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Absinthe: It just made artists really really drunk

Posted by Devra First April 29, 2008 05:34 PM
absinthe1.jpg


In December, I wrote a story about absinthe, which had recently become available in Boston. Since 1912, there had been an effective ban on it, due to a substance called thujone. Thujone, found in the grand wormwood used to make absinthe, was said to be hallucinogenic and/or harmful, something modern-day absinthe experts and chemical researchers take issue with. Absinthe, nicknamed "la Fee Verte" (the green fairy), was favored in fin de siecle France, where the likes of Picasso, Toulouse-Lautrec, and Van Gogh imbibed it freely.

In the story, I quoted Dirk Lachenmeier, a scientist at the Chemical and Veterinary Investigation Laboratory of Karlsruhe in Germany who has studied absinthe extensively. "To my knowledge, a hallucinogenic potential . . . was never proven for thujone in any concentration," he said via e-mail. "The only proven effects are seizures (like epileptic fits) if thujone is ingested in high concentrations (unreachable with absinthe)."

Now Lachenmeier and his fellow researchers have analyzed 13 bottles of absinthe from the early 1900s, before the drink was banned. Their results are here and will appear in the May 14 issue of the Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry.

To sum up: Pre-ban absinthe contained about 70 percent alcohol, compared with the average vodka, gin, or whiskey's 40-50 percent. The study found relatively little thujone, about the same amounts as appear in modern absinthe. Those creative artists weren't hallucinating, they were just drunk.

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5 comments so far...
  1. "Now Lachenmeier and his fellow researchers"

    Who were his fellow researchers exactly? The science is flawed as they conveniently dismiss the notion that this terpene thujone would remain unchanged over a period of +100 years. This is clearly a paper inspired by modern day commercial and regulatory concerns.

    See: Karin M. H�ld, Nilantha S. Sirisoma, and John E. Casida
    www.sciencenews.org/articles/20000401/fob4.asp

    Posted by J.Bennett April 30, 08 04:10 AM
  1. An alternate viewpoint -- the nature of thujone has been hotly debated.

    Lachenmeier's fellow researchers are also scientists at the Chemical and Veterinary Investigation Laboratory of Karlsruhe.

    Posted by Devra First April 30, 08 10:42 AM
  1. Check out this video of a talk show host drinking absinthe. It didn't take her very long to start feeling it.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y8R2J24y_yw&eurl=http://wbal.com/stories/templates/elliker_show.aspx?articleid=5583&zoneid=11

    Posted by D. Brew April 30, 08 02:49 PM
  1. That's pretty funny. I can't tell if the camera crew was chugging the absinthe, too, or if they just thought it was hilarious how quickly the host got tipsy.

    Posted by Devra First April 30, 08 11:59 PM
  1. The full text of article can be accessed for free at:
    http://dx.doi.org/10.1021/jf703568f (open access).
    The researchers and affiliations are clearly shown.
    We dealt with the degradation of thujone on page 6. As previous studies had shown (see e.g. Refs. 14&24), thujone in ethanolic solutions under the typical storage conditions is very stable.
    The Höld et al. paper is interesting but did contain neither information on thujone in pre-ban absinthe nor insight into the degredation of thujone. Höld et al. researched the toxicology and metabolism of thujone under the assumption that it was "the active ingredient in absinthe," which is not the case, as we have now clearly proven.

    Posted by Dirk W. Lachenmeier May 6, 08 09:45 AM
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About Dishing What's cooking in the world of food.
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Sheryl Julian, the Globe's Food Editor, writes regularly for the Food section.
Devra First is the Globe's food reporter and restaurant critic. Her reviews appear weekly in the Food section.
Ann Cortissoz is on the staff of the Globe and writes the First Draft beer column for the Food section.
Stephen Meuse writes about wine for the Globe's Food section. His column on Plonk ($12 and under wines) appears on the last Wednesday of the month.
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