The famous wine writer (and importer) of the 50s through the 80s, Alexis Lichine once said about learning wine "buy yourself a corkscrew and use it." The message clearly, taste, taste and taste again. I translated this idea with spirits into a visit at the Urban Grape South End the other day where I decided to purchase a bottle I'd never heard of, and, well, taste. As Ben Bouton (of UG and beer buyer) said to me "...either way trying something new is worth it. At worst, if you don't like it, you know you never have to try it again." Words to live by.

I picked Riga Black Balsam, an herbal liqueur from Latvia, created in 1752 to help heal the empress of Russia. Like so many old spirits, began in this medicinal way and today is sipped after dinner or maybe added to coffee or tea. What's in it? Secret recipe of course, but they do admit to birch bud, valerian root, raspberry, ginger, nutmeg, black peppercorn, peppermint and other herbs and blossoms.
It's kind of like Fernet Branca or other Amaros with the addition of berry sweetness (almost, but not quite, cough syrup-esque). Pretty rough and tumble though, trust me, a lot goes a long way, and at 90 proof you don't want to be drinking shots of this all night. So, what do you do with it? Here's what I tried, kind of a Riga Julep:
1.5 oz rye, .5 oz Riga Black Balsam, .25 oz simple syrup, mint, .5 lemon, ginger beer. Pretty tasty and surprisingly light.
Go out and try something new, you just never know.
Riga Black Balsam 375ml available at the Urban Grape, $18.

Hirsch Canadian Rye is sourced for the Anchor Distilling Company from Glenora Distillery located on Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia. Double distilled (second in pot stills), aged in oak and bottled by hand this is serious stuff, true to older Canadian Whisky roots. The style is more subtle, lighter with fruit and honey flavors than American versions, but there is still spice from the 100% rye and 3 years in oak. Think of this selection's weight more akin to a lowland Scotch, where say the American Bulleit Rye would be like the much bigger Islay whiskies. Now I've confused myself.

Enjoy this with a couple of ice cubes, but really it shines in cocktails, particularly lighter Collins-style drinks. I've recently been re-making a variation I came up with last Summer:

Check the Rhyme
1.5 oz Hirsch Canadian Rye
.75 oz Cocci Americano (an Italian aperitif- like the French Lillet)
.75 oz thyme simple syrup
.5 oz lemon
Serve as a Collins- on ice with a splash of soda if desired. Garnish with thyme sprig.
Make simple syrup 1 to 1 water to sugar. Heat until sugar is dissolved, then simmer with thyme (a cup should work) for 15 minutes. Turn off heat, cover until cool and strain out the thyme.

Hirsch Canadian Rye, 86 proof, about $30.
Find it at:
Bin Ends Braintree
Blanchard's West Roxbury and Jamaica Plain
Boston Wine Exchange Downtown

It started for me in South Station the other day, but really years earlier.
Pappy Van Winkle Bourbon, elusive to say the least, equivalent to the cult cabernet fandom of Napa Valley's Screaming Eagle or Bordeaux's Chateau Petrus in the wine world. So, I began a voyage to Mecca of sorts, in Providence, RI, and Matt Jennings' stellar restaurant Farmstead. The Pilgrims with me: Ryan Sosti (Ruby Wines), TJ Douglas (Urban Grape and organizer of the trip), Chef Michael Scelfo (Russell House Tavern and soon to be Alden & Harlow).

It was also a trip down memory lane, my first bar shift ever was over two decades ago on South Main Street- maybe you can go home again? A sunny afternoon, I remembered one of my old haunts, The Hot Club, which was the same as ever; perfect, sitting on the deck enjoying a beer, there is a reason this place has been here so long. We met up with an old buddy of Ryan's who cringed (and affably took it in stride) when he regaled us with the story of his nickname- Vodka Bill. As if I didn't already know I was in for a long night? Then, on to Farmstead on the East Side (driven by Vodka Bill in an Escalade), for dinner, and of course, Pappy. Ushered in to a warm welcome from our gracious host and Chef Matt, we were quickly handed a cocktail.

The Kentucky Flower
1.5 oz W.L. Weller Bourbon, .5 oz St. Germain, .5 oz lemon juice, cranberry, egg white.
Light, frothy and delicious, be careful you could probably drink many of these- thank goodness we were in the process of being seated and greeted by the man himself- Julian Van Winkle III.

Matt Jennings had a tough task, to pair big, spicy, high proof whiskey with food. He performed with aplomb. Van Winkle Special Reserve 12 year Lot "B" is the lightest of the whiskeys we tried at only 90 proof- but this is by no means a simple spirit, delicious, rich vanilla and spice. Best part is you might even be able to get your hands on a bottle. Matt served a pungent and very tasty smoked cod rillette which held its own.

Next up was TJ's favorite, the Pappy Van Winkle's Family Reserve 15 year, 107 proof. This is booming stuff- fig, vanilla, tobacco- spicy and tannic which paired with chicken terrine, vegetables, chicharrones and bourbon mustard. This was, indeed, bourbon lovers heaven- particularly after a couple of eyedrops of water to lower the proof (Julian's suggestion by the way).

Mr. Van Winkle introduced the main course with a nod to his grandfather who started working for the W.L. Weller distillery at the age of 18 in 1893. "I like to refer to this as butter bourbon, smooth and delicious." He continued with a wry smile, "I'm so glad you like our family's bourbon but in your enthusiasm you've created your own competition."
Pappy Van Winkle's Family Reserve 20 year, absolutely my favorite with molasses, toffee and round vanilla creaminess. Chef Scelfo, across from me, thought this pairing was Chef Jennings' best- slow roasted pork shoulder and loin, turnip puree and golden raisins, fiddlehead ferns and pickled oysters. "Perfect along side the bourbon, not trying to go at it, you know? Let's the whiskey shine."

Ryan is a self-proclaimed dessert guy, so he was eagerly waiting on the final pairing, which beyond delivered. Pineapple upside down cake with candied ginger and bourbon ice cream along side Pappy Van Winkle's Family Reserve 23 year? Wow, I don't know how I got past security but I'm glad I did. The spice and proof of this spirit married very well with sweetness and showed of the whiskey's honeyed character. As if this wasn't enough, Julian's southern gentlemanly nature treated us to a special surprise. From Kentucky earlier that day he grabbed 2 bottles of a bourbon his father made in 1970 and bottled in 1984, then sat in his garage for almost 30 years. It was 14 year Pappy that drank like a mellower 15 year- what a way to end the evening.

We found the terrific new bar (only a couple months) called The Eddy, on Eddy street downtown on the way back to the train. Perfectly made cocktails with a tight, well thought out beer and wine menu- check it out when you're in town.

A train ride home, full and a only little buzzed (thank goodness the pours were small), swirling thoughts of bourbons I may not try again- this was a legendary boys night out.

The best boss I have ever had was Nelse Clark. Rewind to 1993, West Street Grille, downtown Boston- we were just a few blocks from the combat zone, The Naked Eye strip club was still there, adjacent to an old "adult" theatre. Playland Cafe was around the corner, a few steps away from what is a Starbucks now. But only a few blocks further North, the venerable Locke Ober Cafe was still packed.

Nelse was the face of West Street, a great front man always with a smile, you wanted to know him and hang out at his spot- I was lucky to work the bar. It does not surprise me at all that he is working with Andrew Cabot now creating a unique American Rum which can hold a place of honor in the deep New England distilling history. When I walked into the Privateer warehouse outside of Ipswich the other day, his friendliness made me feel like I was walking into his bar years ago- he's still the consummate host.

Andrew Cabot (1750-1791) was a merchant and rum distiller who became one of the most successful American privateers. He deployed a fleet of ships including Pilgrim, Revolution and True American for which this Rum is named. He was said to be uncommonly clever and an astute judge of men and situations. Whether smuggling molasses past British patrols or prizing British ships, Cabot was a true American. -Andrew Cabot, 2011

Of course I was there to taste the spirits, and also meet Maggie Campbell, Privateer's terrifically talented head distiller. The warehouse itself is impressive (Nelse mentions "you definitely get more space up here in Ipswich"), with thousands of square feet dedicated to racking barrel space, fermenters, still, and true to form, a bar. After a taste of cane sugar and wonderful fig-nuanced molasses, Maggie walked me first to the NSI Canadian fermenter where sugar cane and/or molasses will sit at 72 degrees for a slow 7 day process closer to what they do in Cognac as opposed to the islands for rum. This makes sense, as one of her mentors is Hubert Germain-Robin of the famous California brandy house. Distillation in a pot still and short column still for as Maggie says, "polish."

Privateer white rum is Agricole style, meaning it is distilled entirely from sugar cane, while the amber is from both cane and molasses. Maggie is constantly tasting and refining the spirit in the process, nothing is added or filtered out. "For me it comes down to marrying alchemy and science to make the best spirit I can," and even though young, she does mentoring of her own with recent visits from aspiring distillers from Sicily and Israel. As if her job wasn't enough, she's also studying for Master of Wine certification- no wonder her spirits are so good.

Don't just listen to me, the legendary Paul Picault, gave both the silver and amber 4 stars, superb and highly recommended. This is a big deal. He raves of the amber, "slightly bittersweet, and even slightly sherried; mid palate is delicate, honeyed, gently sweet, spicy, cocoa-like." Sounds like time for a sip with an ice cube, or better yet, a cocktail. I was honored to jump behind the bar and make a-

Privateer rum old fashioned:
.5 bar spoon cane sugar, drop off water to make a syrup in the glass, 1.5 oz Privateer Amber, 2 dashes Angustura orange bitters, stirred with ice, orange peel oil and garnish.

Nelse swept in to my left and fixed what he calls a-

Mexican Garden Party:
1.5 oz Privateer Silver, .75 oz fresh lime juice, .5 oz simple syrup or agave, small handful of fresh cilantro,1/3 of a Jelepeno pepper, muddle ingredients, add ice, shake and strain.

During distillation, the first off the still is called the "heads" which is imperfection heavy, then the "heart" (desired part for finished product) and finally the "tails," which are discarded. Maggie's art is defining the cut, and her comment, I'm taking and using as a metaphor for life: "when things get tail-y it gets messy." Thank goodness we have her to watch over the process.

Privateer rums can be found at the Urban Grape, Silver $25, Amber $36.

Imbue is a hand crafted aperitif wine company from Portland, Oregon; products made with love by three veterans of the wine, restaurant and bar industry. In fact, the start-up company's funds began "without outside investment… seed money all came from bar tips and borrowed wine." I like their style. They take Pinot Gris grapes, secret herbs and spices (like all great producers hotly guard their recipes) and distillate from the famed local Clear Creek Distillery. Right now they have 2 aperitif offerings available, their flagship Imbue Bittersweet Vermouth and Petal & Thorn which aims to be stylistically like an Amaro (Italian Bitter) but aperitif rather than digestif.

The golden straw colored vermouth is excellent with characteristic herb flavors like thyme and lavender. There is also citrus and vanilla. While it worked great in a martini (I used 2 oz of gin, 1 oz of Imbue vermouth, with lemon verbena bitters and a lemon peel), I think I like it better on the rocks as an aperitif before dinner.

Petal & Thorn has a red hue from beet juice, orange citrus elements and is also bittersweet with a ton of cinnamon. I think I know what happened: The famous Czech bitter Becherovka travelled to Italy and had a Roman holiday with the Italian Amaro Montenegro. The daughter of the affair is Petal & Thorn, ready for cocktails. Nick Demjen of Origin Beverage played around and has a terrific Manhattan variation- 2oz Rye, 1/2 oz Imbue Petal and Thorn, 1/4 oz Meletti Amaro, 1/4 oz Luxardo Maraschino, Luxardo cherry garnish, 2 dases Fee Bros. Whiskey Barrel Bitters.

Nick kindly visited mutually friend and one of the best bartenders around Todd Maul at Clio. On the fly he came up with a delicious and esoteric blend of Plymouth Gin, Dolin Sweet Vermouth, Imbue Bittersweet, snap pea essence and shimeji mushroom.

So I've posted about Rock and Rye before, and yes, I make a personal version which is good enough for me if legendary woman about town Rebecca Jane likes it. However, leave it Rob Cooper (St. Germain liqueur fame) to come out with a great bottled version-
Slow and Low. His, appropriately is more rough and tumble at 98 proof. Bitter, sweet, citrusy, reviving, to be best enjoyed on ice if you ask me, although I hear alongside a beer works pretty well too. Like in the old days it may just cure what ails you, maybe a substitute for the flu shot?

Perhaps too obvious, but imagine the Beastie Boys of the cocktail world, which leads me to the following video:

"Slow and Low was inspired by the original Hochstadter’s Rock and Rye recipe and a few other 19th century recipes Rob Cooper discovered.  It is made strong; using the best aged whiskey and matured slowly. 6 Year-Old Straight Rye Whiskey is macerated with three citrus peels: lemon, grapefruit and orange, pure cane rock candy, honey and a hint of horehound" (a wild bitter herb). 98 proof, about $32 in liquor stores.

George Dickel died in 1894, but his legacy lives on. I have always been a fan of the Tennesse Whisky, but after just trying the recently released 5 year rye- well, it's on. 95% rye mash whisky (no corn at all, the remaining 5% is barley), chilled, charcoal filtered- spicy, caramel and oak, with cherry fruit notes- very dry.
Good solo, even better in a Manhattan.
Its journey is a bit different from the sour mash whisky- distilled and aged in Lawrenceburg, Indiana, then true to house pedigree, onto sugar maple filtering in Tullahoma, Tennessee. 45% ABV, about $25 in stores.

A sure indication of a cocktail's fame is a international day of celebration. The first Saturday in February (this year Saturday the 2nd) is officially International Pisco Sour Day, perhaps the most famous drink in South America- maybe all the Americas.
Victor Vaughn Morris, an ex-patriot invented the drink in his Lima bar sometime before 1920, using Pisco (a grape spirit from the Peruvian town of the same name), sugar, lime juice- a take on the classic sour- Pisco for Whiskey, lime for lemon. However it wasn't until a few years later (middle 1920s) that Mario Bruiget, working in Morris' Bar, perfected the recipe by adding egg white and bitters, the version that continues to be popular today.
Like any great drink, controversy swirls, and many Chileans site evidence that, in fact they can claim its origins. Countries battling aside, historians seem to lean toward Peru, and as far as I can tell so do all bartenders that I know.

Where better to have a Pisco Sour than at the source, or at least as close as we can get in town? I headed over to the terrific Peruvian restaurant in Somerville's Union Square, Restaurante Turistico Machupicchu, a completely authentic, family operation owned by Rosy and Hugo Cerna. Between shifts can often be a pleasant down time for restaurant employees, I most likely would be the last person anyone would care to see. However, Carlos Yamo, from the western coastal town of Chiclayo, about 450 miles north of Lima, greeted me as warmly as an old friend. He poured the traditional version, adding some customers do like it sweeter and cinnamon can be added instead of bittters- which he gladly will accommodate. He made me a delicious version with Pisco Portón- the category equivalent quality of a fine single malt scotch. What a treat to have a traditional cocktail in a space where Boston seemingly drifted away- with a soccer match on in the background, a wonderful lighted picture box of Machu Picchu behind the bar and gracious, friendly service.
If you can't stop by this weekend, do so soon for live music, ceviche and of course a Pisco Sour. Salud!

Pisco Sour 2 oz Portón Pisco, .5 oz lime juice, .5 oz simple syrup, 1 egg white, Angostura bitters. A limeade for grownups!

Pisco Portón is a called a mosto verde pisco- distilled from partially fermented grape juice. Because of an incomplete fermentation, slightly higher sugar content remains. The resulting distillation creates a smooth, elegant, full bodied character. What this really means it's delicious straight too! Rich and malty, with tropical fruit flavors, 43% ABV, about $40.

I am not a heavy drinker, I swear. But what do people think when I meet up to taste Scotch with Catherine Schiff who represents, among other spirits, Cutty Sark first thing on a Monday morning? Most of us are considering a second cup of coffee and I'm making a Blood & Sand? Crazy. Cutty Sark leapt onto the scene in 1923. Light, subtle smoke, easy to drink, the brand was first 'imported' during prohibition via the Bahamas by Captain Bill McCoy a bootlegger of impeccable integrity. Cutty Sark was one of the famed spirits dubbed
'The Real McCoy.'

Today the malts in the blend are primarily selected from the famed Speyside region of Scotland- central components being legendary The Glenrothes and The Macallan. The Whisky ages in American oak casks that have previously been used for Oloroso Sherry, rounding out the final blend. Cutty is an excellent starter Scotch, and perfect for cocktails adding a smokey rich character without being overbearing. Great history is carried on but any stuffy old scotch images are pushed aside by the young and talented Kirsteen Cambell (pictured here), master blender since 2010. All this with a low price tag.

I know I'm a year off, but the Scotch that most likely would have been used to create the Blood and Sand cocktail was similar in style to Cutty and also geared to the American market. Made for the 1922 movie of the same name, starring Rudolph Valentino (Rita Hayworth was in the remake- thanks for the correction Charles)- it doesn't get much better than that. Improbable ingredients mixed together
sound questionable at best but the drink is great- almost tropical in nature.

Blood and Sand: .75 oz Cutty Sark, .75 oz Cherry Herring (cherry brandy), .75 oz orange juice, .75 oz Sweet Vermouth. Shake all ingredients with ice and strain into a cocktail glass. Cherry garnish.

Try this too, my bartending colleague Thomas Tietjen's take on the classic Rob Roy.
Roberta Roy: 2 oz Cutty Sark, .75 oz Dry Vermouth, .5 oz Luxardo Maraschino. Stir ingredients with ice, strain into a cocktail glass, cherry garnish.
I really like the balance of malt, smoke, cherry liqueur.

I don't know much about grappa except that it's often rough and tumble, prove your bravery type of shot after dinner. Like so many things, boy am I wrong.
Patrick Gaggiano, colleague, manager and bartender at Trina's Starlite Lounge (protecting myself with an Irish-Italian American) and I sat down with
Francesco Calderaro of Winebow, representing Nardini spirits of Northern Italy. He's from Sicily, by the way, so I got information directly from the source.

First of all, grappa is made from distilling the fermented pomace (skins and seeds left from table wine production), or 'vinaccia' in Italian. The substance is a solid, but spongy and delicate- unlike brandy which is distilled from fermented grape juice. That difference makes it inherently rougher, but also gets closer to the essence of the grapes. Nardini utilizes both pot and continuous stills, a vacuum sealed steam still let's them distill at lower temperatures first, extracting the most possible fragrance and flavor from the pomace.
Bortolo Nardini arrived in Bassano del Grappa in 1779 (about 75km northwest of Verona), traveling from Trentino. The headquarters are located in the original Grapperia on the bridge of the town, operated by the seventh generation of the Nardini family. Focus is, and always has been on quality. Many producers rely on spectacularly ornate glass bottles to sell product- Nardini is about what's inside and prefers classic simple elegance and tradition. Their spirit label even continues to include the old reference to Italian 'water of life' (eau de vie in French)- Aquavite. Certainly grappa did have humble beginnings as a by product of wine making, but if as many producers showed this kind of care it would be discussed in more reverent tones like Cognac.

The Grappa Bianca, is crystal clear, coming directly from the still with no barrel aging, much like a blanco Tequila. Pinot Griggio, Tocai, and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes are harvested between the Brenta and Piave rivers- premium grapes make a premium spirit. This idea is much like my chef friends who insist on only cooking with a wine they would also like to drink. 50% alcohol is obvious, but there is a generous floral nose from the grapes. Tasting it's more gentle, thanks to quality distillation- lemon, tea, honeyed flavors- an excellent digestif after dinner or mixer in, yes, cocktails. Check out ilovegrappa.com for an extensive history of grappa and some terrific cocktails by the legendary Dale Degroff. Think of using it as an alternative to brandy or pisco in drinks.

The Grappa Riserva has been aged for five years in Slovonian oak, giving it a pale straw/gold coloring and enhancing the honeyed character with vanilla. It seems rounder, softer and more delicate; less of a shot, more of a sip in a snifter. Think Madonna's 'Lucky Star' for the Bianca, 'Like a Prayer' for the Riserva. Yup, I said it.

Grappa alla Ruta is the Bianca that has been infused with Rue grown in the foothills surrounding Lake Garda for a year. The fragrance and flavor is distinctively herbal and I'd imagine it is one of those things you love or hate, not much in between, like Cilantro. I love it by the way. The Ruta would be a great substitute for Chartreuse- think Rye 1.5oz, Nardini Grappa alla Ruta .75oz, and Maraschino Liqueur .5oz, dash of orange bitters (a take on the Green Point cocktail).

Grappa alla Mandorla is also the Bianca, this time with bitter almond essences rounded with distilled cherry juice. It's like brandy meets amaretto- intense, bitter with slight sweetness- delicious! Try this:
Agro di Gaggiano: Nardini Mandorla 1.5oz, lemon juice .5oz, simple syrup .5oz, 1 egg white, topped with orange and Angostura bitters. Dry shake (no ice) the Nardini, simple and egg white vigorously. Add lemon juice, ice and then re-shake. Strain into a coup or wine glass, top with bitters. If you are afraid of the raw egg you can substitute pasteurized egg white which is widely available at grocery stores.

Finally, if you've gotten this far, I have to give a nod to Nardini's Tagliatella. It was created accidentally a century ago when the distillery sold products on tap. As various handles were used, they had a propensity to loosen and drip- waste not, want not- they barreled the drippings. Like the pasta 'Taglia' is a 'cut' or appropriately here a cocktail of all their distillates. It was also what people were drinking to save a little money- I like this idea of a hugely popular cocktail of the people- kind of the original bar mat shooter. Over the years, of course, the technique changed to be an infusion of grappa, cherry juice, orange and other aromatic components. Fruity but very well balanced, I tried it as a sweet vermouth substitute in a Manhattan- the bitter-sweet cherry really stands out- fantastic!
Even better was Francesco's analysis: "it is a holiday in a bottle!"