Picon, or Amer Picon, is a French caramel colored bitter aperitif made from dried orange, gentian root, and quinquina. Slightly off-dry and with the orange component dominating, it is sipped before dinner on ice with an orange peel or often consumed with a beer. In fact, the bottle I have is also labeled Biere, there is a Picon Club version which while similar, is more focused on use in cocktails and with white wine.
Invented during the mid-1800s and originally produced in Algeria, Gaetan Picon founded the first French factory (still in operation) outside Marseille. The original recipe was at 40% ABV, and has slowly been reduced to the 18% it is today. Perhaps it may be a shadow of its former self, but it's really quite good, even simply on the rocks.

Approximately $20 in a European supermarket, it is unavailable in the US, I luckily received a bottle from a kind friend returning from Paris. Pretty fun for a bartender, I could actually make a true Brooklyn cocktail 1.5 oz rye, .75 oz dry vermouth, .5 oz Picon, .25 oz maraschino liqueur, orange peel. This drink can very closely be approximated by using the Italian Amaro, Amaro Montenegro, as a substitute, and makes a fine spicy-citus and bittersweet winter warmer. In other words, maybe think of Picon as Bridget Bardot and Amaro Montenegro as Sophia Lauren.

I additionally tried a take on a Hearst cocktail 2 oz gin, 1 oz Picon, 2 dashes of Angostura bitters (because of the orange in Picon I omitted the normal addition of orange bitters). A citrus heavy gin- like Beefeater- works well with the orange flavors, creating a nuanced, flavorful cold weather drink for martini lovers. Also delicious was an ounce of Picon with a short pour of Ipswich winter ale and an orange peel. Clove and orange flavors pleasantly mix with rich maltiness, a perfect winter beer cocktail.

The French 75 is one of my favorite drinks- citrusy, a hint of sweetness, juniper and effervescent - delicious. In 1915 Harry MacElhone created a mix of gin, Champagne, lemon juice and sugar behind the stick at his famous Parisian Harry's New York Bar. The 'kick' of the drink was likened to being shelled by the French 75mm field artillery gun, and the name stuck. Original printed recipes use gin, but there is some debate that the drink is Cognac based (I'm sticking with the 1930 version printed first in the Savoy Cocktail Book).

Great cocktails are all around us, and not just at the very visible well regarded bars. It's certainly a great time to be drinking in Boston. Surprising places, that fly under the radar, have commitment to fresh ingredients and care in their drinks. So, speaking of the French 75, Haru restaurant on Huntington Avenue is celebrating the New Year with a Japanese-French hybrid, their Yuzu French 75. Best part? They will be pouring it through February for only $7- now that's an alliance I can get behind.

Yuzu French 75 1.5 oz Bombay Sapphire, .5 oz lemon juice, .5 oz simple syrup, .25 oz pure yuzu juice (East Asian citrus akin to sour mandarin- looks a bit like a small grapefruit), Champagne float, lemon peel garnish.

iStock/Blair_witch

A general rule I use often for punches (and drinks too) is 2 parts strong, 1 part sweet and 1 part sour. This is simplified, of course, but with slight adjustments for taste, really works. I think the best way to group punches might be by type or flavor profile rather than strength. A drink might taste "stronger" depending on the liquor used and relationship to sweeteners, citrus, and as you mentioned, ice. The first punch below, for example, is "strong" but very well balanced so does not taste overly boozy.

The following punch is a really terrific variation of a drink called The Gentleman. I would like to take credit for it, but both were created by my business partner
at Trina's Starlite Lounge, Beau Sturm. He made this punch with me recently for 50 people during a Christmas holiday event at the Urban Grape South End, with great success. -- Josh Childs

The Grinch Stole My Punch by Beau Sturm, Trina's Starlite Lounge

1.5 liters Bourbon
1 bottle (750ml) Belle de Brillet (pear cognac)
peels of 6 lemons
1 cup fresh lemon juice
1 cup superfine sugar

muddle lemon peels and sugar together
stir lemon juice with muddled peels and sugar until sugar is completely solved (creating oleo saccharum)
add booze & lemon peel mixture
stir again vigorously
add big ice cube*
top with 1 liter soda water
garnish with thin pear & lemon slices

* At the restaurant, we fill quart sized Tupperware containers with water and freeze them. A big ice cube melts slower, thus slowing the dilution of the punch.

My recent post for Christmas featured this recipe as an individual drink but it could also make a wonderful punch.

Natale a Padua
.5 liter Gin
.5 liter Aperol
.5 liter rosemary simple syrup
.5 liter lime juice
1 bottle of Prosecco
rosemary sprig garnish
large ice cube

I always loved New Year's Eve growing up, not only because my family was all together, but also we would play charades, do old puzzles and I got to eat way too many 'After Eight' mints. One might expect that I will regale stories with memories of some spectacular cocktail, but chances were my parents, aunt, uncle and grandmother were drinking wine, sherry or as the fashion in the late 70s, Dubonnet Rouge on the rocks. I could drink as much 'Bitter Lemon' soda as I wanted, though.

However, the absolutely best part, which I continue practicing today, was our tradition of welcoming the new year. For example: at midnight when I was ten, my father had me open the front door of our house letting in 1977 while he simultaneously opened the back door ushering out 1976. I encourage you to do the same this year with 2012 and 2013.

As for cocktails on the last evening of 2012, bubbles are in order, and 90+ Cellars has been challenging bartenders to come up with a sparkling cocktail using their Prosecco.

Tatiana Ciccone at Storyville has a delicious Pear Chai Sparkler:
1.5 oz White Rum
1 oz Pear Puree
.25 oz Chai concentrate
90+ Prosecco float

Happy New Year!

Padua is a city in the Veneto, Northern Italy. Christmas there must be as beautiful as I imagine, but I have never been, so this cocktail is my closest approximation. It features Aperol (from Padua) my favorite Italian bitter, showing rhubarb and orange. Combined with gin, citrus, rosemary and topped with Prosecco I think it makes a wonderful holiday libation.

Cheers, and Merry Christmas.

Natale a Padua
.5 oz Aperol, .5 oz gin, .5 oz rosemary simple syrup, .5 oz lime juice, 2 oz Prosecco

Add all ingredients, except Prosecco, into a shaker with ice. If you require more drinks, keep the proportions the same, add 1.5 oz of each ingredient for example. Shake vigorously. Pour Prosecco first into a Champagne flute or wine glass. Strain mixed ingredients into the same glass and garnish with a rosemary sprig.

Rosemary simple:
1 cup of water
1 cup of sugar
1 cup rosemary (on stems is fine)
In a pot on medium heat stir water and sugar until sugar is completely dissolved.
Add rosemary and cover for 20 minutes. Turn off heat and let sit until cool, remove rosemary and strain into squirt bottle or small pitcher.

Chad Arnholt is as good as it gets- both behind the bar and as a person. His last night was Tuesday behind the stick at The Franklin, he's leaving us for San Francisco, but before driving out of town kindly penned the following post:

'Tis the season

Decorative trees are being trimmed, blinking red-green lights strung about town, and dry air crystallizes my nostrils into ice dams. I have an 'ah ha' moment--its whiskey season! To be fair, for me whiskey season is year long, with booms in spring and fall (and summer). Yet, nothing can compare with the warmth of some barrel-aged wrapping around you like a blanket on a frosty winter night.

Perhaps it's obvious to say but whiskey is back! After years of idly collecting dust on back bars, witness to the fame of so many flavored vodkas and fill-in-the-blank-tinis, brown spirits have slowly muscled their way to the speedracks of our favorite bars, to be enjoyed alone or in cocktail.

Gone are the days when a bourbon or scotch would wait desperately to be mixed with cola, or pine for a crew of victorious lawyers to toast. Here are the days of the corner bar with 200 bourbons and brown spirits peppering cocktail lists nation-wide.

Scotch for My iPod

Scotch is perhaps the earliest ancestor to what we today call whiskey, and for over a century was eponymous with whiskey. By the time I arrived behind the stick around the turn of the millennium (and about 17 years into the venerable Josh Childs career!) whiskey was what you mixed with coke and single malt was what you gave grandpa. There were about three to choose from--a lighter one, a smokier one, and one that was sherry tasting.

Nowadays the booze industry rewards diversity across the board. New botanical blends and old tom gin recipes pop up daily, a dozen rums on the back bar seems normal, and bourbon, once paired down to a lone bottle in the well, comes in small batches, single barrels, high ryes, wheat-eds, and craft labels. In an era where consumers can access a million varieties of million of things right from their iPhone, its no wonder that drinkers would support the same sort of diversity. Now scotch may have been the last to pick up on such an obvious trend, but one could argue that it is better suited to offer variety than any other spirit. With a combination of geographic variables, regional style preferences, and blending, aging, and finishing techniques, scotch inherently offers range.

So lets look at a few burgeoning scotch trends that are probably worth paying attention, and in so doing maybe find a few holiday gift ideas for some latent malt drinkers.

Blended Whisky

Blended scotch isn't just the last result drink at a wedding reception anymore. For those who don't comb through British legal jargon on the regular, blended whisky contains a mixture of malt spirit and grain spirit (usually less then half malt) barrel aged for minimum 3 years. Robust malt flavor can be a little much for some drinkers. Blending in grain spirit gives a lighter quality to the whisky, and blending different malts attains a more balanced flavor. Lighter and smoother whisky can appeal to the less experienced whisky drinker, so, understandably this area has a lot of room for growth. AND blended whisky often sells at a fraction of single malt prices--double win!

New great entries from boutique producers Pig's Nose and: Compass Box: Great King Street offer good quality, value, and underdog inspiration. Some of those dusty labels are resurfacing as well. If you like Macallan but want to have money left for groceries, try Famous Grouse.

Blended/Vatted/Pure Malt Whisky

If you love the funk and spice that malt brings to the table but don't want to commit to all smoke, blended malts are the way to go. Blended Malt Whisky (historically called Vatted Malt) is a tradition that dates back almost two centuries. In the old days wine and tea merchants would buy single malts from different distilleries, mix them together, and throw their name on the label. While blended whisky has been ubiquitous since the 1800s, blended malt whisky has stayed under the radar. Today new labels are popping up all of the time, as there are plenty drinkers who want a more rounded experience than any one whisky can offer. Vatting is a true art of the palate, and sometimes mixing five whiskies can give you something that one cannot. Sheep Dip, Compass Box: Peat Monster, and Eades are all fun examples here. The folks at High West have been pushing further the vatting technique, with their Campfire label, which marries scotch malt whisky with some American rye and bourbon.

Independent/Merchant Bottling

Want to taste a single malt distilled at Old Pulteney that has been aged for 21 years but don't have a couple hundred dollars to spend? Want to see what port finish does to a Caol Ila? Houses like Gordon & MacPhail buy stock from the big guys or for that matter whoever is offering, and by aging it in their own style create a whisky that is unique to the merchant but traceable to the distiller of origin. Literally hundreds of products from independent bottlers are showing up in purveyors' books every month. Many of them are quite unique one-offs or value buys, and sometimes both. Some of them are new takes on old favorites that the whisky enthusiast can really geek out on. There are many, many independent bottlers out there. Douglas Laing, Gordon & MacPhail, Duncan Taylor, and Signatory do a stand-up job. A now extinct Blackadder bottling of Caol Ila changed my life forever.

International Malt Whiskies

Mimicry is the highest form of flattery. Scottish malt whisky is popular enough for others to take notice, and in turn fire up their own stills. India, Japan, South Africa, Australia, and yes, the US of A are some of the non anglo-celtic malt whiskies out there. In some cases international malts are exemplary counterparts to their Scottish buddies, deserved of a place in a flight of scotch--Japanese whiskies from Nikka and Suntory ring a bell. In other cases they are more indicative of local distilling styles, as is the case with some of the new malt whiskey brands on the US markets. Beech-smoked California single malt whiskey anyone?

In a climate where visibility is crucial, many American and international malt whiskies jump out in contrast to the ubiquitous bourbon and rye selections on shelves and back bars. McCarthy's, Wasmund's, and St. George simply offer something very different while maintaining the patriotic allure of drinking a native spirit.

Further, here in a new golden age of our industry, a drinker or barkeep has what seems like limitless options to chose from--a type of cordial for every course or different mescal for every occasion. And finally, crotchety old grandpa scotch has caught up with the times and got a facelift, and it looks pretty damn good.

If New Age spiritualists are right, the world's going to end soon- December 21st to be exact, but that's their interpretation. We've heard this kind of 'doomsday' thing before, of course, but here's the real deal: Friday ends a 5,125-year cycle called the 'long count' in one Mayan calendar, which scholars say simply ends the calendar and begins another (and who doesn't like a clean slate?).

I certainly plan on paying my mortgage and bills, but false prophets and their accuracy not withstanding, assuming the worst case scenario, I began thinking about what my last drink might be.
Being a cocktail blog, I should pick a clever craft libation, but if all bets were off, probably I’d drink a high end bottle of bubbly like Taittinger Comtes du Champagne which I normally can't afford.
Clearly I better consult an expert.

Beau Sturm, my partner in Trina's Starlite Lounge has, per usual, done the heavy lifting when it comes to liquor knowledge, gave me some insight. He tells me that historians believe the Mayans would offer a liqueur as an offering to the gods called Xtabentun (sh-been-toon)- an anise, fermented honey, Xtabentun flower, rum based spirit. Rumor has it they had some unique ways of imbibing it themselves to get booze in the bloodstream faster- sounds like an early rave. Xtabentun still is made in the Yucatan, and Beau got a hold of some (as my luck would have it) for a drink. He says he "loves the idea of a Mexican Sazerac because the Xtabentun is reminiscent of Herbsaint." He goes further regarding his naming the drink- "easy, because it's the coolest car ever made."
El Camino 2 oz Reposado Tequila, .5 oz Xtabentun, dash of Bittermans Mole bitters (think chocolate), no garnish.

Beau's 'doomsday' cocktail would be a bone dry vodka Martini, 3 olives, ice cold like a stock broker might drink. Why? Because the Fiscal Cliff (also his renaming of the cocktail) scares him much more than the end of the Myan calendar.

Thursday night what I really should do is stop by the great Central Square neighborhood spot, Green Street Grill. Owner Dylan Black has as much claim to the cocktail revolution in Boston as anyone. In fact, the roster of all-star bartenders who have worked with him, at his bar, is like the original Dream Team- and he's Patrick Ewing. While I could pick a variety of beverages from the present day five countries officially celebrating the end of the Mayan calendar; Mexico, Belize, Guatemala, El Salvador and Honduras- I'm still craving Tequila. Dylan has suggested my last cocktail, then, should at the very least be a classic, the Rosita 1 oz Blanco Tequila, 1 oz Campari, .5 oz each of sweet and dry vermouth, orange peel. He can read me well- an elegant, bittersweet Negroni variation, a perfect toast before the end of days.
Then, the following week, I'll go in and just have a beer.

Twelve drinks of Christmas would be logical and probably one can find similar posts all over the internet. So how about 17? Terrific bartenders from all over Boston and as far as Providence have been kind enough to help me out with quintessential and esoteric holiday drinks, I encourage you to visit these great spots and try one. If nothing else, one of these cocktails will be a welcomed remedy for a stressful over-commercialized holiday season.

Max Toste and Dave Cagle have been running one of the best bars around, period. Hugely underrated, I'm telling you, make a trip to Alston either at Deep Ellum or their new delicious sister spot, Lone Star Taco Bar. Max is starting off my cold weather holiday revelry with:
The Cricket .75 oz Cognac, .75 oz Fair coffee liqueur, .5 oz Branca Menta, 3 oz heavy cream, garnished with Mexican chocolate and a mint sprig.

Sam Treadway Backbar
A lot of amazing accolades have come Sam's way, and they are completely accurate. He'd probably rather be at one of his cocktail competitions (preferably South Beach) but for a creative holiday libation it doesn't get better than with this gentleman right here in Somerville. If you haven't been, head to Union Square and backbar asap.
Mexican Gin 1 oz smoked juiper infused blanco Tequila, 1 oz Aveze, 1 oz Cocchi Americano, juniper garnish.

Will Quackenbush Highland Kitchen
Will is terrific and Highland one of my all time favorites- plus his description is so fitting for the season: "While I never really intended it to be a holiday cocktail per se, I really love recommending it during Festivus because it hits all the right notes. Spicy, warming, evocative, curative, a bit inebriating....the name comes from the town in Vermont that my dad did his pharmacy residency in 1966. It's kind of what I was after...a tonic that some druidic or early Enlightenment chemist would devise as a tonic for the winter solstice blues. A tribute to a guy standing behind the counter for the last 50 years listening to people's comlaints about their aches and pains and doing his best to dispense cures that might abate them. Same church, different pew. Hope you like it."
The Bristol 2.25 oz Bulleit Rye, .75 oz yellow Chartreuse, .25 St. Elizabeth Allspice Dram, 3 dashes Fee Brothers Aztec chocolate bitters, orange peel garnish.

Fanny Katz Belly
Check out the new wine and cocktail bar adjacent to The Blue Room in Kendall, they even have a fire going outside- really!
Cedric Street Sour 1.5 oz Bully Boy American Straight Whiskey. .5 oz Amaro Montenegro, .5 oz Noilly Pratt Dry Vermouth, .5 oz honey syrup, .5 oz lemon juice, barspoon Allspice Dram.

Joy Richard Citizen, Franklin Group
Magazine covers, nationwide cocktail competitions, superstar. I really don't need to say more here than I've said before, but who better to share a holiday cocktail with?
Stinger Snowcone 1.5 oz Pierre Ferrand 1840, .25 oz Branca Menta, 1.5 oz Fresh Cream of coconut, over crushed ice.

Josh Taylor Westbridge
I simply love his drinks, and the warm inviting service and beautiful room here make the season even more festive. Plus, rumor has it they're doing a brunch New Year's day- I'm crashing. Here's his take: "a classic cocktail that already features seasonal ingredients, it gets a boost in flavor from warming spices."
Spiced Jack Rose 2 oz spiced Applejack brandy, .75 oz house grenadine, .5 oz lemon juice, dash of Pechaud's bitters. No garnish.

Bryce Mack Canary Square
JP's neighborhood hotspot is known for a great beer selection, but their cocktails are not to be missed- here's Bryce's take on the classic.
Canary Square's Spiked Egg Nog 12 large eggs, 2 cups sugar, 1 cup heavy cream, 4 cups whole milk, 1 liter Bourbon, 1/2 cup dark rum, 1 cup cognac, nutmeg

Ran Duan, 'The Baldwin' at Sichuan Garden II
A great story: Ran went away to school, returned to his family's Chinese restaurant (in the old Baldwin mansion by the way) and created a killer cocktail program. This spot is worth a trip, or a least a New Year's resolution for one.
Father's Advice 1 oz Bacardi 8, 1 oz Amontillado sherry, .75 oz Cynar, dash of Black Strap bitters. Dry stir with no ice, orange twist zest and discard.

Sahill Mehta Estragon
Sahill is a tremendous guy who puts his heart and soul into his drinks. He still flies under the radar, but make no mistake, he's one of the top bartenders in town. My New Year's resolution is to see him more.
The Unbearable Lightness of Being 1oz Averell Damson Plum Gin, .25 oz St. Elizabeth Allspice Dram, Cava, lemon twist garnish.

Nate Hayden Beehive
Don't let the popularity and size of the Beehive fool you, they are serious about their beverages- check out the Champagne list for example. Nate makes my kind of cocktails and this one is no exception. Go hang out with great drinks and jazz when in the South End over the holidays.
Kentucky Orchard 2 oz brown butter infused Bourbon, .5 oz St. Elizabeth Allspice Dram, 3 oz apple cider.

Lou Saban Oak Long Bar + Kitchen
Copley during Christmas- yes, and the newly revamped Oak Room with Lou behind the stick. An ideal time-out from holiday shopping, or in my case, it is holiday shopping.
Vulgar Bittered Sling 3 oz Maker's Mark, .75 oz apple cinnamon simple syrup, one dash each of Regan's orange bitters, Fee Brothers whiskey barrel aged bitters, apples with cinnamon garnish.

Manny Gonzales Saloon
Cold weather, holiday revelry, this room is ideal for the season feeling like an elegant club from a century ago. For me, two added bonuses- the cocktails are top notch and I live nearby.
Spiced Old Fashioned muddled raw sugar cube with muddled lemon and maraschino cherry, .25 oz Allspice Dram, 2 dashes Peychauds Bitters, 2 oz Sons of Liberty Pumpkin Spiced Whiskey

David Mangiantine Farmstead
Farm to table in Providence, RI with owner and James Beard finalist Matt Jennings? Can't use the sleigh, but sounds like a roadtrip is in order. The reward being amazing food with a delicious holiday spiced cocktail? Sounds like a new tradition.
The Augustus 1 oz Bulleit Rye, .75 oz Canton Ginger liqueur, .25 oz Allspice Dram, soda, lemon twist.

Natalie Wentworth JM Curley
Beautiful, funny, talented- man, she can make me anything she wants. A delicious Cognac drink- yes, please!
Christmas in Hollis 1.5 oz Hennessy VSOP, .5 oz King's Ginger liqueur, .5 oz Pierre Ferrand Dry Curacao, apple ginger garnish.

John Henderson Scholar's
Believe me, I have seen it all downtown, and patiently waited. There is a lot happening now in the area including John and the terrific cocktail program at Scholar's. A hot drink after an afternoon on the Frog Pond's ice rink sounds seasonally ideal.
Mez-Cafe 1.5 oz Del Maguey Crema de Mezcal, 1oz coffee liqueur, 4 oz hot coffee, layer with whipped cream and dust with chili powder.

Bob Mccoy Eastern Standard
Ok, they have quite literally set the standard. Bob kills it, with his holiday take on a classic a Sex Pistols reference? Awesome. Instead of carols I'm listening to 'Submission' right now. Bob says:
"Inspired by the traditional holiday beverage Tom and Jerry, this drink is named after the legendary couple Sid Vicious and Nancy Spungen.  Iconic symbols of the punk rock movement; they represent a style that, like this drink, is stripped-down, fast-paced, and effective.  The drink itself is rich with the oak-aged flavors of vanilla and honey and enhanced by sweet cream and winter spice."
Sid and Nancy .75 oz Plantation Grande Réserve 5yr. Rum, .75 oz Pierre Ferrand 1840 Original Formula Cognac, .75 oz spiced syrup, steamed half and half.

The Ashmont Grill has been a neighborhood staple in Dorchester's Peabody Square since opening in 2005. I'm thinking of having the 'train wreck fries' and a great cocktail- awesome. Here, a winter take on a classic summer libation- I can keep pretending it's warm outside, right?
Winter Warmer Daquiri by Heath Davis 2 oz Bacardi 8, .75 oz lime juice, 1 oz pepper/cinnamon syrup, dash of Bitterman's Hellfire bitters, lime garnish.

Adam Lantheaume is a busy man. I arrive an hour before his shop, The Boston Shaker, opens and he's in the process of receiving a large order from Associated Buyers out of Barrington, NH. They feature mixers, sugar cubes, and other specialty items that Adam will need for the busy holiday season ahead. This process shows clearly that for any bar or cocktail related items his store is the place to go- and we're lucky it's nearby in Davis Square. If you haven't been, it's a must, if you have, well, you know you'll need something else for the holidays. I'm buying a punch bowl for my brother and some bar tools for friends.

Let's rewind. Adam worked in the technology industry years ago and the famed
B-Side Lounge was perfectly (and prophetically, it turns out) situated between his work and home. He started out drinking spirits on the rocks, and was gradually introduced to cocktails by the great staff there. To duplicate some of those drinks on his own, Adam would go to some of the big retail home goods stores, and buy cocktail shakers and related items that inevitably broke or didn't quite work. In response, legendary bartender
Dave Cagle (now at Deep Ellum) bought him a decent bar spoon and Boston Shaker at Restaurant Depot, and the rest is history. Adam was determined to find these items and offer them to other enthusiasts. He began purchasing bitters from online sources, and bars would order through him- the seeds had started to grow.
LUPEC (Ladies United for Preservation of the Endangered Cocktail) threw a party at the now shuttered Grand in Union Square, and Adam eagerly attended. Timing is indeed everything, he convinced the owners to lease him a portion of the store to sell all things cocktail. It has been a pleasure, as I have always been a fan, to watch as he has grown from the corner of another shop, into the wonderful retail store he owns today. Adam now also has an impressive online store with completely redesigned website. He regularly (and quickly, I might add) sells out cocktail classes. He revels in the process, directing customers with ease, from to a present for a friend or new specialty item for an industry veteran working a top bar.

Biitters, shakers, complete sets of tools, books, mixers, soda systems- I think you can tell I love this place. An insider tip: go in to the store with no real agenda, ask questions, talk cocktails. You'll leave with plenty of goodies and new ideas. That's the fun after all, where better to fulfill all your holiday cocktail shopping needs? If you're like me, you'll leave with plenty of cheer and stuff for yourself too.

The Boston Shaker
69 Holland Street, Somerville, MA, Davis Square
Between now and the New Year M-Sat 11am-8pm, Sun 11am-6pm

Upcoming events:
Drambuie/Bacardi Thursday December 20th 5pm-7pm
Grand Ten Distillery Friday December 21st 5pm-7pm

I am not a heavy drinker, I swear. But what do people think when I meet up to taste Scotch with Catherine Schiff who represents, among other spirits, Cutty Sark first thing on a Monday morning? Most of us are considering a second cup of coffee and I'm making a Blood & Sand? Crazy. Cutty Sark leapt onto the scene in 1923. Light, subtle smoke, easy to drink, the brand was first 'imported' during prohibition via the Bahamas by Captain Bill McCoy a bootlegger of impeccable integrity. Cutty Sark was one of the famed spirits dubbed
'The Real McCoy.'

Today the malts in the blend are primarily selected from the famed Speyside region of Scotland- central components being legendary The Glenrothes and The Macallan. The Whisky ages in American oak casks that have previously been used for Oloroso Sherry, rounding out the final blend. Cutty is an excellent starter Scotch, and perfect for cocktails adding a smokey rich character without being overbearing. Great history is carried on but any stuffy old scotch images are pushed aside by the young and talented Kirsteen Cambell (pictured here), master blender since 2010. All this with a low price tag.

I know I'm a year off, but the Scotch that most likely would have been used to create the Blood and Sand cocktail was similar in style to Cutty and also geared to the American market. Made for the 1922 movie of the same name, starring Rudolph Valentino (Rita Hayworth was in the remake- thanks for the correction Charles)- it doesn't get much better than that. Improbable ingredients mixed together
sound questionable at best but the drink is great- almost tropical in nature.

Blood and Sand: .75 oz Cutty Sark, .75 oz Cherry Herring (cherry brandy), .75 oz orange juice, .75 oz Sweet Vermouth. Shake all ingredients with ice and strain into a cocktail glass. Cherry garnish.

Try this too, my bartending colleague Thomas Tietjen's take on the classic Rob Roy.
Roberta Roy: 2 oz Cutty Sark, .75 oz Dry Vermouth, .5 oz Luxardo Maraschino. Stir ingredients with ice, strain into a cocktail glass, cherry garnish.
I really like the balance of malt, smoke, cherry liqueur.

Prohibition, of course, is far distant both literally and figuratively from our present day cocktail drinking times. How different would our industry be if it had never happened?
Probably safe to say certain shots and blue drinks of the '80s would not have been born- and I might not be writing this post. But, for 13 years there were no legal drinks sold or consumed in the United States (a side note- distilleries like Four Roses continued on legally for 'medicinal purposes,' my kind of cure). What remains is a uniquely American legacy, and we have finally made up for lost time.

In celebration of its end, a toast tomorrow evening is absolutely mandatory wherever you are. Perhaps at 9:00pm, the 21st hour, celebrating the 21st Amendment to our Constitution. On December 5th, 1933, Utah was ironically the tipping vote, and as they were the 36th state to ratify, at 5:32pm Roosevelt immediately put repeal into effect stating "what America needs now is a drink."
I could not agree more.

I don't know much about grappa except that it's often rough and tumble, prove your bravery type of shot after dinner. Like so many things, boy am I wrong.
Patrick Gaggiano, colleague, manager and bartender at Trina's Starlite Lounge (protecting myself with an Irish-Italian American) and I sat down with
Francesco Calderaro of Winebow, representing Nardini spirits of Northern Italy. He's from Sicily, by the way, so I got information directly from the source.

First of all, grappa is made from distilling the fermented pomace (skins and seeds left from table wine production), or 'vinaccia' in Italian. The substance is a solid, but spongy and delicate- unlike brandy which is distilled from fermented grape juice. That difference makes it inherently rougher, but also gets closer to the essence of the grapes. Nardini utilizes both pot and continuous stills, a vacuum sealed steam still let's them distill at lower temperatures first, extracting the most possible fragrance and flavor from the pomace.
Bortolo Nardini arrived in Bassano del Grappa in 1779 (about 75km northwest of Verona), traveling from Trentino. The headquarters are located in the original Grapperia on the bridge of the town, operated by the seventh generation of the Nardini family. Focus is, and always has been on quality. Many producers rely on spectacularly ornate glass bottles to sell product- Nardini is about what's inside and prefers classic simple elegance and tradition. Their spirit label even continues to include the old reference to Italian 'water of life' (eau de vie in French)- Aquavite. Certainly grappa did have humble beginnings as a by product of wine making, but if as many producers showed this kind of care it would be discussed in more reverent tones like Cognac.

The Grappa Bianca, is crystal clear, coming directly from the still with no barrel aging, much like a blanco Tequila. Pinot Griggio, Tocai, and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes are harvested between the Brenta and Piave rivers- premium grapes make a premium spirit. This idea is much like my chef friends who insist on only cooking with a wine they would also like to drink. 50% alcohol is obvious, but there is a generous floral nose from the grapes. Tasting it's more gentle, thanks to quality distillation- lemon, tea, honeyed flavors- an excellent digestif after dinner or mixer in, yes, cocktails. Check out ilovegrappa.com for an extensive history of grappa and some terrific cocktails by the legendary Dale Degroff. Think of using it as an alternative to brandy or pisco in drinks.

The Grappa Riserva has been aged for five years in Slovonian oak, giving it a pale straw/gold coloring and enhancing the honeyed character with vanilla. It seems rounder, softer and more delicate; less of a shot, more of a sip in a snifter. Think Madonna's 'Lucky Star' for the Bianca, 'Like a Prayer' for the Riserva. Yup, I said it.

Grappa alla Ruta is the Bianca that has been infused with Rue grown in the foothills surrounding Lake Garda for a year. The fragrance and flavor is distinctively herbal and I'd imagine it is one of those things you love or hate, not much in between, like Cilantro. I love it by the way. The Ruta would be a great substitute for Chartreuse- think Rye 1.5oz, Nardini Grappa alla Ruta .75oz, and Maraschino Liqueur .5oz, dash of orange bitters (a take on the Green Point cocktail).

Grappa alla Mandorla is also the Bianca, this time with bitter almond essences rounded with distilled cherry juice. It's like brandy meets amaretto- intense, bitter with slight sweetness- delicious! Try this:
Agro di Gaggiano: Nardini Mandorla 1.5oz, lemon juice .5oz, simple syrup .5oz, 1 egg white, topped with orange and Angostura bitters. Dry shake (no ice) the Nardini, simple and egg white vigorously. Add lemon juice, ice and then re-shake. Strain into a coup or wine glass, top with bitters. If you are afraid of the raw egg you can substitute pasteurized egg white which is widely available at grocery stores.

Finally, if you've gotten this far, I have to give a nod to Nardini's Tagliatella. It was created accidentally a century ago when the distillery sold products on tap. As various handles were used, they had a propensity to loosen and drip- waste not, want not- they barreled the drippings. Like the pasta 'Taglia' is a 'cut' or appropriately here a cocktail of all their distillates. It was also what people were drinking to save a little money- I like this idea of a hugely popular cocktail of the people- kind of the original bar mat shooter. Over the years, of course, the technique changed to be an infusion of grappa, cherry juice, orange and other aromatic components. Fruity but very well balanced, I tried it as a sweet vermouth substitute in a Manhattan- the bitter-sweet cherry really stands out- fantastic!
Even better was Francesco's analysis: "it is a holiday in a bottle!"

I know, I know, what gives? Which is which? Now I'm confused, but basically we've got two versions of the same drink- both old fashioned, but one even older than the other.
I think I hear Bill Belichick muttering "it is what it is."

Simply in the drink, we’re talking whiskey (or maybe even brandy), sugar, bitters, lemon peel- that's it. Famed cocktail historian David Wondrich notes that as far back as 1800 it was in vogue, and if one ordered the original “Cock-Tail” it would have been served. But by the 1870s you would have to call it an “Old Fashioned” as it had been around for the better part of the century. In the 1880s, the drink was with bourbon at The Pendenis Club in Louisville, Kentucky. After repeal, the drink began to change by adding muddled fruit (orange and cherry), becoming the version people are most familiar with today.
So, the 1800 Old Fashioned became even more so- the Old Fashioned Old Fashioned.

Popular culture and all-things-cocktail these days has brought it roaring back- my favorite reference might be the following video clip (mostly because Don Draper uses his fingers as the strainer).

Old-Fashioned Old Fashioned 1855
Place a sugar cube in the bottom of a double rocks glass
Add 2 dashes Angostura bitters
Add splash of soda
Muddle the sugar, bitters, soda until a syrup is formed
Add ice
2 oz Rye
Stir
Lemon peel garnish optional

Old Fashioned 1955
Place a sugar cube in the bottom of a double rocks glass
Add 2 dashes Angostura bitters
Add splash of soda
Add 1 orange slice, 1 maraschino cherry
Muddle all ingredients thoroughly, remove orange rind with a bar spoon
Add ice
2 oz Bourbon or Rye
Stir
Garnish with a fresh orange and cherry

The restaurant and bar business is one of the last apprentice systems. One can start at an entry level job and work their way up- it's what I did. I am continually impressed, being surrounded by talented people who perform at high levels wearing many hats with a variety of duties.

Take John McElroy. When we first met, he was valeting cars at No. 9 Park. Flash forward, he's one of the terrific staff behind the bar at Russell House Tavern. I am thankful for him and this industry- who better to whip up a couple of Thanksgiving drinks?

Nana's Rocker 2oz Laird's Apple Brandy, .5oz Amaro Montenegro, .75oz Pedro Ximenez Sherry, .5oz lime juice, 1 dash Peychaud's bitters, shaken and served on the rocks. While not generically Thanksgiving (no cranberry for example), this drink is perfectly seasonal- the rich sweet sherry balanced by citrus and alcohol of the apple brandy. Amaro Montenegro (the most popular bitter liqueur in Italy) has a slightly bitter and orange component that adds an almost mulled wine spicy-sweet quality. Delicious.

Farwell and Adieu 1.5oz Vida Mezcal, 1.5oz Privateer Amber Rum, .5oz Benedictine, .5oz Drambuie, stirred and strained in a coup glass. Smoke, vanilla, molasses; there's a lot going on here. The drink even nods to December, with Benedictine and Drambuie giving a Christmas spice character- sip this by the fire.

The Hawthorne turns one on Wednesday November 21st, 6-9pm, the night before Thanksgiving. What better way to celebrate than with a cocktail reception and fundraiser? Join Jackson Cannon, Nicole Lebedevitch and the whole Hawthorne crew as they give thanks to:
Lovin’ Spoonfuls, Bully Boy rum, Bols Genever, siblings ES and ICOB, designers Alison and Stephen Sheffield, MS Walker and most of all their customers and regulars (I'm secretly hoping Jackson is wearing a pilgrim costume- wow, over-sharing).

Delicious snacks, cocktails, beer and wine will be flowing in true Hawthorne fashion.
They're even highlighting drinks with song names- you might be drinking a Phil Collins while listening to Phil Collins. Now that's sus-sus-sussudio.

$50 (portion of proceeds goes to Lovin' Spoonfuls) tickets are available on Eventbrite.
The Hawthorne is located at 500A Commonwealth Avenue in Boston's Kenmore Square.
 

You can tell a lot about a bar when you order a water first. Sometimes, with graceful kindness, it appears with a smile and "please let me know if I can do anything else for you." Emerald Lounge at the Revere Hotel certainly has a late night clubby feel, but on a snowy afternoon that level of service felt more like a comfortable neighborhood bar.
Thank you Tyresse.

Equally as friendly and welcoming, is Emerald’s beverage director, Teodora Bakardzhieva, an industry veteran who has worked bars and clubs from the now shuttered Club Trio to Locke Ober to Mantra. She slips behind the bar and as quickly appears her Fig Sidecar, featuring fig infused vanilla cognac and Pineau des Charantes (fresh press grape juice where fermentation has been stopped by adding brandy). The drink is rounded out with lemon juice and a terrifically over-the-top gold sugared rim. Sure, a nod to late night club antics, but it really works. Balanced, rich caramel and fig flavors cut by lemon acidity.
Sometimes you have to go big or go home.

After a pleasant moment chatting with Bryan Barbieri the hotel's PR director, snowing, cold, we decide it's time for bourbon. Teodora had already sensed I needed a winter warmer- her Fallen Angel- with Angel's Envy bourbon (I need to do a future post on this delicious whiskey), Amaro del Capo (a bitter from Calabria- not sweet but shows orange and citrus), and honey syrup. The Angel's Envy rests for a few months in Port casks, so it's rich caramel, vanilla spice of the bourbon paired with an almost maple syrup like quality. This, the bitter and honey, make a wonderful cold weather reviver.

Emerald is highly designed from the center piece stainless sculptural work, mass art student designed uniforms, to the hidden Ruby Bar (you have to stumble upon it). The sound system is unprecedented and the room is slick- you could be in Vegas, baby. But it's all about service, as Teodora mentions "often clubs will stop serving craft cocktails at 10:00 turning to vodka sodas, etc." Not here: jiggers, fresh ingredients, care.
I can only imagine how busy they are at 1:00am on a Saturday, so, more my speed, maybe meet me here on a Tuesday or Wednesday after work.
Now that's a date.

Working the bar Bobby Flay's Mohegan Sun, it almost didn't happen. Kevin was about to move to New York City, but luckily for us, heavy recruiting swayed him to Boston. A leap of faith landed him squarely on his feet at the new (although it will celebrate one year in December), popular, jm Curley downtown.

This kid is serious about cocktails, but maybe it's his family's sports bar, where he grew up working that has rounded out his style- he puts in front of you what you want to drink. Friendly, gracious, low key, accommodating. Kid- wow, I could, in fact, be his father. Ouch.

Anyway, I stopped by the other night and tried a couple drinks- he always features a Seasonal Collins, for Autumn it's 1.5 oz Greylock gin, .5 oz rosemary simple syrup, 1 oz lemon juice with 8 muddled Concord grapes and a rosemary sprig. Deliciously refreshing.
For his Zen Den he thoughtfully credits Jeffrey Morganthaler from Portland, OR for inspiring his 5 spice rum. 1.5 oz Chinese 5 Spice Goslings, .5 oz Pierre Ferrand Orange Curacao (orange liqueur) .5 oz ginger simple syrup, .5 oz lime, orange zest.
To me the 5 spice is perfectly fall, I love the idea of contrast with a seemingly summer libation that works so well on a chilly Boston evening.

Kevin Mabry's shift drink? A pint "of whatever's hoppy on tap" (check his hop tattoo) and, you guessed it, a shot of Fernet. Maybe young and up and coming, but that is old school- I'll raise a glass with you anytime my friend.

Mariposa in Spanish is butterfly. Indeed the liqueur kind of flutters (sorry) around the idea of Tequila being made from Tequila, Vodka, agave and rose water. Even the bottle is softer. Purists might find issue here, but I have to say that it is well made and tasty (Heaven Hill Distillery also makes Lunazul Tequila, Rittenhouse Rye and Elijah Craig Bourbon).
Non-cloying sweetness, spicy floral, almost orange peel citrus notes makes it a good substitute for Curacao or other orange liqueurs.
Enter the lovely Erin Surprenant: Tequila and all-things-agave lover, also happens to fittingly be the general manager of Masa in the South End. Who better to drink Mariposa cocktails with? I suggested an ounce of Mariposa with sparkling wine; her staff split 50-50 on it, the results coming down to personal preference. I better leave this up to Erin.
Below is their standby Margarita, which precedes her time; and then a new creation which has a wonderful seasonal, fall take. A spicy, cool weather Tequila cocktail? Yes, please.

Masa's Premium Margarita: 2 oz Milagro Anejo Tequila, .75 Mariposa, .25 Licor 43, .5 oz orange juice, .75 oz lime juice, salted rim.

The Poser: 2 oz Masa's jalapeńo infused blanco Tequila, 3 shakes cinnamon, 1 oz Mariposa, 1.5 oz Masa's house-made Jaimica (hibiscus syrup).

Next Tuesday, November 6th, get ready. You're invited to the Boston Fernet Branca Barback Games- judged by among others, me (I know, but it will be a good time nonetheless).
Local barbacks will compete against each other in a variety of challenges testing their speed and skill; the winner will walk away that night as the best barback in Boston. They will be flown to San Francisco to compete against other regional winners from New York, San Diego and San Francisco for the title of best barback in the country.

Adding to all the Fernet fun, house DJs 7L and Brek will be providing tunes and local legends Brother Cleve & TJ the DJ will be there. Best of all? Tickets for this event are FREE WITH RSVP: fernetboston.eventbrite.com

ROYALE
279 Tremont Street, Boston
Tuesday 11/6/12
Doors 9PM

During a big storm, people feel compelled flock to the store for milk, eggs and other deemed essentials.
That being said, with the treat of Halloween and trick of Hurricane Sandy upon us- I say we take advantage and stock up on candy, whiskey and old horror movies. At the very least, I'm going to watch Nouvelle Vague's music video covering the classic Bauhaus song 'Bela Lugosi's Dead.' Paired with a glass of Black Maple Hill Rye and a KitKat- definitely my Happy Halloween.

I walked into the fantastic and welcoming bar/restaurant Toro on a recent afternoon, greeted immediately by assistant general manager Katy Chirichiello (yeah, I had to ask her how to spell it). Friendly faces were everywhere, Jason Cheek behind the line, Garrett Salomon behind one end of the bar, and on the other, the man I initially came to see, Andy McNees. His bartending pedigree is prodigious- B-Side Lounge, Bukowski's, Eastern Standard, Green Street; so it is no wonder I've enlisted his help in learning more about shrubs. Not gardening mind you, the kind used in drinks; and, the best part? I got to sample a couple of delicious cocktails- hard work, I know.

Andy kindly sent over the following details and how-to; take it away Mr. McNees:

Shrubs: A brief history and recipe.

7. Let your shrub cool down before you refrigerate. It should stay fresh for a couple of months.

So, I am going to try raspberry, what are you going to use? Next time at Toro let Andy know your results- here are two terrific examples of what his can do:

La Silva 1 oz Fig Shrub, 1.5 oz Rittenhouse Rye, 1 oz Maple Liqueur, .25 oz lemon juice

Bartlett 2 0z Laird's Applejack, 1 oz Pear Shrub, .5 oz pear syrup, .5 oz lemon juice

Maybe I'm not meant to like this stuff so much- but I'll bear my soul- Lazzaroni Amaretto is simply delicious. Made in Saronno, Italy since 1851, and unlike its counterparts, uniquely infuses the world famous Amaretti di Saronno Lazzaroni cookies with a base spirit (brandy).
Viscous and mildly sweet, it is not cloying, and has a wonderful almond cookie, biscotti flavor- no wonder they are celebrating 150 years. Further, a 750ml bottle should run you under $25. Our sweet loving culture has forced drier palates to often carelessly shy away and overlook dessert wines and after dinner liqueurs- we're all so used very sweet sodas. But, I'm telling you, pour an ounce and a half of this for your guests after dinner and watch the smiles.
I prefer it by itself, but let's get old school for a minute. I've recently been making these again (after a hiatus of a decade or more) for customers- yes, you Stephanie- with much success.
Cin Cin!

Lazzaroni Amaretto can be found at Cambridge Wine & Spirits near Alewife
and V. Cirace & Son in the North End.

Troy Clarke and Elizabeth Powell are helping redefine the hotel bar at Artbar in Cambridge; to call your seasonal drink menu "Artbar Fall Canvas" is ambitious, to succeed is dramatic. For the cocktail adventurous, tucked in the northern side of the Royal Sonesta Hotel, this place is, I'm telling you, worth a trip.
What I think I like most though, is the fact that you can find a cocktail geek sitting next to a business traveler (or guy like me) drinking a Corona. Now, that's New England hospitality.

Try these from the Paint Box:

How great is this story:

"In the summer of 1981, Ansley Coale picked up a hitch-hiker along Highway 101, north of San Francisco. Hubert Germain-Robin came from the Jules Robin family, cognac producers since 1782. Hubert told a sad tale: ancient hand-methods of distillation were disappearing as huge firms applied "improved" high-volume methods. Hubert wanted to go back to craft-method distillation, techniques handed down for centuries from master to apprentice."

Mr. Germain-Robin and Mr. Coale were thankfully forward thinkers by bringing Cognac brandy making practices and techniques to Mendocino; a great idea long before craft distilling was in vogue. An antique Cognac pot still? Check. Cellared in Limousin oak? Check. Neutral acidic grapes like Ugni Blanc for distillation? Well... not so fast. The major difference between Germain-Robin brandies and the brandies of Cognac is they use premium varietal grapes like Pinot Noir and Semillon. The result is a rounder, smoother spirit. Dare I say it? Their brandy is a lot more elegant than many Cognacs, particularly mass marketed Cognac's younger versions.

Tony Morello and Molly Stapleton of Winebow were kind enough to bring in three separate bottles the other day for me to try. I know, I know, these are the perks of the restaurant business; though I have to remind myself of this when cleaning a bathroom on a busy weekend night.

First up was the Lot-numbered Craft-method Brandy. Comparable to a VSOP (very special old pale) Cognac its age is 6 to 8 years, made with Colombard, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling and Zinfandel. Rich fruit of apple, pear jump out of the glass.
Next was the Coast Road Reserve, with considerably more age- 8 to 22 years. Distiller Joe Corley calls this blend "dark and brooding." I think richer, spicier, more complex. One might use the Craft-method for mixing in cocktails and the Coast Road for a sip after dinner.
While Germain-Robin makes some single barrel brandies from select years I haven't tried, I did get to taste the Select Barrel XO (extra old- those letters are not as scary as they seem). Average age 15 years, mostly pinot noir grapes, and blended from many separate casks of individual "congruent" brandies. The pinot noir gives a wonderful complex yet soft finish. Which, I might add goes on and on, with vanilla spice and soft red fruit flavors.

Using Germain-Robin in cocktails is a no brainer, obviously with drinks like a Sidecar. But also try as a Bourbon or Rye substitute in a Manhattan. I have made a tasty (at least I think so) Cognac after dinner cocktail for years, I hope it does Germain-Robin justice. The famous nineteenth century bartender Jerry Thomas made a delicious drink called Japanese cocktail, celebrating a Japanese delegation and their mid-1800's visit to New York. His drink was Congnac, Orgeat (almond syrup) and bitters.

Here's my take:

Mikado
1.5 oz Germain-Robin Craft-Method Brandy
.5 oz Cointreau (or other orange liqueur)
.25 oz Orgeat (use .5 oz if you like it a little sweeter)
4 generous dashes of Angostura Bitters
Shake- I know this is an exception to the rule of stirring as it does not have any fruit juice, but I think it works. Pros might double strain (pour through a sieve) to remove all ice flakes, although I kind of like them as is in this drink.
Use a lemon peel zest over drink, the acid and brandy are a nice foil to the sweetness of the orange and almond.

During the Boston Cocktail Summit last Friday (hard to believe a week has gone by), Bacardi held its Legacy Cocktail Competition. The winners were Bill Codman from Storyville and Sam Treadway from Backbar. They will travel to Miami in February and compete against other regional winners (New York, Chicago and Miami) to determine who will represent the US at the Global Finals in Puerto Rico.

These two pros came up with terrific drinks from opposite directions. Bill seems to herald the idea (a good one I might add) of keep pretending it's summer (or at least I imagine sipping it somewhere in the sunshine). Sam celebrates the fall; drink while watching the turning colors of New England.
Cheers, boys!