We actually got sick of corn on the cob

Before I left for vacation, I read a recipe for corn fritters (it's in this week's Food section), in which contributing writer Jill Santopietro says that sometimes you just get tired of eating corn on the cob every night.

Not me, I thought.

Then last week in rural Vermont, where there's very little to do but walk and read -- and the nearest store is 20 minutes away (one of those quirky but typical country places that sell guns, bullets, artisan bread, and the finest ears of corn you've ever eaten), we did finally need to do something else with the corn besides zipper those rows off the cobs.

We simmered the kernels with the cobs, a chicken backbone from the main course that night, diced pancetta, a finely chopped golden patty pan squash, several local tomatoes, and some chopped potatoes. What a pot!

Corn chowder
Serves 8

1 tablespoon vegetable oil
3 thin slices pancetta, coarsely chopped
1 medium onion, coarsely chopped
Salt and pepper, to taste
2 quarts water
1 chicken bone or 1 chicken thigh
2 large tomatoes, coarsely chopped
3 medium Yukon Gold or Yellow Finn potatoes, cut into 1/4-inch dice
1 golden patty pan squash, coarsely chopped (or use 1 yellow squash)
5 ears fresh corn, kernels removed from the cobs (save the cobs)
3 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme

1. In a soup pot, heat the oil. When it is hot, cook the pancetta, stirring often, until it renders its fat. Add the onion, salt, and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 8 minutes.
2. Add the water, corn cobs, and chicken bone or thigh. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, and simmer for 30 minutes.
3. Add the tomatoes, potatoes, and patty pan. Simmer, stirring occasionally, for 15 minutes.
4. Using tongs, remove the corn cobs from the pot, shaking them to release any vegetables that adhere to them. Remove the chicken bone or thigh (when it cools, use the thigh to make a salad).
5. Add the corn and thyme. Simmer for 5 minutes. Taste for seasoning and add more salt and pepper, if you like. Sheryl Julian