark fruit -- plums, raisins -- emerges from the glass. The taste is deep and complex, with suggestions of dried fruit, spices, warm alcohol, and that distinctive Belgian yeast. It goes down exceedingly easily, which is dangerous for a beer that is 10 percent alcohol by volume.