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Review: Trillium Sunshower

Since 1986, Boston proper has been home to only three breweries. Harpoon Brewery is still on the South Boston waterfront and Samuel Adams has a development brewery in Jamaica Plain, but Tremont Brewery in Charlestown has long since closed.

Boston's newest brewery, Trillium Brewing, opened in March in the Fort Point neighborhood. Jean-Claude Tetreault and his wife, Esther, shoehorned a 10-barrel brewery into an industrial space on Congress St. The brewery's vibe, like that of neighboring businesses and residences, is edgy and modern. Trillium's simple flower logo stands out amid the grit.

sunshower.jpg Trillium markets itself as a farmhouse brewery in the middle of the city. The beers are unique, with yeast, hop, and barrel-aging treatments towing the line of traditional. Triullium can brew a mean pale ale (Fort Point Pale Ale), but it isn't their focus.

Sunshower, a recent release, is a "super saison" dry-hopped with Amarillo and Falconer's Flight. By name this beer should be citrusy in aroma and spicy in flavor. "Super" references the beer's 8.5 percent alcohol by volume.

Sunshower pours a the color of watered-down iced tea. There's a steady grapefruit present in the nose along with whiffs of dandelion.

The first sip produces lemon peel and white pepper. There's an initial IPA quality from the hops, but spicy Belgian yeast reminds you that this is a saison. The mouthfeel is light while the flavor is complex (more and more this is the sign of a great beer). The beer is dry, offering a crisp finish. The alcohol content is hidden well. This feels like a summer sipper, but it would be dangerous to treat it as such.

Trillium is open Thursdays and Fridays from 4 p.m. to 7:30 p.m. and Saturdays from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. for growler fills. You can find their beer on tap at the Publick House, Local 149, and Lord Hobo, among other local bars.

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