In today's dining chat on boston.com, someone asked me the following:

"Do you peek at the popular food review sites like Chowhound.com or Yelp.com to get a feel for the general public perception, and if so does that influence your opinion or choice of places to review?"

I replied: "I generally try to avoid reading other reviews before I go to avoid pre-meal bias. It's impossible to avoid all chatter, though, in person or online. If someone tells me about a place they love, it piques my interest."

I addressed what I thought was the main question here, whether I look at other reviews before reviewing, not whether I ever look at Chowhound or Yelp.

Now there is a thread on Chowhound implying I've somehow evaded a question about whether I look at the board.

The answer: Of course I look at Chowhound, as well as Yelp, and every other online source pertaining to food in the Boston area (and many beyond). A food reporter would be foolish not to -- a city's worth of eyes (and mouths) are open, observing more than one person ever could on her own. To me, it's an extension of reading other newspapers, books, and magazines, and watching the news: a way of gathering information. Until after I write my own review, I do my best to avoid reading reviews of the restaurant in question, online or in other publications, so as to minimize bias. But all of these online sources can be incredibly useful, and I have learned about restaurants through them; when that's the case, I do my best to acknowledge that in print. I'm quite open about looking at them, as I've said here, here, here, and other places. I looked at Chowhound in particular long before I became the Globe's food critic.

The reason I address the issue now is that the Chowhound thread also implies I plagiarize from the board. This is untrue, and a serious accusation. Taking information from Chowhound verbatim, or even paraphrasing without acknowledgment, would be a major violation of journalistic ethics. Simply put, I would never do it. I could lose my job. Do I share some of the opinions of Chowhound posters? Yes. Do I completely disagree with others? Yes.

At any rate, I think it's an interesting conversation. In an analysis of pros, cons, and preferences of local critics, Boston magazine listed its own critic, Corby Kummer, then Chowhound, then other critics around town, in that order. [ADDENDUM: Oops! Sheryl points out they list the publications in alphabetical order.] (The mag also said I hate spicy food, which is totally wrong, but that's OK.) The online world makes the discussion of restaurants a much more democratic thing than it was in the past, when restaurant critics dictated opinion. Isn't that a good thing? As I've gone on the record saying in this very context:

"Here's to a plurality of opinion about food in this city. It makes it a richer, more interesting place to eat."

What do you think about all this? Have Chowhound, Yelp, and other such online sources shaped how and where you eat?

This picture illustrates why I had to make soup this afternoon. Here is a quick, easy, satisfying recipe for chicken-barley soup. If you don't like barley, you can use rice or noodles instead. Just time their addition to the pot appropriately -- the chicken soup should cook an hour or so total.

Chicken-barley soup

1 onion, chopped coarsely
3-4 carrots, peeled and cut into rounds
3-4 stalks celery, chopped coarsely
Big handful flat-leaf parsley leaves
1 chicken
Salt to taste
10-12 cups water
3/4-1 cup barley
Pepper to taste

1. Put vegetables, parsley, chicken, and salt in a soup pot.
2. Add water.
3. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, cover, and simmer for 30 minutes or so. Stir occasionally.
4. Add barley then simmer, covered, 30 more minutes. Stir occasionally.
5. Remove chicken and let cool. Pull meat from bones, shred, and stir into pot. Get rid of bones and skin.
6. Add more salt if needed and pepper to taste.

Adapted from "The Gourmet Cookbook" (where it's made with brown rice)

Here's a food-related blast from the past for you: Rita Moreno and Morgan Freeman perform "The Menu Song," written by Tom Lehrer and arranged by Joe Raposo, on "The Electric Company."

Tune in at 11 a.m. on Wednesday, Dec. 31, to talk about food and restaurants. What was your favorite meal of 2008? What do you hope to see on Boston's restaurant scene in 2009? Tune in and we'll discuss.

Note: Please post questions directly on the live chat, not in the "add your comment" box.

This happy young woman is Megan Reidy, a student at Newbury College's Roger A. Saunders School of Hotel and Restaurant Management, who won a prize for her roasted-garlic tomato sauce. Her name is now on a plaque in one of the teaching kitchens. Megan is looking for a career in a large hotel, and is deciding on an internship.

If her tomato sauce lands on a menu in Boston, we'll let you know.

Roasted garlic tomato sauce
Serves 4

6 cloves garlic, peeled
Olive oil (for sprinkling)
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 medium onion, chopped
2 cups canned crushed tomatoes
2 cups canned diced tomatoes
1/4 teaspoon dried basil
1/4 teaspoon dried oregano
Pinch of crushed red peppers
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
1 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme

1. Set the oven at 350 degrees.
2. Remove the root ends of the garlic. Set the cloves in a small baking dish. Sprinkle with oil. Roast for 45 to 60 minutes or until the garlic is very tender. Leave to cool; chop finely.
3. In a saucepan, heat the oil. Cook the onion, stirring often, for 5 minutes. Add the dried basil, oregano, and red peppers. Cook, stirring, for 1 minute.
4. Add the garlic, crushed and diced tomatoes, and salt. Simmer, stirring occasionally, for 1 hour.
5. Add the parsley, fresh basil, and thyme. Continue cooking for 5 minutes. Megan Reidy

Ever since I saw this photo and recipe on the Washington Post's online food section, I've wanted to make it. It comes from Boston Globe contributor Debra Samuels's new book, "The Korean Table."

Last night, I had a bowl (well, to be honest, I had three bowls) at Deb's house. The pork bones make an incredibly flavorful broth, which simmers with kimchee; near the end of cooking cubes of tofu go in and they plump in the hot red liquid.

We ate with Japanese chopsticks, long-handled Korean spoons, and used Korean seaweed to wrap around rice (Deb's husband Dick explained that the Korean version of the crisp green seaweed is seasoned with sesame oil before it's toasted, which adds to the flavor). Can't wait to make this! It's the antidote to rich holiday food and a spreading waistline.

Kimchee hot pot
Serves 4

1 pound bone-in country-style pork ribs
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 1/2 cups store-bought cabbage kimchi, coarsely chopped
3 tablespoons of liquid from kimchi jar
1 tablespoon dark sesame oil
2 1/2 cups water or beef stock
14 to 15 ounces firm tofu, drained and cut into 1-inch cubes
2 scallions, cut into 2-inch pieces and crushed with the side of a knife

1. Without trimming the meat, cut it into large chunks, making cuts between the bones. Mash the garlic with the side of a large knife to form a paste.
2. In a large Dutch oven, heat the oil over medium heat. Cook the pork, garlic, kimchi, and liquid from the jar for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the pork is lightly browned on all sides.
3. Add the water or stock. Lower the heat, and cook, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes.
4. Add the tofu. Cook 10 minutes more, stirring gently once or twice.
5. Add the scallions. Adapted from "The Korean Table"

Christmas Day is past, but there are still plenty of reasons for celebrating left between now and Jan. 6: there are still some of the twelve days of Christmas left, there's New Year's Eve and New Year's Day, there's Twelfth Night, and there's Three Kings Day.

So, in the spirit of the season and of Brewhaha, the new Food section feature where I recommend some of the best beers to be found for under $15, I'll be posting descriptions of some ales, porters, stouts, and barley wines that I didn't have room to put in the first column but that would be great to bring to your next holiday celebration.

Norrebros Julebryg is a holiday beer from the Norrebro Bryghus in Denmark. I don't speak Danish, but I'm guessing that Julebryg translates as Yule beer (and I just love saying and typing Julebryg).

The label says "brewed with spices," a piece of information that generally makes me run screaming in the opposite direction, because I'm not a fan of beer that tastes like a mouthful of mince pie. But I was really pleasantly surprised by the Julebryg. There's just a hint of malty sweetness, with flavors of caramel and cocoa, and undertones of peppery allspice and cloves. It's medium-bodied with good carbonation and a dry, tingly, festive finish.

It doesn't taste like a mouthful of mince pie, but it would go really well with a slice of it, or with a game bird, a hearty stew, or a pungent Danish cheese.

The Julebryg is about $13 for a 25-ounce bottle. Check with your local liquor store.

I cooked up a storm for the last several days, with lots of guests and good fun all around.

This is a favorite dish, potato tortilla, which I learned in Spain a couple of years ago.

Marinated olives with orange and thyme:

Armenian cuke and tomato salad:

Spicy roasted pumpkin seeds:

Almond biscotti (my co-author Julie Riven's recipe):

Chocolate-chip brownies (courtesy of Globe contributor Lisa Yockelson):

My friend Ingrid's linzer torte:

Going to the gym now.

Recently, out to dinner at a very nice restaurant, our meal was accompanied by carols. They were loud, they were constant, they were undiluted: not sprinkled in among jazz standards, not even mixed up with semi-secular songs about snowmen and chestnuts. It was a meal-long medley of religious Christmas music.

Twas the night before the night before Christmas, to be sure. And these songs are beautiful. But after listening to non-stop holiday music in every store I'd been in since Thanksgiving, I wished I could just eat my beet terrine and duck without Mario Lanza belting "Joy to the World" directly into my ear. It seemed presumptuous for the restaurant to assume every patron would enjoy this aural celebration of Christianity; then again, perhaps playing music in a restaurant is always an act of presumption.

What do you think? Do Christmas carols and fine dining belong together? Or should there be a separation of church and steak frites?

We just ran this story about a bunch of local chefs getting together to prepare the traditional Italian Feast of Seven Fishes, the Christmas Eve meal.

If you'd like to experience the feast yourself but don't feel like doing the cooking, here are some places offering their own versions:

Bricco, $85, 617-248-6800.

Dante, $75, 4-9 p.m. 617-497-4200.

Davio's, $65, 5-9 p.m. 617-357-4810.

Grotto, $65, 5-10 p.m., 617-227-3434.

Mare, $85, 617-723-6273.

Trattoria il Panino, $55, 617-720-1336.

IMHO, the Oprah on the right looks fabulous. But everyone knows that once you get your weight down and then it crawls back up, you do feel bad. Oprah writes in the January issue that she's 160 in the left photo, 40 pounds heavier today, or "the dreaded 2-0-0."

In the same issue is a list of seven must-have pantry items:

Spanish or Italian tuna (packed in olive oil)
Passato di pomodoro (sweet-tangy tomato paste)
Harissa (North African hot pepper paste)
Mediterranean olives
Spanish piquillo peppers
Chickpeas
Capers in salt

They offer a recipe for chickpea and olive salad, another for fava bean puree, peppers stuffed with tuna, pork ribs with chilies, roast chicken with harissa, chickpea flatbreads, and wholewheat spaghetti with caper pesto.

We had a discussion at our food meeting last week about wholewheat pasta. We essentially voted it out of our pantry. Not one person likes it.

Come January, and our own dreaded numbers on the scale, wholewheat pasta might just look good.

Last week, actor Jeremy Piven bowed out of a Broadway production of David Mamet's "Speed-the-Plow," citing exhaustion due to an elevated mercury count.

How did his mercury count get so high? From eating sushi and taking Chinese herbs, according to his doctor, Carlon Colker.

Never mind the herbs for now. How much sushi would you have to eat in order to endanger your health?

Media contacts from the FDA and EPA haven't returned calls, but I did speak with several people at those organizations off the record. Could this happen? Yes, they said, but it would not be due to binge sushi eating. Rather, mercury builds up in a person's system over time. Through, say, the eating of sushi twice a day, as Piven apparently was in the habit of doing. (Hollywood!)

Many have reacted skeptically to Piven's announcement. Mamet said, "My understanding is that he is leaving show business to pursue a career as a thermometer."

Could the actor be on the up-and-up, or did he simply cook up the sushi excuse to get out of doing the play?

Using the Natural Resources Defense Council's handy mercury calculator, we figured out his risk.

First you enter your weight. We're guessing; he seems to have been at 158 in February 2007, so we'll put him at that.

Then let's say this alleged sushi fanatic consumed mackerel, oysters, salmon, scallops, shrimp, yellowtail, and maguro last week. We'll say he ate six small servings (3 ounces) of each over the course of the week, a conservative estimate if he really ate sushi 14 times.

The results, in the words of the calculator:

"Your Estimated Mercury Intake is Significantly Above the 'Safety Zone'

"Your mercury intake this week averaged 2.01 micrograms per kilogram per day, which is significantly above the maximum mercury intake that the Environmental Protection Agency considers to be safe -- 0.1 micrograms per kilograms per day.

"Mercury can have adverse effects on brain development, and may also affect the heart. Scientists don’t yet fully understand how mercury intake slightly above the safety level affects our health, but it’s clear that the lower the mercury intake, the better. If you are a healthy adult who is not planning a pregnancy within the next six months, an elevated mercury intake may be less cause for concern than it would be for a pregnant woman or young child. If you are pregnant or are planning to become pregnant you can reduce your mercury level by avoiding fish that contain significant amounts of mercury. Remember that this calculation is only an estimate and should not be considered definitive. The estimate does not predict any risk to you or your family. If you are concerned about the calculator’s results or wish to get a more accurate reading through a blood mercury test, you should talk to your doctor."

The moral of the story: Don't make sushi your primary food group. And if you're looking to get out of something without attracting a large amount of attention, just say you have the flu.

G had its annual holiday lunch yesterday and I grabbed my camera to shoot the food before the troops dug in.

I made deviled eggs -- I knew I had the fixings around. It turns out I didn't have enough eggs or mayonnaise, so I went ahead and cooked the eggs I had on hand the night before, ran out for mayo the next morning, and piped the rest of the curried yolks onto little logs of cucumber.

Arts Editor Scott Heller's kugel:

Movies Editor Thomasine Berg's roasted Brussels sprouts and asparagus:

Web guru Michael Saunders's sweet potato pudding:

Reporter Joey Kahn's very popular turkey chili (as you can see, the guests got to it before I did):

Theatre critic Louise Kennedy's oatmeal crisps (courtesy of Martha Stewart):

Turkey and sausage chili
Serves 10

4 tablespoons vegetable oil
4 Spanish onions, chopped
2 pounds mixed hot and sweet turkey (or chicken) sausage, removed from casing and crumbled
3 pounds ground turkey
4 cloves garlic, chopped
1 can (12 ounces) tomato paste
2 tablespoons ground cumin
2 tablespoons chili powder
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons each dried basil and oregano
1/2 cup red wine
2 cans (28 ounces each) plum tomatoes, crushed by hand
2 cans (16 ounces each) kidney beans, drained
Juice of 1 lemon
1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro
Salt and pepper, to taste
3 cups shredded cheddar (for sprinkling)
1 cup chopped scallions (for serving)
2 cups sour cream (for serving)

1. In a large heavy-based casserole, heat the oil. Cook the onions over medium heat, stirring often, for 10 minutes.
2. Add the crumbled sausage and cook for 3 minutes, stirring to break the pieces up even more.
3. Add the ground turkey and garlic. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes.
4. Stir in the tomato paste, cumin, chili powder, mustard, basil, and oregano. Pour in the wine and tomatoes and stir thoroughly. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, and cook the mixture, stirring occasionally, for 15 minutes.
5. Add the kidney beans, lemon juice, cilantro, salt, and pepper. Continue cooking for 15 minutes.
6. Spoon the chili into deep bowls, sprinkle with cheese, and pass scallions and sour cream. Adapted from "The Silver Palate Cookbook"

Food section contributor Beatrice Peltre (who is very pregnant) is making little potato nests filled with apple-crab in this video, shot in her kitchen. Bea, I want some!

The restaurateur/Food Network dude/cookbook author is opening two restaurants in partnership with Mohegan Sun. Bobby’s Burger Palace and Bar Americain are scheduled to open in summer 2009.

Burger Palace, natch, offers an array of burgers; they're inspired by Flay’s travels through the US. I want the Crunch Burger, with double American cheese and potato chips on the burger! (Big fan of potato chips actually inserted into sandwiches; apparently any burger here can be "crunchified.") As for Bar Americain, it's the second branch; the first one, in New York, is an "ode to regional American cuisine," serving steaks, buttermilk fried chicken, duck with dirty wild rice, etc.

They sound like solid concepts. The real bet is on the casino industry itself. With people gambling less due to the recession, it's in trouble.

Writer, photographer, sculptor, and cook Franco Romagnoli died yesterday. Among his many achievements was a television show with his late wife, Margaret, several books, and restaurants. The Rome native married his present wife, Gwen in 1998 and they lived recently in an apartment overlooking the Charles River surrounded by the tiny wire sculptures Franco made -- extraordinary pieces.

Some years ago, my co-author Julie Riven and I made gnocchi with Franco in his house in Watertown. He rolled them under his palms like they really were ropes, instead of fragile potato dough, dropped them into simmering water, and offered us his feathery puffs with a little cheese.

Franco was special in many ways. He had a remarkable eye and photos he shot of famous Europeans were also in his house. He originally came here to work as a documentary filmmaker at WGBH; he met Margaret and switched careers. He had been ill for some time and was nursed by Gwen, who was always by his side.

When Julie and I visited them, we noticed a very long wood table in their kitchen. Franco arranged the gnocchi on plates, poured wine, and sat down. The table, he said, "comes from a monkery."

"Monastery," whispered Gwen.

Then he told us that as a television chef, he used so many words incorrectly that viewers complained they couldn't understand him. "I just let it rip," he said.

Ricotta-spinach gnocchi
Serves 6

Shape these spinach dumplings by hand. Cook the gnocchi in water and serve them bathed in butter and Parmesan cheese.

GNOCCHI
1 package (10 ounces) frozen chopped spinach
1 pound whole-milk ricotta cheese
1 egg
1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
3/4 cup flour
Extra flour (for shaping)

1. In a saucepan, bring 2 quarts of water to a boil. Add the spinach and cook for 5 minutes. Drain the spinach through a fine-mesh strainer. When it is cool enough to handle, press and squeeze the spinach to remove as much water as possible. Wrap the spinach in a clean kitchen towel (use one that you don't mind turning green) and twist it until all the water stops dripping.
2. Bring a large pan of salted water to a boil.
3. In a bowl, combine the ricotta and the spinach. Stir well to blend them. Add the egg, nutmeg, and salt and stir again. Stir in the Parmesan and 1/2 cup of the flour and mix until well blended.
4. Put the remaining flour on a plate. Flour your hands and scoop up a tablespoon of the dough. Roll it in your hands until you have a dumpling about the size of a walnut. Roll the dumpling on the plate to coat it lightly with flour.
5. You may need a little more flour and Parmesan. To test the dumpling, drop one into the boiling water to see if it holds its shape. If so, continue making dumplings until you've used all of the mixture. If not, add a little more cheese or flour to make the mixture more firm.
6. Line the shaped dumplings in one layer on a well-floured baking sheet. Let the dumplings rest uncovered for 30 minutes to dry out slightly.

TO SERVE
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

1. Bring 4 quarts of salted water to a boil. Add the gnocchi, a few at a time. Continue adding the dumplings slowly so that the water continues at a gentle boil. When the gnocchi are almost cooked, they will rise to the surface. Continue cooking for 1 minute more.
2. Use a large skimmer or slotted spoon to scoop the gnocchi from the water. Transfer them to 6 deep bowls. Pour the butter over them and sprinkle with Parmesan. Franco Romagnoli

There's something about "Park Avenue Potluck: Recipes from New York's Savviest Hostesses" that makes you not want to like it. The book comes with stories of summer homes, photographs of tables that might have been set at Tiffany's, and recipes from women like Muffie Potter Aston (chicken with mustard and lemon, a dish she made for the boyfriend who became her husband).

You get the idea that few people in this book have actually stepped into a kitchen to stir a pot. Yet the recipes are accessible, homey, and easy. The ladies are all members of the Society of Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center and they've donated the proceeds to that organization.

I found several dishes I'll make: turkey tonnato, which is turkey breast served with the famous Italian tuna and caper sauce; lemon spaghetti with shrimp; cardamom-scented lamb stew; and yes, Muffie's chicken (curious to see what dish can catch a man). And this hearty pot roast from Emily Sonnenblick and Ken Offit, which is something like a sauerbraten. It originally came from a mom at the Park School (where Emily went).

Holiday pot roast
Serves 8

1/4 cup dark brown sugar
1 cup cider vinegar
2 cups tomato puree
1 tablespoon salt
1/4 cup soy sauce
Black pepper, to taste
1 teaspoon crushed red pepper
2 bay leaves
1 rump roast, brisket, or chuck roast (4 pounds)
4 medium onions, thinly sliced

1. In a large bowl, combine the brown sugar, vinegar, tomato puree, salt, soy sauce, black and red pepper, and bay leaves.
2. Place the meat in a heavy 1-gallon plastic zipper bag. Pour the marinade into the bag and zip it closed. Place the bag in a bowl and refrigerate for at least overnight or for up to 3 days, turning from time to time.
3. Let the meat come to room temperature. Set the oven at 300 degrees.
4. In a large ovenproof casserole, place the meat and marinade. Scatter the onions on top. Bake, uncovered, for 4 hours, turning the meat every 30 minutes, or until it is tender.
5. Remove the meat from the sauce and place on a cutting board. Puree the sauce with or without the onions. Reheat the sauce in a saucepan. Taste for seasoning and add more salt and black pepper, if you like.
6. Slice the meat and arrange it on a deep platter. Spoon some of the sauce over the meat and pass the rest separately. Adapted from "Park Avenue Potluck"

A little box arrived in the mail yesterday. It was from my father, who recently returned from Zurich. An intriguing note adorned it, saying: "To enjoy as soon as possible" in three languages. What could be inside?

Many little cookies! (Some got a bit squashed in transit.) They're Luxemburgerli, Zurich's version of French macarons, made by the Confiserie Sprungli. They are an evanescent pleasure, the cookie light and airy and delicate as an eggshell. They are filled with cream and have a shelf life of about 3 minutes.

So I followed the directions and enjoyed as soon as possible. When told to do something in three languages, I do it. (I may also have had a few for breakfast this morning.) They crumble in your teeth like meringue, then melt away. They surprised me by containing alcohol (yes, for breakfast, on a Tuesday -- very decadent). One tasted distinctly of cognac, another of champagne. They also seem to come in caramel, mocha, citron, raspberry, hazelnut, vanilla, and chocolate. I haven't sampled all of those yet. I loved the pretty gold one.

I'll save this guy for you.

Tune in at 11 a.m. on Wednesday, Dec. 17, to talk about food and restaurants. (Note: The chat time has changed from noon to 11 a.m.) Please post questions directly on the live chat, not in the "add your comment" box.

Local artist and teacher Jason Chase (the husband of a colleague) asked his design students at Bristol Community College to come up with black and white cereal boxes for their end-of-semester project. They're much more interesting than what's on supermarkets shelves. I mean, who wouldn't want Lumber Jack cereal cut by this gentleman?

Here's another:

And the whole lot:

They make Kashi look just as dull as it is.

It was big news: Le Grand Vefour chef Guy Martin, he of the Michelin stars and French culinary honors, was coming to Boston. He would open a restaurant in the Regent Boston Hotel at Battery Wharf called Sensing, modeled after his restaurant of the same name in Paris.

It was first slated to open in the spring, but it didn't. Nor did the Regent. It looked like we might never see Sensing. (In March, Le Grand Vefour lost its third Michelin star, furthering the idea Martin might stay in Paris to whip things back into shape.)

Then Fairmont Hotels & Resorts stepped in. Fairmont Battery Wharf opens today. But what of the restaurant?

Sensing is still on, with a planned opening date in mid-January, according to regional PR director Suzanne Wenz. The menu will feature seasonal New England ingredients; it will have an open kitchen, a chef's table, and outdoor seating.

It will also have Martin. Sometimes. "Guy Martin will be involved with the restaurant on an ongoing basis," Wenz says. He'll be in Boston in January, and again throughout the year. Wenz reports that the local chef is Girard Babin, who trained with Martin in Paris.

Cambridge Indian restaurant Haveli celebrates its 10th anniversary in January. As part of the celebration, women can get henna "tattoos" along with their meals on Tuesdays, tomorrow through Jan. 27.

Painting henna designs on the body is a traditional way to celebrate festivals and occasions. Small designs are $6, large designs $12.

Haveli, 1248-50 Cambridge St., Cambridge; 617-497-6548.

Tremont 647 celebrates its 12th anniversary on Monday from 6-9 p.m. There will be food and cocktails, of course, but you can also witness a horrifying/awesome event:

The momo-eating contest.

Eight contestants will compete to see who can consume the most of these pork-filled dumplings, chef Andy Husbands's interpretation of a traditional Tibetan dish.

The event is $40 per person.

Tremont 647, 647 Tremont St., South End. 617-266-4600.

That's Korean Fried Chicken, of course.

When The New York Times ran this story last year, Boston readers were tantalized by the idea of Korean-style fried chicken. Where could we get the crisp-skinned wings and drumsticks brushed in spicy red sauce and served with pickled radish?

With Privus Lounge now adding Korean-style fried chicken to its menu, Allston has clearly become the Boston-area mecca for the dish. You can also get it at Color and Buk Kyung II.

Privus seems pretty serious about the dish, offering it in four sizes, either all wings, all drumsticks, or a combo of both. Prices range from $9.95 for a small to $31.95 for an extra large (= 40 wings, 20 drumsticks, or 20 wings + 10 drumsticks. Party!). The loungestaurant also serves one of the better Korean seafood pancakes to be found in these parts.

Privus Lounge, 165 Brighton Ave., Allston. 617-787-7483.

Color, 166 Harvard Ave., Allston. 617-787-5656.

Buk Kyung II, 151 Brighton Ave., Allston. 617-254-2775.

If you're an artist, or just so inspired by your love of Pabst Blue Ribbon that you need to express your feelings somehow, it's not too late to enter the PBR Art Contest (this is one of the images you'll find on the website).

Four Grand Prize winners will receive $1893 in cash and one year of PBR. Four runners-up get exactly $631 and 4 months worth of beer.

Entries are being accepted in four categories: painting, photography, sculpture, and poetry.

A PBR logo or beer can has to be part of the painting or photo entries.

The sculpture entries "must be constructed primarily of Pabst Blue Ribbon packaging including empty cans, empty bottles, cartons or other packaging. An additional secondary material may be used as support or framework."

And the poetry "should be a written piece of no more than 250 words that captures the spirit of the PBR brand."

To enter the contest (or just to see some cool art), go to the PBR website. Deadline is Dec. 31.

Restaurants are looking for strategies to bring in diners during tough economic times, and this one is literal. If you live in the greater Boston area, Fleming's steakhouse will now pick you up at your house in a Mercedes Crossover and drive you home again after your meal.

With the weather getting nastier and cab fare getting scarcer, this could be an appealing option, sort of like the reverse of getting food delivered to your door. It's also great for those who like to liberally sample those big steakhouse reds.

You can get just about any chocolate candies sold nationwide (including these salted chocolate caramels) at the chocolate.com website. Local vendors include Harvard Sweet Boutique of Harvard; Harbor Sweets of Salem; Bloomsberry & Co., also in Salem; Geoff & Drew’s in Malden; Wellfleet Candy Co. on Cape Cod; and Robins Chocolate Sauce of Fort Fairfield, Maine.

My personal favorite, Enstrom's dark chocolate toffee doesn't seem to be on the website. But I never order it anyway. It comes from a favorite family every year, around this time.

Clio chef Ken Oringer hosted Ferran Adria for dinner last night. Here's the menu. No word on whether they're all still over there eating.

Caviar fritter, California payusnaya

Hoya, Pickled Peach, Cauliflower and Cognac AÏoli

O-Toro Tartar, Quail Egg and Nori Emulsion

Akayagarra and Akashi Tai
Liver soy, ponzu and fresh wasabi

Goeduck Clam and Crispy Duck Tongues
sudashi lime, shiso flowers and sushi rice sorbet

Pico Rocco au Naturel, Pickled Mustard Seeds and Seagrapes

Yuzu Gelée
black olive dust, mint, olive oil ice cream, tomato jam

Tairagai
cinnamon bark, persimmon and crunchy soy beans

Cassolette of Live Santa Barbara Sea Urchin, Lobster and Nantucket Bay Scallops
parsnip milk and crispy shallots

Shark Fin Hot Pot
king crab, pig ears terrine and yellow chives

Sauteed Abalone Grenobloise
roasted lemon, golden raisins, brown butter powder, capers and parsley

White Curry Tripe
spicy coconut, galanga and black cardamom

Black Truffle Fondue
celery root mousseline and bitter cocoa

White Truffle
candy maple, parmesan cheese and morcilla

Wild Burgundy Escargots
pumpernickel, habanero and jaggary

En croûte of Black Truffle, Cocks Combs, Forgotten Vegetables in Hen Broth

Consommé of the Forest
wood pigeon, pine and matsutake mushrooms

Duo of Foie gras
Terrine with Texture of Concord Grapes, Menthol and Fennel Berries
Lacquered with Buddha’s Hands, Hibiscus and Bee Pollen

Venison Cooked in Espresso
cocoa crumble, uchiki kuri squash and yogurt

Vacherin Mont D’or
pain d’epices and rosehips,

Aged goat Cheese Emulsion and Fresh Goat Cheese Snow
pistachio and green tomato chutney

Liquid Pumpkin Pie and Brown Butter Toffee

Mandarin Capsule
sassafras ice cream, burnt orange and shortbread

Milk Chocolate Geode
hazelnut ice cream, lemon foam, coffee streusel and fennel pollen

Clio Chicorée Eggnog

Durian Milk Shake

Frozen Maple Syrup, Chicharon, Teeccino

Salted Peanut Chocolate and Poke Stick

Black Sesame Argan Financier, Goji Berry and Yogurt
Smores Brochette
Green Tea Cotton Candy, Exotic Citrus, Amethyst Clusters

Chartreuse Elixir with Black Licorice

I wish I'd realized this earlier, but better late than never.

Ferran Adria's 6:30 talk at Harvard will be simulcast online.

Click here for the link.

Samples of Clayhouse Adobe White and Adobe Red recently came my way. They're made by David Frick at the Clayhouse Vineyard winery in California's Central Coast. They're nicely put together and -- at around $15 -- represent very good value. I really enjoyed them.

It was only later while thumbing through information about the wines that I read the saga of princess, an odd little grape variety used by Frick in the blend (there's a parcel of it on Clayhouse property) that the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB), knowing full well that it is present, refuses to allow him to list on the label.

Princess, it seems, is not an approved wine-making grape in the U.S. But that doesn't mean you can't use to make wine, it just means that if you do use it you can't say you did on a wine label. Feeling dizzy yet?

I trooped down to the recycle bin to have another look at the bottle. The label names four grapes in the Adobe White cuvee (chenin blanc, chardonnay, roussanne, viognier) and tells you what percentage each contributes. Add up the percentages and you get . . . 88. No mention whatever of princess, which apparently makes up the missing 12%.

Who's the scofflaw here? Not Clayhouse, which had every intention of making full disclosure. It seems rather to be the TTB which, despite rules that certain grapes cannot be used to make wine will turn a blind eye so long as the consumer is kept in the dark.

Clayhouse has petitioned the TTB to add princess to the list of varietal names allowed to appear on a wine label. The TTB responded with a letter indicating they were inclined to approve princess as a grape variety name for American wines, but since the word is already approved for use on brand labels -- though not to refer to a grape variety -- they are holding it up for now

Princess, apparently, has become a royal pain.

From Bon Appetit's January issue comes a list of trends for 2009 that includes luxury for less (duh), peanut butter desserts (should have been on last year's list), breakfast (two years ago, if not three), cuisines of the South and Lima, Peru (we're for the South), bargain bottles (everyone is joining the Plonk of the Month bandwagon), anything with an egg on top (yes!), and homemade ricotta.

This last dish is so good homemade and so easy, that you have to wonder why more people don't do it. Here's a recipe from New York chef Andrew Carmellini.

Homemade ricotta
Makes 1 1/2 cups

It takes half a gallon of milk to produce 1 1/2 cups of fresh ricotta. For the moistest, lightest consistency, let the curds drain only as long as instructed here. Serve fresh ricotta over penne and add fresh herbs or spoon the mixture onto crusty bread and drizzle with honey.

8 cups whole milk
1 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons lemon juice

1. Line a colander with 4 layers of cheesecloth; set it in a large bowl.
2. In a large heavy saucepan, combine the milk and salt. Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Stir in the lemon juice. Let the mixture simmer for 1 to 2 minutes or until curds form.
3. Using a finely slotted spoon or skimmer, scoop curds from the pan and transfer to the cheesecloth-lined colander. Leave to drain for 1 minute (curds will still be a little wet).
4. Transfer curds to a bowl. Cover and chill for 3 hours or until cold. Adapted from Andrew Carmellini

British cooks take bits and pieces of cheese left from the week's cooking and grate them into a spread. They often call it "potted cheese" and it usually contains a little butter, Worcestershire sauce, and cayenne pepper. I made some this weekend with cheddar and feta, and sprinkled the top with paprika. It's more old-fashioned than a cheese ball and pretty instant.

Two days later: For those who wrote in to ask how to make the magical swirls on top, here's my trick: use a blunt butter knife (without ridges) or a small, thin metal spatula. First smooth the top of the spread so it's level. Starting at a point on the bowl farthest from you, and holding the knife about 3-inches from the blunt end, make a small line -- like a spoke in a wheel -- from the edge to the center. Without removing your knife from the spread, drag it over about 1/2-inch and make another small line. Continue in this way, turning the bowl slowly, until you reach the end. You should have scalloped edges with a dozen or so spokes going into the center. Don't be discouraged if it doesn't look good the first time. Just smooth and top and begin again.

Cheese spread
Makes enough for 4 gifts

3/4 pound sharp cheddar, grated (3 cups)
1/4 pound goat, feta, or Camembert cheese, crumbled or cut up (about 3/4 cup)
2 tablespoons butter, at room temperature
1 heaping tablespoon Dijon mustard
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper, or to taste
1/4 teaspoon salt, or to taste

1. In a food processor, combine the cheeses, butter, mustard, cayenne, and salt. Pulse the mixture until it is smooth and spreadable. Taste for seasoning and add more cayenne or salt, if you like.
2. Divide the mixture among 4 ramekins or custard cups (1/2 cup capacity each), smooth the tops, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 1 day for the flavors to mellow. Sheryl Julian

Its Boston Public days are over, and the restaurant in Louis Boston is now serving under its old name, this time with Marc Orfaly as chef. Hours are 11:30 a.m. to 7 p.m. 10 p.m. (Thought 7 seemed a little early.) Here's the menu they sent:

appetizers:
thai cobb salad with tahini dressing 15
steamed or fried shrimp & chive dumplings 18
sure, we have a few greens as a simple salad! 13
crispy kobe beef & foie gras dumplings 19
nantucket bay scallops, squash tortelloni, tiny tomatoes 20

two soups:
maria’s creamless cauliflower soup, steamed mussels 18
from time to time there is a second soup MKT

pasta:
spaghetti con pomodoro 18
linguini alla littleneck clams ‘white’ 28

entrée:
louis prime angus burger, garden vegetables, frites 14
halibut ‘en croute,’ braised asian greens, coconut steamed jasmine rice, curry emulsion 32
chicken milanese hot house tomatoes, wild arugula 27
scallop crusted black bass fillet, crispy tofu, forest chinese mushrooms, miso broth 35
unfashionable charbroiled angus sirloin, frites, creamed baby spinach, herb butter 38

a couple of odd things:
48 hour slow cooked beef short rib, stewed kimchee 28
jumbo stuffed artichoke heart, squab breast, port olive sauce 30
lime marinated hamachi, nori cured torchon, lentil pancakes, curried apple chutney 22
char siu pork house fried rice 25

What do you think about dishes with names such as "sure, we have a few greens as a simple salad!" (and that at $13, rather than, say, $7) and "unfashionable charbroiled angus sirloin, frites, creamed baby spinach, herb butter" (and are you willing to pay $38 for something unfashionable)? Do you find them charming or cutesy? I'm sort of torn.

Anyway, the food sounds nice!

Time.com both praised and scolded Gourmet editor Ruth Reichl in their "Top 10 of Everything of 2008" food list. Apparently she sends out a weekly e-mail telling friends what she's been eating.

"Generally her dispatches flag high-priced items like $12 candy bars," writes time.com, "but in her message on Oct. 9, as the markets were panicking, Reichl noted that she had made this cheap meatloaf the night before. It includes regular ketchup, not some exotic tomato paste available only by mail order from Italy."

Even high-priced restaurateurs are catching on to offering sensible portions with affordable prices. So time.com gave an award to recession dining. Here is Reichl's meatloaf, which she unearthed from a January 2003 magazine. Rather than dipping into recipes from the last recession, she might have been watching her waistline. Always good to do.

Turkey meatloaf
Serves 6

1 teaspoon olive oil, and more for the pan
1 onion, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
1 medium carrot, cut into 1/8-inch dice
3/4 pound cremini mushrooms, trimmed and very finely chopped
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1 1/2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
1/3 cup finely chopped fresh parsley
5 tablespoons ketchup
1 cup fine fresh bread crumbs (from 2 slices firm white sandwich bread)
1/3 cup 1 percent milk
1 egg, lightly beaten with 1 extra egg white
1 1/4 pounds ground turkey (mixture of dark and light meat)

1. Set the oven at 400 degrees. Have on hand a 9-by-13-inch metal baking pan. Oil it lightly.
2. In a large nonstick skillet over medium heat, heat the oil. When it is hot, add the onion and garlic. Cook, stirring often, for 2 minutes or until the onion softens.
3. Add the carrot and cook, stirring, for 3 minutes or until it softens. Add the mushrooms, 1/2 teaspoon of the salt, and 1/4 teaspoon of the pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 10 to 15 minutes or until the mushrooms release their liquid and it evaporates.
4. Stir in the Worcestershire sauce, parsley, and 3 tablespoons of the ketchup, then transfer to a large bowl; cool.
5. In another bowl, combine the bread crumbs and milk; set aside for 5 minutes. Stir in the egg and egg white. Add the bread mixture to the vegetables. Add the turkey and remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Mix well with your hands; it's very moist.
6. Spoon the mixture into the baking dish. Shape it into a 9-by-5-inch oval loaf. Brush the meatloaf evenly with the remaining 2 tablespoons ketchup.
7. Bake the meatloaf for 50 to 55 minutes or until a meat thermometer inserted into the middle of the loaf registers 170 degrees. Let stand for 5 minutes. Adapted from a recipe by Amy Mastrangelo for Gourmet

This from the Associated Press:

"Madagascar farming officials say a deadly and incurable crop disease has spread widely in the island's main vanilla-producing area.

"Assessment teams say in a report released Monday that the world's main vanilla producer has to radically change farming methods to fight the fungus attacking plants at the root.

"Malagasy agronomic research chief Simeon Rakotomamonjy says the situation is 'critical.' He says the disease has hit 80 percent of plantations around Sambava and Andapa, two of three main centers of vanilla production on the Indian Ocean island's northeast coast.

"Most of Madagascar's vanilla is exported to the United States, where it is used for making confectionary, soft drinks and ice cream."

Imagine a world without vanilla. Now that would be plain. Our baked goods would lack depth, our pie a la mode would be served with what? chocolate ice cream? Future generations would only know the fake scent emanating from plug-in air fresheners and Yankee Candle votives. Woe! If we've taken the wonderful vanilla bean for granted, let's not do so any longer.

Here is a recipe for a pound cake that really makes the most of vanilla. It's well worth the time and expense of the beans. It comes by way of Amanda Hesser's book "Cooking for Mr. Latte" (which, despite the goofy title, contains many good recipes), but it's originally from the Hi-Rise bakery in Cambridge.

Vanilla bean loaves

For the vanilla sugar:
1 split vanilla bean
1 pound sugar

For the cake:
3 sticks unsalted butter, at room temperature
2 1/2 cups vanilla sugar
1 vanilla bean
1 Tbs. vanilla extract
8 large eggs at room temperature
3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 1/2 tsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. salt

For the syrup:
1 3/4 cups sugar
2 vanilla beans

1. Make the vanilla sugar in advance: stir bean into sugar and let sit for several days.

2. Preheat oven to 325. Heavily butter two 8x4x3-inch (or similarly sized) loaf pans. Using a paddle attachment, cream the butter and vanilla sugar in a mixer until pale and fluffy.

3. Split the vanilla bean and scrape its seeds into the mixer, along with the vanilla extract and eggs. Beat to mix.

4. Sift the flour, baking powder, and salt into a bowl. Add this to the batter and mix just until smooth -- a few turns of the paddle should do it. Take the bowl off the mixer and use a spatula to scrape the bottom and fold the mixture a few times, to make sure everything is blended. Divide the batter between the buttered pans.

5. Bake for 30 minutes, then rotate the pans and bake until a cake tester or skewer comes out almost clean, another 25 to 40 minutes.

6. While the loaves bake, prepare the syrup: In a small pan, dissolve the sugar in 1 cup of water over medium heat. Split and scrape the vanilla beans, then add beans and seeds to pan and stir a bit to disperse the seeds. Take the pan off the heat.

7. When the loaves are done, cool for 10 minutes on baking racks, then turn them out of their pans and set back on the racks. Place the racks over parchment paper or a baking sheet and brush generously all over -- bottoms, tops, and sides -- with the syrup.

8. Brush a few more times as they cool. Eat right away or wrap and freeze.

Agriculture heavies such as former Massachusetts Secretary of Agriculture Gus Schumacher, and former North Dakota Commissioner of Agriculture Sarah Vogel, along with restaurateur Alice Waters, nutritionist Marion Nestle, and author Michael Pollan are all urging President-elect Obama to appoint a Secretary of Agriculture who cares about sustainability, animal welfare, the environment, and local food systems.

On this Food Democracy Now website, signers write: "We believe that our nation is at a critical juncture in regard to agriculture and its impact on the environment and that our next Secretary of Agriculture must have a broad vision for our collective future that is greater than what past appointments have called for.

"Presently, farmers face serious challenges in terms of the high costs of energy, inputs and land, as well as continually having to fight an economic system and legislative policies that undermine their ability to compete in the open market. The current system unnaturally favors economies of scale, consolidation and market concentration and the allocation of massive subsidies for commodities, all of which benefit the interests of corporate agribusiness over the livelihoods of farm families...we believe our next Secretary of Agriculture must have a vision that calls for: recreating regional food systems, supporting the growth of humane, natural and organic farms, and protecting the environment, biodiversity and the health of our children while implementing policies that place conservation, soil health, animal welfare and worker's rights as well as sustainable renewable energy near the top of their agenda."

Though I'm sure the other former state agriculture secretaries are competent, I nominate Gus Schumacher for the job. He brought the farmers' markets to the state, instituted WIC coupons at the markets for mothers and children, encouraged farmers to sell directly to chefs, and made it easier for families with small businesses such as Christmas trees, flowers, and laying chickens to get tax benefits so they could keep farming the land.

Schumacher spent every weekend crossing the state, visiting farmers. At one point, in another economic downturn, the state took away his car and travel expenses. He got into his own car and paid for it himself.

One day, he called me and said he wanted to show me something at the New England Produce Center in Chelsea.

"Sure, Gus," I said. "What time?"

"Let's get an early start," he said. "There's lots to see. Meet me at 6 a.m."

If you ever want to see a small army of vendors moving thousands of pounds of produce into one terminal and then out to thousands more restaurants and vendors, go to Chelsea at dawn. Take your hard hat.

Wine Report 2009 is available. Once again both joyously readable and entirely indispensible. The 432 page, pocket-sized paperback is edited by the extraordinary Tom Stevenson and is (beautifully) designed to bring you up to date on every significant wine producing region. It accomplishes this by having regional experts provide the content for each area. So you get such A list personalities as Clive Coates writing on Burgundy, Nicholas Belfrage on Italy, and Rosemary George on the South of France. As you can see, I've been a loyal reader since the first volume was published in 2004.

Each correspondent gives you some news, some gossip, a vintage report, and lists of top producers, best value wines, etc. There are also sections aimed at catching you up on biodynamic winemaking, wine and health issues, wine science, and auction/investment topics -- -- all for the cost of a bottle of plonk ($9 at Amazon.com).

It's a shame the Amazon entry doesn't permit browsing. Nor does publisher Dorling Kindersley's site do it justice.

If you're gifting a wine enthusiast this year, you could not do better than wrap up one of these.

T.W. Food is now offering a three-course prix fixe for $39 Sunday-Wednesday evenings (excluding Tuesday wine series nights). You choose a starter (a terrine or a vegetable and blue cheese gratin, for example) and a main course from the a la carte menu (e.g. "variations on the pig," Scottish salmon), then get dessert from the tasting menu.

Erik Jacobs for the Boston Globe

Chef Tim Wiechmann also notes: "In addition, we have reduced the prices on our À La Carte Menu, and are working towards more spontaneous and more frequently changing dishes."

A new vegan cafe is opening on Mass. Ave. in Boston, near the intersection with Huntington. Wheeler's Cafe and Ice Cream Bar will serve vegan salads, sandwiches, ice creams, and other sweets, plus hot beverages. And there will be couches and free Wi-Fi! (And occasional DJs.) It opens officially Dec. 15.

Plus, you kind of have to love their little manga-eyed penguin logo.

The Wheeler in question is Wheeler Del Torro, the creator of Wheeler's Frozen Dessert, vegan ice cream that comes in such flavors as white chocolate espresso, peanut butter marshmallow, banana daiquiri, and pink grapefruit sorbet. (Flavors change frequently.)

The menu will likely feature salads ($6.95) such as the appealingly named "Yuzu Fusion" (greens with snap peas, carrots, jicama, tofu, and a Japanese lime dressing) and the appallingly named "Shiitake Happens" (green beans with shiitake mushrooms, romaine, and miso dressing). Sandwiches ($7.95) include a falafel and a Thai-style vegetable wrap.

Slooowly but surely, the Boston area is becoming more vegan-friendly, with Wheeler's, Grezzo, T.J. Scallywaggle's, and more. Vej Naturals, in Malden, was recently named restaurant of the month on VegCooking, a PETA website. On Sunday at 5:30 p.m., the restaurant hosts a Moroccan dinner that sounds delicious.

Above, part of a chorus line of grower Champagnes on offer at a trade and press tasting at Erbaluce restaurant in Bay Village yesterday. The wines are part of Washington DC-based specialty importer Terry Theise's portfolio. Theise is a tireless promoter of these estate bottled bubblies. Consumers haven't quite got the hang of it yet, but the category is becoming better known. Now is a good time of year to learn about them.

Champagne has many hundreds of independent growers, most of whom sell their crop to one or more of the big Champagne houses with famous names (think Moet, Veuve Cliquot, or Tattinger). The Grandes Marques, as they are known, blend these wines -- of varying quality -- into something that conforms to their house style, with a view to making a consistent product from year to year.

It isn't that Champagne has NO tradition of growers making their own wine from grapes produced exclusively on their own property (as is common in Burgundy, for example), it's just that it hasn't been in the forefront. There are some good reasons for this. Champagne production makes additional demands on a small holder's capital. For example, because most Champagnes are still blends of vintages from previous years as well as the current one, stocks of finished wine have to be held and managed over years.

Then there's the problem of marketing. Because Champagne remains a luxury item reserved for special occasion sipping, a well-known label has a cachet (and therefore a market edge) that a small grower can't match. But when it comes to putting high quality fruit into the bottle, independents may have an edge of their own . . .

Tomorrow is a festive day! In addition to the holiday of Vestival, it is Repeal Day. On Dec. 5, 1933, Utah ratified the 21st Amendment, repealing Prohibition. Since then, it's been our Constitutional right to have a constitutional dram. How to celebrate the day? Drinking a toast to friends, sweethearts, and family seems the clear choice.

"Celebrate us!" (Aram Boghosian for The Boston Globe)

If you prefer to celebrate on your own, perhaps with a little bar crawl, here are a few additional suggestions for where to go.

Cocktails: Craigie on Main, Deep Ellum (file under "beer," too), Drink
Wine: Bin 26 Enoteca, Les Zygomates, Troquet
Beer: Bukowski, Publick House, Redbones

The restaurant guide has cut 19 of its 130 staffers, reports the website paidContent.org.

"The cuts, which were made across all departments, were blamed on the recession," according to paidContent.

Opened in October, for sale in December.

Circle, the South End restaurant that took over the former Bob's Southern Bistro space, is closed. Would you like to purchase a 2,000-square-foot, full-service restaurant/lounge with a 2 a.m. liquor and entertainment license? It could be yours for $795,000. Here's the listing (you must accept their terms before you can view it).

You'll have to act fast. Atlantic Restaurant Group principal Daniel R. Newcomb says he's seeing a lot of action on the property already. "It was the wrong concept at the wrong time," he says -- upscale French in a spot that was beloved for jazz and soul food, opening in a bad economy. A casual concept might do better in the space, he says. His suggestion: an upscale burger joint. Sounds like a winner.

In light of Sheryl's entry below: It wasn't long ago that local restaurants refused to use the words "tap water." They'd say "Would you like sparkling, still, or iced?" Or "Can I offer you bottled water or...," leaving the tap alternative hanging as if drinking from the sink were something to be ashamed of.

Tap water is offered at T.W. Food. (Aram Boghosian for The Boston Globe)

It got to the point where I told a friend I'd give 20 bucks to the first server who offered me "tap water" in so many words. It happened in September 2007 at Trattoria di Monica in the North End. The waitress was very young and sweet, and when I told her I was giving her $20, she actually seemed excited.

Since then, I've been hearing the words "tap water" increasingly. More restaurants are getting rid of bottled water, many installing their own filtration systems and making sparkling water in house. As a green sensibility spreads, ordering many expensive bottles of water has less cachet, and offering tap has more. It's no longer unusual to be asked if you'd like "tap water."

In fact, many servers are offering it with pride. I've heard "Bay Village's finest," "eau de Cambridge," "the Boston 2008" (drinking verrry well right now, I must say), and more.

Have you noticed more people offering tap water? Heard any good euphemisms?

If you're one of the people who say no to bottled water, you'll be pleased to learn that Toronto has actually banned it in many public places. Polaris Institute worked on this ban for years. “Toronto’s decision to ban the bottle and turn on the tap sends a clear message that bottled water’s 15 minutes are up, the marketing scam is exposed, and it is time to go back to the tap,” says Joe Cressy of Polaris. Nestle, Coke, and Pepsi all lobbied for their various brands.

Here's what Pepsi is doing to counter this: Aquafina, says the company, is really just purified tap water. This report says that the US bottled water business is about $15 billion, of which $2.7 billion was spent on Aquafina. Of course Pepsi and the other corporations don't want to lose their prominent place on supermarket shelves and in vending machines.

I've always thought that Aquafina tastes like tap water. Get a Brita Water Filter (some pitchers are less than $20) and make your own.

On Friday, the Wall Street Journal ran a story about the many dining deals being offered in this recession. (Finally, we can use the "r" word.)

The story mentions deals from larger operations such as OpenTable, Restaurant.com, and American Express, steakhouse chains Ruth's Chris and Morton's, and famous sorts such as the Russian Tea Room and Cafe Boulud.

And then, into this mix, it throws 51 Lincoln, a wonderful neighborhood restaurant in Newton. What's it doing in there, of all the restaurants in Boston and beyond cooking up deals?

51 Lincoln offers 51 deals. (Josh Reynolds for the Boston Globe)

Perhaps it's included because 51 Lincoln's so-called economic stimulus menu is more inventive than your usual "app-entree-dessert for $35 on Monday nights" or what have you.

For 51 weeks, the restaurant will offer a three-course menu for $33 Tuesday-Thursday. So far, fairly standard. But each week will focus on a different state (with the 51st "state" being Puerto Rico, because chef Jeff Fournier likes the food there, according to a press release). The states will go in alphabetical order.

This week, Arizona is up. The menu: Arizona menudo soup with tripe, mild green chilies, onions, and fresh mint; pan-seared trout, roasted tomatillos, jicama and corn salad, and roasted chili sauce; and prickly pear ice cream with traditional sweet corn biscuits.

It's nice to see one of these economy-minded menus that still takes risks with flavors and ingredients. As I keep saying (mostly out of fear that the bad economy will mean restaurants serving nothing but mac 'n' cheese and sliders), inexpensive food doesn't have to be boring.

(P.S. I e-mailed WSJ reporter Katy McLaughlin to ask about the 51 Lincoln inclusion. Indeed, she says, it's there because she liked the 51 states idea. Creativity pays off.)

Tune in at noon on Wednesday, Dec. 3, to talk about food and restaurants. (Note: Please post questions directly through the live chat rather than using the blog's "comments" function.)

I never understand all the post-Thanksgiving "we're so tired of turkey, here's what to do with the leftovers so they don't taste like turkey" stories you see in newspapers and food magazines. I don't really need to make turkey mole enchiladas or turkey wonton soup. I'm content to eat 1,001 turkey sandwiches, until the bird is gone. Preferably accompanied by a bowl of turkey barley soup made from the carcass. In fact, I'm not particularly interested in the turkey until it is leftovers. At the actual Thanksgiving dinner, I'm all about the sides.

The sandwich permutations are endless. My favorites: turkey with Russian dressing and lettuce on rye, turkey on a piece of toast with hot gravy poured on top (nominally a sandwich, as it requires fork and knife), and -- the ne plus ultra of Thanksgiving leftover sandwiches -- turkey, cranberry sauce, baby spinach, and extra-sharp cheddar on just about any kind of good bread, toasted or not.

This year my holiday plans went topsy-turvy at the last minute due to an ailing dog, so we roasted a turkey breast at home for Thanksgiving proper, then on Friday I zoomed to New York for a quick "leftovers" visit with my family there. ("Leftovers" is in quotes because, the Thursday Thanksgiving being at someone else's house, my folks make an entirely new meal on Friday and call it leftovers.) A turkey breast doesn't go very far, though, and we're almost out of leftover turkey already. I was just getting started!

What do you do with your leftovers? Do you repurpose them into non-Thanksgiving fare, or do you eat holiday-style till the bird is gone?

Bobby Kacher is a specialty importer of (mainly) French wines based in Washington DC. He is thought a lot of here and his portfolio is well represented in the Massachusetts market. Today, I received his email newsletter. It contained the following summary of the 2008 growing season in France, which is of interest if for no other reason than the sheer oddity of it (the season, not the summary).

Our November trip to France took us to the Loire, Alsace, Chablis, Burgundy, Rhône, Costières de Nimes, Minervois and Roussillon. Every year we like to get a feel for the vintage, even though the wines are in their infancy and sometimes at an odd stage. We also check the previous vintage and update our grower friends with the state of our market.

The "vacanciers" (holiday makers) of July-August were not happy campers in 2008: it rained a lot and never got hot. Not a good sign for the vines either... Light is needed for photosynthesis. Mildew settled in some vineyards, and whoever was not there for the treatments got a bad surprise on their return. By the end of August, the vintage looked lost. Maturity could not be reached.