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A memorable meal

Posted by Sheryl Julian  December 14, 2009 03:37 PM
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RoseWater.jpg


I spent the weekend in Brooklyn. Yes, two days in Brooklyn, not going into the city, just walking miles of Park Slope and Fort Greene. (At the Fort Greene farmers' market, I saw an organic chicken for $25!) One night, I dined at Rose Water (above), one of the nicest restaurants I've ever been to.

I'm trying to put my finger on what makes a place like this -- an unadorned dining room where the greeting is genuine and the service terrific -- so memorable. When you walk in, and hang your coat on a hook near the door, you can see the kitchen beside the foyer. It's tiny. So tiny, you think there must be another kitchen in the basement, but there isn't.

RoseWaterkitchen.jpg
And out of that little place come plump sardines stuffed with brandade, melting braised leeks and fennel with a Kalamata vinaigrette, scallops on a parsnip gratin, beautiful roast pheasant with kale, double pork chops on shell beans, braised short ribs on spaetzle, and a chocolate creme brulee with a crackly caramelized top. 

What makes Rose Water so different than many restaurants is pretty perfect food (no one is trying to reinvent cooking here, nor attempting to show you everything they know on one plate) and a staff that really takes care of you. If I lived there, I'd become a regular.
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1 comments so far...
  1. The excecutive chef is Wonderful, and the front of the house gal/manager is beyond Fabulous! Can't wait to go there!

    Posted by Mary December 18, 09 07:36 AM
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Sheryl Julian, the Globe's Food Editor, writes regularly for the Food section.

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