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Chicken and jojos

Posted by Devra First April 10, 2008 04:01 PM

It's been a few days since Sheryl blogged about her love of Portland, Oregon. (And since Steve blogged about the lack of salt at Paley's Place, which I wasn't that excited about either when I ate there last winter.)

I love Oregon, too. Here's why:

puppies.jpg

That's the Northwestern spirit! (The sign can be found at Vista House, a landmark on the way to Multnomah Falls.)

Lest you think that Portland is all seasonal, organic, local, and wholesome, let this dispel the illusion:

Chicken and jojos is a specialty of the Oregon coast. Here's how Oregon Coast Today explains the specialty:

"Both regulars and visitors to the Oregon Coast are in love with the hot, crunchy, aromatic potato dish that we call jo jos. Alternately sold as JoJos, jo jo potatoes and other similar names, they are offered at restaurants, convenience stores and taverns all over the central coast, a nostalgic treat for many people who vacationed here as children. But what are they, exactly, and what makes them so irresistible?

"We took an informal poll -- over a beer, naturally, at one of the jo jos' favorite hangouts, a tavern. We found that, at least in western Oregon, jo jos must be thick potato wedges, a) cut lengthwise, and b) covered with a light seasoned breading and c) served with ranch dressing or, if you must, ketchup. Jo jos are much bigger than French fries and usually bigger than steak fries, and unlike either, are cooked with their scrubbed skins on.

"And, while some places sell jo jos that have been baked, deep fried or otherwise cooked, the best have been prepared in a pressure fryer. It's a method that was popularized in the 1950s by the Broaster Company of Beloit, Wis. The company makes the official Broaster machine and patented marinade, as well as the rights to use the word "broasted," which was trademarked in 1954.

"But there are no licensed Broasters on the Oregon coast. What is commonly called 'broasting' is still practiced, with pressure fryers made by a variety of companies, including Henny Penny. In these units, raw potatoes are submerged in hot cooking oil, which is then sealed with a pressure-lock lid, for 10 to 15 minutes.

"According to most sources, the pressure keeps moisture in and oil on the surface, giving chicken, potatoes or any other food a crunchy exterior with less grease and fewer calories. It was designed to give a fried chicken taste without all the fat, and is often used on chicken pieces -- which are often served with a side of jo jos, fried in the same basket."

Yeah, that was long. I'm a little obsessed with regional treats like this, obscure in other parts of the country, particularly when the treat tastes like fried chicken but without all the fat.

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About Dishing What's cooking in the world of food.
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Sheryl Julian, the Globe's Food Editor, writes regularly for the Food section.
Devra First is the Globe's food reporter and restaurant critic. Her reviews appear weekly in the Food section.
Ann Cortissoz is on the staff of the Globe and writes the First Draft beer column for the Food section.
Stephen Meuse writes about wine for the Globe's Food section. His column on Plonk ($12 and under wines) appears on the last Wednesday of the month.
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