Infantalize me

Just back from two weeks of vacay, we were alerted by a reader to a post on the blog Intelligent Travel that features this startling photograph. It was shot at a hip Paris restaurant that serves its cheapest wine in baby bottles -- in part, the blogger says, to avoid the tax paid on wine served in stemware.

When you think of how wine was once -- and in some places still is -- squirted into the mouth from skins, I guess it isn't a totally new idea. Bag-in-the-box comes to mind. Then there's the shallow Champagne coupe which derived its distinctive shape, it is said, from having been molded on the breast of the doomed French queen, Marie Antoinette.

The post doesn't say whether as you advance from infant to toddler to kindergartener restaurant Le Refuge des Fondus replaces the bottle first with a sippy cup and later with a juice box.