An unusual situation

Let's say you're smart, talented, and dedicated enough to earn the Master of Wine designation. You'd be in pretty select company (fewer than 300 persons, worldwide have done it) and a comfortable living in the wine business would be just around the corner.

Now, let's say that with all those years of study behind you and an MW already attached to your name, you learn you're an alcoholic. What are the chances you can build a career in the trade while on the wagon?

This strange CV belongs to Tim Hanni. Katy McLaughlin told his story in Saturday's Wall Street Journal -- it's worth reading even if you think some of what Hanni is up to is a little dubious.

It was Hanni, according to the article, who developed the system of organizing wines by their broad-brush flavor characteristics ("big and bold;" "light and crisp"). He consults for restaurants like Olive Garden and Ruth's Chris Steakhouse.

Hanni may be the high priest of the "whatever you like is good" school, and believes that a little salt and lemon juice on your food will season it into a working relationhip with whatever is being poured.

There seems to be some real physiology and food science at work behind the notion, but the idea that the pleasurable, if occasionally challenging, task of matching wine and food is best addressed by applying a few drops of Hanni's proprietary Vignon sauce ($6 for a 3 ounce bottle) doesn't seem very appealing to me.