There's nothing skimpy about Stearns & Hill's Bistro. Famished night owls can swoop into the steakhouse at 11 p.m. and order a bone-in prime rib that looks like it's straight out of Bedrock. Specials include such dishes as lemony, cheesy scallop risotto, the wine list is nicely priced, and the pungent vinegar pepper pork chop turns heads when it sails through the room. Because Melrose is a dry town, restaurants must serve food with their spirits, making this vintage downtown a dining destination. Stearns & Hill's is the best place there.
> Kitchen closes at 11 p.m. Thursday through Saturday, 10 Monday through Wednesday, 9 on Sunday
> Stearns & Hill's Bistro, 505 Main Street, Melrose, 781-662-9111, stearnsandhillsbistro.com