Egg obsession

These deviled eggs are on the menu at Hungry Mother, which Devra First reviewed this week. What eggs! They're garnished with house-cured bacon.
I think eggs are the perfect food -- portable, high in protein, a meal in an ovoid. I have my mother's deviled egg platter (a large glass round with about 18 indentations) and though I use it for buffets, I'd never dream of taking it on the road.

So I was intrigued when I saw this deviled eggs to go carrier. But I have a better system: Take your egg carton, snip off the top, and lay the deviled halves in the indentations. If you halve the eggs horizontally (as opposed to vertically, which makes two elongated halves), they'll fit perfectly.
Deviled eggs
Makes 24 halves
12 eggs
1/2 cup mayonnaise
4 scallions, finely chopped
1 tablespoon sweet pickle relish
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
Salt and black pepper, to taste
Paprika (for sprinkling)
1. Fill a pot large enough to hold the eggs in one layer with water. Bring the water to a boil. Use a straight pin to prick the rounded end of each egg. With a slotted spoon, lower them into the boiling water. Stir the water until it returns to a boil - this will help set the egg yolks in the center of the whites. Lower the heat so the water bubbles gently. Cook, uncovered, for 9 minutes exactly.
2. With a slotted spoon, transfer the eggs to a bowl of very cold water. Run cold water into the bowl while you crack each shell with the spoon. Peel a strip from each one so cold water can get under the shells. When the eggs are cold, peel them completely.
3. Halve them horizontally. Using a teaspoon, tip the yolks into a bowl. Mash together the yolks, mayonnaise, scallions, relish, mustard, cayenne, salt, and black pepper.
4. Cut a tiny slice off the rounded sides of the halves, so they sit flat on a platter. Spoon the yolk mixture into the halves. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to half a day. Sprinkle with paprika before serving. Sheryl Julian & Julie Riven
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Contributors
Sheryl Julian, the Globe's Food Editor, writes regularly for the Food section.Devra First is the Globe's food reporter and restaurant critic. Her reviews appear weekly in the Food section.
Stephen Meuse writes and blogs about wine. His column, By the Glass, appears on the last Wednesday of the month in the Food section. Plonkapalooza, his review of 50 bottles $12 and under, comes out every fall.







The reason that we shouldn't do that is cross contamination. They don't sterilize the eggs before they put them in the carton, therefore they can have small amounts of chicken poop and other yucky stuff on them. That gets on the carton, and if you lay deviled eggs in them, it can get in those eggs.