In a column to appear in next Wednesday's Food pages, we'll be highlighting a category we're calling extreme chardonnay. The common thread is the crisp, dry fruit, shimmering acidity, and mineral interest higher latitude chardonnay offers.
We've been tasting a number of French wines that fill the bill. Two surprises: the number of wines from the Jura - the region due east of Burgundy - in our market, and their very high quality.
They may be at their very best with an apres-ski raclette in an alpine chalet, but on a steamy New England afternoon they're a blast of cool mountain air in your glass. Stay tuned.