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This cat knows beer

Posted by Ann Cortissoz July 20, 2009 12:17 PM

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There's no shortage of brewpubs in Vermont, there isn't even a shortage of brewpubs that serve good beer, but there is a shortage of brewpubs serving good beer and extraordinary food. I found one this weekend in Bristol, Vt.: The Bobcat Cafe.

All seven beers on tap were good, and several were very good: We especially liked the wit beer, the California common, the helles bock, and the Baltic porter.

Then the food arrived.

Cucumber gazpacho was a lovely light green color and managed to be both cooling and tangy. An heirloom tomato and mozzarella salad was served with a balsamic reduction and garlic and basil-infused olive oil that we kept dipping our bread into long after the salad was gone. Beer-braised duck served on a mushroom crepe with macerated cherries had a wonderful combination of earthy, gamey, and tart flavors.

The Bobcat rocketed from a pleasant place to spend an afternoon to a place I started making plans to return to the minute we left.

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About Dishing What's cooking in the world of food.
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Sheryl Julian, the Globe's Food Editor, writes regularly for the Food section.
Devra First is the Globe's food reporter and restaurant critic. Her reviews appear weekly in the Food section.
Ann Cortissoz writes about beer for the food section.
Stephen Meuse writes about wine for the Globe's Food section. His column on Plonk ($12 and under wines) appears on the last Wednesday of the month.
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