You can find Lou Saban behind Oak Long Bar at the Copley Plaza Hotel. Lucky for all of us recently he found himself abroad, and penned the following piece.

By Lou Saban:

Bartending is a real mixed bag.
When all is said and done, it’s pretty nice holding the keys to the stuff that most adults use to make themselves feel better about their spot on the planet. Unfortunately, for every generous tip or compliment on a well-balanced cocktail, sometimes you also have to answer the question, “So, what’s your real job?” In my head I respond, "when I am not doing this, I’m the CEO of a non-profit organization that provides neurosurgery for puppies."
Still, it’s a gig with a lot of cool benefits. In my mind, the greatest perk is the sense of community with your fellow barkeeps. If you do this job long enough, you start to recognize the people who also make their living pouring things into glasses. You always love to see these people sitting at your barstool because they tip well, are low maintenance, and can always relate to the condescending sneers that you may have received that day. Camaraderie is a beautiful thing.
What’s even better is that this bond doesn’t just stop at the nation’s borders. I am lucky enough to work for a hotel chain that has many locations around the world. When I noticed that there was one in London, I was interested. When I noticed that it was
The Savoy, I was elated.

Most bars worth their salt will have an old copy of the Savoy Cocktail Book somewhere on their shelf. It was written in 1930 by an American named Harry Craddock. Craddock flew the coop from the prohibition-afflicted United States in 1920, and became the head bartender at the American Bar at The Savoy in London. He spread the joys of the American cocktail to Europe and used his cocktail book to preserve recipes that may have otherwise been lost to antiquity. Despite a few renovations, the American Bar is still there, and it is really something.

When you first walk in, you notice the beautiful black and white sign that looks like it could have been there in 1920 as Craddock walked in for the first time. Immediately to your left, there is a small museum (you heard me right, this bar is so cool it has its own museum) full of old placards and menus from its many decades of existence. There are also telegraphs for Charlie Chaplin and Georges Clemenceau, bills for Sir Lawrence Olivier, and countless pictures of Vivien Leigh, John Wayne, Winston Churchill, and essentially anyone who was anyone in the last century.

All of that is well and good, but the real stunner is the case of vintage booze. Inside this treasure chest contains Gordon’s Gin, Pernod, Luxardo, and Carpano Antica from the 1950s; Van der Hum from the 1940’s; and a Jourd Cordial-Medoc from 1933. The crown jewel of the whole collection is this: a bottle of Sazerac de Forge Cognac from 1858. I wasn’t even aware that something like this existed, but there it was right before my very eyes. This bottle is pre-Civil War. Its nine years older than Canada! More notably, it’s a time capsule of what French grapes tasted like before they were nearly destroyed by the Phylloxera parasite in the late 19th century. It’s so beautiful that it even makes even its neighboring bottle of Moet Chandon from 1884 pale in comparison.

Once your head stops spinning, you proceed into the bar for a dozen or so of London’s finest cocktails. The bar consists mostly of a large lounge with a piano player to your immediate right. The bar itself is very small; only four seats with no standing room allowed. There is one man on service bar, and the friendly and knowledgeable Tom Walker for the rail. The small setting ensures that the drinks are made at a deliberate pace to ensure that nary a step is missed in both the creation of the drink and the presentation. The result is a simply wonderful libation.

The menu is a mixture of Savoy originals from the White Lady, to contemporaries such as the Green Park, to the totally outrageous. Remember that cognac that I mentioned earlier? They use it to make an original Sazerac cocktail along with the Pernod from the 1950s and Peychaud’s Bitters from the early 1900s. Its 5,000 GBP. Depending on the exchange rate, that’s about $8000 USD. For one cocktail. Once I picked myself up off the floor, I decided this cocktail was only for people who have absolutely no idea what to do with their money. In the words of Kurt Vonnegut, “It takes all kinds of people to fill up a world.”

All in all, it was a privilege to sit at this piece of living history and share a few drinks with Tom Walker and his more than capable colleagues. The international brotherhood of bartenders may not be out there splitting atoms or making contributions to string theory (or puppy neurosurgery), but we know how to take care of the people who do. More importantly, we know how to take care of each other, which makes it all worth it. And yes, this is my only job. Cut me a break, will ya?

Steve Shur, behind the venerable Boston College Club bar. At my urging, he thoughtfully contributes a personal essay this week.

Why it's best to visit bartenders rather than bars- by Steve Shur.

“I visit bartenders, not bars.” I first heard those meaningful words spoken by “the Yoda of mixology” Gary Regan a few years ago in a seminar at the Museum Of The American Cocktail in the wonderful city of New Orleans. During a very tiring Jazzfest week it was amazing I made it to the seminar at all, but I was not going to miss the chance to meet anyone compared to Yoda. In the seminar I remember Gaz talking about his favorite bartenders from all over the world. When Josh Childs asked me to contribute to this blog I figured it would make sense to talk about my favorite bartenders since, frankly, they are a huge reason I am a full-time bartender which has been the best job I’ve ever had. Loving what you do for work is something we all should be able to say although few people can. I am grateful I can, and it is in large part due to some of the greats I have met along the way. It is impossible to name all of the people in the industry who have influenced me, but they have all played a part in what has become both an obsession and a career that I truly love.
Being a bartender was my first job out of college back in the 20th century (great cocktail), but it wasn’t until the 21st century that I finally realized what the key to being a great bartender was: making people happy. In 2008, while in New Orleans during Jazzfest, my girlfriend Michelle and I decided to have dinner at the legendary Arnaud’s restaurant. Not necessarily because of the great food or the rich history of being open since 1918 or for the chance to get the fiery Café Brulot for dessert. The main reason we went to visit was because of an article I had read in the Boston Globe about a specific cocktail Chris Hannah had made for the writer called the Curari, a libation made with rye whiskey, ruby port, Amaro Cora, and orange bitters. The descriptions of the writer’s experience had me more than curious, making it an absolute must to make Arnaud’s.

We were sat in a beautiful dining room adjacent to Bourbon Street with a jazz trio belting out classic jazz standards which created a most pleasant atmosphere that could never be forgotten. Our waiter approached us and asked us what we would like to drink. My response was basically a busy bartender’s nightmare which went something like: “Yeah, I saw an article about a drink that some guy makes here but can’t remember the name of the drink or the guy...” The waiter knew I was talking about Chris so he escorted me to meet the weeded barman and had me repeat my embarrassing request to him while he was trying to make drinks for the extremely busy restaurant. Chris didn’t have time to look at me much but, to my amazement, assured me he knew which drink I was referring and told me it would be right over to my table. Shortly after I returned to my table the drink arrived with a napkin doubling as a personal note from Chris. He included the name of the cocktail’s creator (Ted Haigh aka “Dr. Cocktail”) and the recipe. This was as impressive as the taste, which was a fresh new experience to my inexperienced palate. We had been at the restaurant for less than 10 minutes and my experience was truly special before I had even looked at the extravagant delicious-sounding menu. I enjoyed the cocktail so much that when the waiter came back to serve me another cocktail my request was simple: “Have Chris make me whatever he wants.” Not the best thing to tell a busy bartender when sitting at the bar, but telling a waiter there is no guilt to worry about. Soon came another fascinating libation, another napkin, another note with the drink’s history and recipe, and another terrific experience. Our 3-hour dinner was perfect in every aspect including the Café Brulot for the finish. Before I had even ordered any dinner an important rule of the service industry had been demonstrated: “Good service can save a bad meal, but a good meal can’t save bad service.” This place was great on both ends.
When I returned to Boston there was a new door to enter into the world of bartending--not only some new concoctions but a new way to make a guest’s experience special. Since then I have strived to make my customers happy and have written many a recipe on many napkins.

About a month later a few friends and I went to the Green St. Grill in Cambridge to test out a large portion of their illustrious cocktail menu. Misty Kalkofen was there that evening, very busy and smiling wide every time she approached us to take our many requests. Everything we had that evening was exceptional of course, most importantly my first Old Fashioned: simply but perfectly made with whiskey, sugar, water, and bitters. I inquired about the history of the drink and got not only everything I needed to know on how to make one of these gems but Misty, knowing I was a bartender, told me about Tales Of The Cocktail, B.A.R. (Beverage Alcohol Resource) program, and she introduced me to The Savoy Cocktail book. I had just found the Holy Grail all in one visit. In one month, my passion for the industry had multiplied 100 times. I remember telling Misty all about Chris Hannah in New Orleans whom she did not know at the time. “Well, you gotta meet him” I said.

Another experience that must be shared is a visit with Josh Childs at Silvertone a few years ago. My good friend Bruce was in town from Kansas City and the night before he went home I took him to the comfort food speakeasy-like bar we all know and love. We didn’t really know what we wanted to drink so we asked Josh to make us something nice. Two Captain Shaddock cocktails were put in front of us and it was just want we wanted: nice and light, refreshing, and balanced. The cocktail was great, but it was Josh’s casual but professional and friendly demeanor that made us feel exceptionally comfortable, the way everyone should feel when visiting a bar or tavern.

The other night a couple of co-workers and I got out of work at the same time and went to Stoddard’s Bar for a quick cocktail before going home. As soon as we arrived at the crowded busy bar I made certain to say hello to Jamie Walsh, bar manager and friend who always makes us feel more than welcome. We had some stellar cocktails and when I asked Jamie what he was passionate about these days in the industry he took us all downstairs to The Friday Club, a place that will primarily feature spirits and beer from local and independent producers. One cocktail turned into a few and into another great night out.
Exceeding a guest’s needs should be the goal of every bartender. Friendly service is infectious and everlasting and will make people come back and feel welcome. Trying new bars can be fun and a great experience, but when you are looking for a guaranteed good time out for some drinks and maybe some dinner, visiting bartenders instead of bars is always the way to go.

Chad Arnholt is as good as it gets- both behind the bar and as a person. His last night was Tuesday behind the stick at The Franklin, he's leaving us for San Francisco, but before driving out of town kindly penned the following post:

'Tis the season

Decorative trees are being trimmed, blinking red-green lights strung about town, and dry air crystallizes my nostrils into ice dams. I have an 'ah ha' moment--its whiskey season! To be fair, for me whiskey season is year long, with booms in spring and fall (and summer). Yet, nothing can compare with the warmth of some barrel-aged wrapping around you like a blanket on a frosty winter night.

Perhaps it's obvious to say but whiskey is back! After years of idly collecting dust on back bars, witness to the fame of so many flavored vodkas and fill-in-the-blank-tinis, brown spirits have slowly muscled their way to the speedracks of our favorite bars, to be enjoyed alone or in cocktail.

Gone are the days when a bourbon or scotch would wait desperately to be mixed with cola, or pine for a crew of victorious lawyers to toast. Here are the days of the corner bar with 200 bourbons and brown spirits peppering cocktail lists nation-wide.

Scotch for My iPod

Scotch is perhaps the earliest ancestor to what we today call whiskey, and for over a century was eponymous with whiskey. By the time I arrived behind the stick around the turn of the millennium (and about 17 years into the venerable Josh Childs career!) whiskey was what you mixed with coke and single malt was what you gave grandpa. There were about three to choose from--a lighter one, a smokier one, and one that was sherry tasting.

Nowadays the booze industry rewards diversity across the board. New botanical blends and old tom gin recipes pop up daily, a dozen rums on the back bar seems normal, and bourbon, once paired down to a lone bottle in the well, comes in small batches, single barrels, high ryes, wheat-eds, and craft labels. In an era where consumers can access a million varieties of million of things right from their iPhone, its no wonder that drinkers would support the same sort of diversity. Now scotch may have been the last to pick up on such an obvious trend, but one could argue that it is better suited to offer variety than any other spirit. With a combination of geographic variables, regional style preferences, and blending, aging, and finishing techniques, scotch inherently offers range.

So lets look at a few burgeoning scotch trends that are probably worth paying attention, and in so doing maybe find a few holiday gift ideas for some latent malt drinkers.

Blended Whisky

Blended scotch isn't just the last result drink at a wedding reception anymore. For those who don't comb through British legal jargon on the regular, blended whisky contains a mixture of malt spirit and grain spirit (usually less then half malt) barrel aged for minimum 3 years. Robust malt flavor can be a little much for some drinkers. Blending in grain spirit gives a lighter quality to the whisky, and blending different malts attains a more balanced flavor. Lighter and smoother whisky can appeal to the less experienced whisky drinker, so, understandably this area has a lot of room for growth. AND blended whisky often sells at a fraction of single malt prices--double win!

New great entries from boutique producers Pig's Nose and: Compass Box: Great King Street offer good quality, value, and underdog inspiration. Some of those dusty labels are resurfacing as well. If you like Macallan but want to have money left for groceries, try Famous Grouse.

Blended/Vatted/Pure Malt Whisky

If you love the funk and spice that malt brings to the table but don't want to commit to all smoke, blended malts are the way to go. Blended Malt Whisky (historically called Vatted Malt) is a tradition that dates back almost two centuries. In the old days wine and tea merchants would buy single malts from different distilleries, mix them together, and throw their name on the label. While blended whisky has been ubiquitous since the 1800s, blended malt whisky has stayed under the radar. Today new labels are popping up all of the time, as there are plenty drinkers who want a more rounded experience than any one whisky can offer. Vatting is a true art of the palate, and sometimes mixing five whiskies can give you something that one cannot. Sheep Dip, Compass Box: Peat Monster, and Eades are all fun examples here. The folks at High West have been pushing further the vatting technique, with their Campfire label, which marries scotch malt whisky with some American rye and bourbon.

Independent/Merchant Bottling

Want to taste a single malt distilled at Old Pulteney that has been aged for 21 years but don't have a couple hundred dollars to spend? Want to see what port finish does to a Caol Ila? Houses like Gordon & MacPhail buy stock from the big guys or for that matter whoever is offering, and by aging it in their own style create a whisky that is unique to the merchant but traceable to the distiller of origin. Literally hundreds of products from independent bottlers are showing up in purveyors' books every month. Many of them are quite unique one-offs or value buys, and sometimes both. Some of them are new takes on old favorites that the whisky enthusiast can really geek out on. There are many, many independent bottlers out there. Douglas Laing, Gordon & MacPhail, Duncan Taylor, and Signatory do a stand-up job. A now extinct Blackadder bottling of Caol Ila changed my life forever.

International Malt Whiskies

Mimicry is the highest form of flattery. Scottish malt whisky is popular enough for others to take notice, and in turn fire up their own stills. India, Japan, South Africa, Australia, and yes, the US of A are some of the non anglo-celtic malt whiskies out there. In some cases international malts are exemplary counterparts to their Scottish buddies, deserved of a place in a flight of scotch--Japanese whiskies from Nikka and Suntory ring a bell. In other cases they are more indicative of local distilling styles, as is the case with some of the new malt whiskey brands on the US markets. Beech-smoked California single malt whiskey anyone?

In a climate where visibility is crucial, many American and international malt whiskies jump out in contrast to the ubiquitous bourbon and rye selections on shelves and back bars. McCarthy's, Wasmund's, and St. George simply offer something very different while maintaining the patriotic allure of drinking a native spirit.

Further, here in a new golden age of our industry, a drinker or barkeep has what seems like limitless options to chose from--a type of cordial for every course or different mescal for every occasion. And finally, crotchety old grandpa scotch has caught up with the times and got a facelift, and it looks pretty damn good.

I walked into the fantastic and welcoming bar/restaurant Toro on a recent afternoon, greeted immediately by assistant general manager Katy Chirichiello (yeah, I had to ask her how to spell it). Friendly faces were everywhere, Jason Cheek behind the line, Garrett Salomon behind one end of the bar, and on the other, the man I initially came to see, Andy McNees. His bartending pedigree is prodigious- B-Side Lounge, Bukowski's, Eastern Standard, Green Street; so it is no wonder I've enlisted his help in learning more about shrubs. Not gardening mind you, the kind used in drinks; and, the best part? I got to sample a couple of delicious cocktails- hard work, I know.

Andy kindly sent over the following details and how-to; take it away Mr. McNees:

Shrubs: A brief history and recipe.

7. Let your shrub cool down before you refrigerate. It should stay fresh for a couple of months.

So, I am going to try raspberry, what are you going to use? Next time at Toro let Andy know your results- here are two terrific examples of what his can do:

La Silva 1 oz Fig Shrub, 1.5 oz Rittenhouse Rye, 1 oz Maple Liqueur, .25 oz lemon juice

Bartlett 2 0z Laird's Applejack, 1 oz Pear Shrub, .5 oz pear syrup, .5 oz lemon juice

Man, Sabrina Kershaw is a good bartender. Although, one of my favorite things about her is not necessarily her cocktail making speed and skill, but that after work she can be caught drinking a Bud Light Lime. Locally, she is behind the bar at Citizen, but here she gives us a glimpse of the apprentice system at Tales of the Cocktail:

7 days 60 strangers or my week as a CAP:

Like many other bartenders in town, I went to New Orleans at the end of July to attend Tales of The Cocktail. However I did not spend my time attending seminars and hanging out at the carousel bar (ok I did a little of that). Instead I spent my time in the pastry kitchen of the Hotel Monteleone with 50 crazy people who are now some of my best friends.
Every year 100's of people from around the world apply to be a part of the Cocktail Apprentice Program. There are 50 spots, with some of those reserved for senior apprentices who have been in the program before (i.e. me). We spend the week batching cocktails and garnishes for all the seminars as well as some of the special events that go on throughout the week (think Ramos gin fizz for 150 people).
Each morning the kitchen begins to fill up with people and bright orange 5 gallon buckets around 8am and the work ends at around 6pm. To give you a rough idea of the scale of batching going on; the last day of batching consisted of 170 gallons of punch, 3,000 lime pieces for garnish, 3,000 lemon twists for garnish, and 600 pieces of ginger, amongst a slew of other cocktails being prepared that day.

Why would anyone want to spend their time at Tales working right? Here's why I do it:
this is the best way I have found to bond with fellow bar enthusiasts by far. Stick a bunch of strangers together for a week with a common goal: make sure every seminar goes as planned and starts on time.
We work hard, and we definitely play harder. No one can quite understand what the week was like for us CAPs, but what I can tell you is I left with 50 new friends, an only slightly damaged liver, fond (if only partially remembered) memories and a new tattoo.
And just in case you are still wondering what a day in the life of a CAP is like, here is "Wha ha happened"...

Kirsten Amann is everywhere. If you haven’t met, you may have seen her around town, or at least the aqua-blue Fernet Branca car she drives while working tirelessly as a brand ambassador. She has vast experience in the restaurant and PR industries, and, luckily for me is a terrific writer, her pieces appearing in the Weekly Dig, Daily Candy and a new cocktail book. As if all this wasn’t qualification enough, she also spearheads the United States Bartenders’ Guild Boston (USBG) and is one of the founding members of the Boston chapter of Ladies United for the Preservation of Endangered Cocktails (LUPEC). What is she doing helping me out with some details from Tales of the Cocktail? I don’t know, but I’m smart enough to take it.
Ladies and Gentlemen, Kirsten “Kitty” Amann.
Hit it:

Tales of the Horse Drawn Buggy
by Kirsten Amann

It’s hard to explain exactly what happens at Tales of the Cocktail in New Orleans. Over 20,000 cocktail nerds, enthusiasts, bartenders and liquor promoters descend upon the Crescent City for five straight days of seminars, parties, and revelry, all in homage to that great American invention, the cocktail. People with normal jobs often balk or think I’m joking when I say that I’m going to a cocktail conference. “Hey now,” I usually say, “This is the most important industry event I’ll attend all year!” Then I try not to rub it in because a cocktail conference sure beats a dentistry or accounting convention. Just sayin’.

One must approach such serious industry functions with poise and professionalism. Here are some tactics I employed this summer at Tales of the Cocktail:

1. Designate a handler. This will be the fourth summer in a row that I’ve traveled with a gaggle of girls from LUPEC (Ladies United for the Preservation of Endangered Cocktails) Boston to Tales and I’ll tell you what: we broads are a handful. In an effort to ensure that we don't end up face down in a gutter on Bourbon Street, we always appoint a handler, typically a gentleman designated to step in if a creepy guy gets too close, carry our bags if they get too heavy, and help us across the tricky cobblestones of New Orleans when our platforms feel too tippy. We consider it an honor to be considered for such a prestigious and challenging position. Candidates typically puff up their chests at the heroics of the job, and often do quite a good job in the early hours of their working interview. Unfortunately, they usually underestimate our collective tolerance and end up drunk/drooling on themselves in a corner of the bar as we race for last call at the Old Absinthe House.

But this year’s handler was a dream come true. Fellow Bostonian Troy Clarke, who was in town to launch Twelve Twenty Four, his new line of absolutely amazing bartender bags, stepped up. He took to the job like a fish to water. His secret? The man has three little children at home. And drunk people are very, very similar to unruly toddlers. Troy Clarke, for reminding us to eat, reminding us to use inside voices without being rude, and putting us down for a disco nap when we were overtired and cranky, LUPEC salutes you.

2. Get out of the Quarter. New Orleans is an amazing city with so much to offer! Getting out of the French Quarter is a must. Preferably by hailing a mule-drawn buggy and asking the driver to take you to the Roosevelt Hotel, where your pal Will from Drink is staying. You just made your way there with the best ass in town.

Upon arrival at the Roosevelt, proceed directly to the rooftop bar, where you can order a Sazerac made from the same famous recipe they use at the recently reopened Sazerac Bar downstairs. Then sip your cocktail languidly at the covered rooftop bar as you wait for that summer rain squall to pass. And if Will from Drink happens to have a bottle of St. George Absinthe in his bag, don’t hesitate to order a bottle of bubbles and allow him to mix you up a Death in the Afternoon poolside. Even if he is wearing Ferragamo loafers and black socks with his swimsuit.

3. Do some mixology. Tales offers classes on everything under the sun from the science of shaking to molecular mixology to the history of cocktails and the Panama Canal. What better way to make the most of the conference than by applying those skills hand on? Preferably poolside with some of your favorite Boston bartenders. Because you totally travelled thousands of miles to New Orleans so you could hang out with the same clowns you see on the reg in Boston.

Many brands throw pool parties at Tales with lavish cocktails, sexy promo girls, and raucous fun. None could hold a candle to our impromptu BLL pool party at the Monteleone Hotel’s rooftop pool. By BLL we mean Bud Light Lime. A few quick text messages was all it took to assemble some of Beantown’s finest bartenders – Sam Treadway from Back Bar, Tyler Wang from No.9 Park, Adam Lantheaume of the Boston Shaker, Joy Richard of the Citizen & LUPEC, Sean Frederick of the Citizen, John Henderson and Rob of Scholars – for some Bud Light Lime mixology. There was no St-Germain to be found, making our favorite BLL cocktail, the Imperial Royale, impossible. But Lucas Bols rep Stefanie Melchert was able to step in and supply Bols Genever for a new delicious concoction, the Dutch Royale. A little Fernet turned them into Milan Royales. Boom, cocktail! As you can see by this picture, we didn't have any fun at the BLL pool party.

Professionalism, decorum, and poise. That’s what the Tales of the Cocktail conference is all about.

Cin-cin!