Scampo makes Esquire's best new restaurants list

Scampo's elephant ear walking, a bread almost as thin as a poppadum that's topped with tomato and melted cheese. (Pat Greenhouse/Globe Staff)

John Mariani writes:

"Two decades ago, at Seasons, Lydia Shire was at the forefront of 'New New England Cuisine,' and as her access to better local ingredients has grown, so has the authority of the menus at her successive haunts. At Scampo, located in a former prison transformed into the new Liberty Hotel (the bar doors still hang), she focuses on Boston's rich Italian-American heritage. With its brick walls and wooden floor, sports bar and open kitchen, the place rings with loud music and the joyful sounds of people passing around dishes like executive chef Mario Capone's spaghetti with cracklings and hot pepper. Don't miss the hazelnut risotto with sweetbreads and vin santo, the quail with a yellow-raisin sabayon and semolina gnocchi, or the massive black pig chop with a sweet spring-onion tart. Finish with a ricotta cheesecake with almond toffee and a shot of fiery grappa. If you can, get yourself seated in waiter Mario Depasquale's section -- his crazy exuberance sets exactly the right tone for a night at Scampo.

"The Liberty Hotel, 215 Charles Street; 857-241-1150; scampoboston.com."

Congrats to Shire, Capone, and crew. It's always good to see a local establishment on the list.