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51 ways to stimulate the economy (and your appetite)

Posted by Devra First December 2, 2008 05:59 PM

On Friday, the Wall Street Journal ran a story about the many dining deals being offered in this recession. (Finally, we can use the "r" word.)

The story mentions deals from larger operations such as OpenTable, Restaurant.com, and American Express, steakhouse chains Ruth's Chris and Morton's, and famous sorts such as the Russian Tea Room and Cafe Boulud.

And then, into this mix, it throws 51 Lincoln, a wonderful neighborhood restaurant in Newton. What's it doing in there, of all the restaurants in Boston and beyond cooking up deals?

51lincoln.JPG

51 Lincoln offers 51 deals. (Josh Reynolds for the Boston Globe)

Perhaps it's included because 51 Lincoln's so-called economic stimulus menu is more inventive than your usual "app-entree-dessert for $35 on Monday nights" or what have you.

For 51 weeks, the restaurant will offer a three-course menu for $33 Tuesday-Thursday. So far, fairly standard. But each week will focus on a different state (with the 51st "state" being Puerto Rico, because chef Jeff Fournier likes the food there, according to a press release). The states will go in alphabetical order.

This week, Arizona is up. The menu: Arizona menudo soup with tripe, mild green chilies, onions, and fresh mint; pan-seared trout, roasted tomatillos, jicama and corn salad, and roasted chili sauce; and prickly pear ice cream with traditional sweet corn biscuits.

It's nice to see one of these economy-minded menus that still takes risks with flavors and ingredients. As I keep saying (mostly out of fear that the bad economy will mean restaurants serving nothing but mac 'n' cheese and sliders), inexpensive food doesn't have to be boring.

(P.S. I e-mailed WSJ reporter Katy McLaughlin to ask about the 51 Lincoln inclusion. Indeed, she says, it's there because she liked the 51 states idea. Creativity pays off.)

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About Dishing What's cooking in the world of food.
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Sheryl Julian, the Globe's Food Editor, writes regularly for the Food section.
Devra First is the Globe's food reporter and restaurant critic. Her reviews appear weekly in the Food section.
Ann Cortissoz is on the staff of the Globe and writes the First Draft beer column for the Food section.
Stephen Meuse writes about wine for the Globe's Food section. His column on Plonk ($12 and under wines) appears on the last Wednesday of the month.
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