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Restaurant L open ... again

Posted by Devra First December 8, 2008 02:53 PM

Its Boston Public days are over, and the restaurant in Louis Boston is now serving under its old name, this time with Marc Orfaly as chef. Hours are 11:30 a.m. to 7 p.m. 10 p.m. (Thought 7 seemed a little early.) Here's the menu they sent:

appetizers:
thai cobb salad with tahini dressing 15
steamed or fried shrimp & chive dumplings 18
sure, we have a few greens as a simple salad! 13
crispy kobe beef & foie gras dumplings 19
nantucket bay scallops, squash tortelloni, tiny tomatoes 20

two soups:
maria’s creamless cauliflower soup, steamed mussels 18
from time to time there is a second soup MKT

pasta:
spaghetti con pomodoro 18
linguini alla littleneck clams ‘white’ 28

entrée:
louis prime angus burger, garden vegetables, frites 14
halibut ‘en croute,’ braised asian greens, coconut steamed jasmine rice, curry emulsion 32
chicken milanese hot house tomatoes, wild arugula 27
scallop crusted black bass fillet, crispy tofu, forest chinese mushrooms, miso broth 35
unfashionable charbroiled angus sirloin, frites, creamed baby spinach, herb butter 38

a couple of odd things:
48 hour slow cooked beef short rib, stewed kimchee 28
jumbo stuffed artichoke heart, squab breast, port olive sauce 30
lime marinated hamachi, nori cured torchon, lentil pancakes, curried apple chutney 22
char siu pork house fried rice 25

What do you think about dishes with names such as "sure, we have a few greens as a simple salad!" (and that at $13, rather than, say, $7) and "unfashionable charbroiled angus sirloin, frites, creamed baby spinach, herb butter" (and are you willing to pay $38 for something unfashionable)? Do you find them charming or cutesy? I'm sort of torn.

Anyway, the food sounds nice!

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3 comments so far...
  1. Those are some impressive prices, that's for sure. It looks good, but isn't the goal of these places supposed to be to downsize the menu and the prices a little bit? Based on the descriptions, I probably wouldn't be tempted to splurge quite as far as they are asking folks to in this market.

    Posted by J.P. December 8, 08 03:13 PM
  1. I agree - if "sure, we have a few greens..." were priced under $10, I'd find that charming - at $13, it's cutesy and kind of offensive. The unfashionable steak is also borderline cutesy/amusing, and get a load of that $25 pork fried rice! Neither cutesy nor amusing, but kind of a stunning price, especially this December.

    (Another question raised by this menu: how do you encrust black bass filet in scallops, and do the poor scallops remain edible when they've been turned into a crust?)

    Posted by allstonian December 8, 08 05:05 PM
  1. This menu screams, "I am trying soooo hard to be different..." firstly, are they really doing a pasta in TOMATO SAUCE for $18.00? A Linguine alla Vongole for $28.00 and a Cauliflower Soup with MUSSELS for $18.00??? I wish I could line up consulting jobs like this. The over-under on this new/old spot is 6-8 months.

    Posted by flyer1 December 9, 08 09:40 AM
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Sheryl Julian, the Globe's Food Editor, writes regularly for the Food section.
Devra First is the Globe's food reporter and restaurant critic. Her reviews appear weekly in the Food section.
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