Le nouveau est arrive! (Should you care?)

This isn't supposed to be the year to be excited about the arrival of Beaujolais Nouveau. In 2007, the decades-old marketing machinery designed to convince the world that two-month old wine (produced on an industrial scale, hopped up with sugar and dosed with yeasts that make it taste like a bunch of bananas) is worth drinking, seems to be losing steam. Plus, the vintage wasn't one anyone in the Beaujolais was particularly crowing about.

But if you share the view that celebrating the first wine of the vintage might be fun if only the wine is, you may be ready to raise a glass to Isabelle and Bruno Perraud, whose homespun nouveau is just a completely different beast. Made from organic fruit, their Domaine des Cotes de la Moliere Beaujolais Villages nouveau comes from the cellar unfiltered, unsulfured, unchaptalized, and totally sans hoop-la.

All that's left is bright, clean, juicy gamay fruit that goes down in the cheeriest possible way. You can pick up a bottle at Cambridge's Formaggio Kitchen (about $14). If you just can't do without the bananas, you'll find them in the produce section.