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The much discussed $18 French onion soup

Posted by Devra First October 2, 2008 09:05 AM

In yesterday's online chat about dining, this question was posed:

Bob_Dobalina__Guest_: There has been much debate about the Butcher Shop pricing a serving of French onion soup at $18! Obscene or reasonable in your opinion? And moreover, have you tried it?

(Much of said debate took place on Chowhound here.)

At the time, I had not tried the Butcher Shop's $18 French onion soup. But now I have. And I am here to report that it has become the $16 French onion soup.

And that is still a hefty price tag.

The soup is served in a white bowl with a large rim and a tiny basin. It's about 3/4 cup to 1 cup of soup. It's delicious, don't get me wrong: a deep brown liquid chock-full of caramelized onions and tender pieces of oxtail. So chock-full, I would have preferred more broth. But where is the cheese? Atop the soup floats one toasted slice of baguette, and melted on it is maybe a tablespoon of cheese.

In its favor, I will say the cheese does not overwhelm the flavor of the soup. But when I order French onion soup, I'm picturing a crock of soup topped with bread and a layer of thick melted cheese that covers the whole bowl, probably melting down the sides a bit. When you look at the Butcher Shop's version, you see brown soup with a little bread island floating in the middle; if you look closely you'll notice cheese on the bread. French onion soup for me is about the synthesis of broth and cheese; at the Butcher Shop, the cheese is but an accent, barely there. For $16 I wouldn't order it again.

But $16 is still better than $18.

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3 comments so far...
  1. If you want to talk about soups, you should check out the Stout Beef Stew on How2Heroes.com. It will make your mouth water with delight! And it costs you only your time to see this stew, no outrageous amounts of money!

    Posted by Exz October 2, 08 09:41 AM
  1. Nice plug for that website, but I post because the beef stew mentioned comes from Brent Mimeault of the Publick House. And it contains Samuel Smith's Imperial Stout. Mmm.

    Posted by Devra First October 2, 08 09:56 AM
  1. I was the one who started that thread on chowhound...and I am pretty sure it originally WAS an $18 soup....but when I walked by there the other day I noticed it was now *just* $16. Not surprised you wouldn't order it again. I wouldn't order it once!

    Posted by lori October 15, 08 03:18 PM
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Sheryl Julian, the Globe's Food Editor, writes regularly for the Food section.
Devra First is the Globe's food reporter and restaurant critic. Her reviews appear weekly in the Food section.
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Stephen Meuse writes about wine for the Globe's Food section. His column on Plonk ($12 and under wines) appears on the last Wednesday of the month.
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