Beyond cupcakes at South End Buttery

I haven't been a huge fan of the Buttery in its original incarnation. I've encountered mediocre food, bad coffee, and surly staffers on too many visits to the bakery/cafe. Turns out maybe I'm just cranky in the daytime, because the crowds that annoy me in the morning seem enjoyable and festive in the evening. South End Buttery recently expanded and is now open at night as the Buttery Bar. I didn't really expect to, due to the cupcake-shaped chip on my shoulder, but I liked the place.

The food is pretty good -- nothing earth-shattering, just good, and without a lot of fanfare. Grilled figs and Serrano ham with Parmesan, for example, simple, tasty components in a satisfying combination. Or moules frites, made with tiny, not-so-plump mussels, unfortunately, but in a good broth with toasts for dipping, and served with frites that seem battered and deep-fried like the fish in fish 'n' chips. Strange, but appealing. Or grilled lamb with feta and tzatziki, fresh, Greek-influenced flavors (why don't more restaurants utilize Greek flavor combinations?).

The Buttery Bar is crowded, at least on the weekend. With everyone sitting so close together, you wind up talking to the uber food geek on your right or the German tourists on your left. (Would that guy give me a bite of his spice-rubbed cod? It looks good.) Somehow bumping elbows with your neighbors seems more agreeable over a glass of wine (or a beer or cocktail) than a latte. And the servers are downright friendly! Maybe the Buttery is better at winding down than winding up.