Cleaning up the garden in preparation for winter may sound like a tiresome chore, but, in fact, this is the most pleasant time of year for working in the yard. It's not too hot, too cold, too wet, or too buggy. And there are some absolutely perfect days when the air is so clear and invigorating that you just have to spend them outdoors.
Not that you have to rake up every leaf that falls from a tree. Fallen leaves are nature's own fertilizer and mulch. So leave those leaves beneath the trees. Only blow or rake leaves from paved areas, where people might slip on them, and from lawn and cover areas that can be smothered.
One way to turn autumn leaves into nutritious compost is to gather them in a big pile surrounded by chicken wire in a corner of yard where they can be left for a year or two to break down into rich crumbly leaf mold. Or you can just mow over the leaves with a lawn mower and empty the bag where you need weed-free mulch, such as on vegetable and flower gardens. A leaf blower/vacuum/leaf shredder is the best tool for turning leaves into instant mulch. Many retail for under $100.
Or you can insulate roses and hydrangeas against winter with a circle of wire mesh filled with leaves (to be removed in late March). If you have a blue hydrangea that has failed to bloom, make sure the entire plant is covered so the protected flower buds will flower for you next year.
Water any trees and shrubs that still have their leaves because they are in mortal danger from the past several months of drought. This is especially true of young trees planted less than three years ago and street trees, which endure extra punishment from traffic, pollution, and paving. Though your town may plant street trees in front of your house, it's up to you to water them when rain is lacking. Leave a hose dripping by the trunk for several hours so the moisture can sink in.
Also, water your evergreens each week that there's no rain. Rhododendrons and pine trees will continue to lose moisture from their leaves and needles all winter. So help the roots stock up on water now. Wrapping small evergreens with burlap will doubly serve to protect them from browsing deer and from desiccating winter winds.
Don't plant evergreens this late in the year, but feel free to plant deciduous trees and shrubs once they've dropped their leaves and gone dormant. Take advantage of late season sales at nurseries.
After the first frost, dig up tender tubers such as gladiola, dahlia, palladium, and calla lily in the flower garden if you don't want to buy new ones next spring. Cut the tops off and let the bulbs dry in the warm sun for several days before storing them in a cool, dry location such as a cellar.
Pull dead annuals out of flower gardens and containers. Empty and store delicate pottery and garden statuary indoors. Cut unattractive perennials to the ground and pry out exposed weeds that were hiding in the vegetation. Then plant your spring flowering bulbs and cover the entire area with an inch of shredded leaves to enrich the soil and raise the grade.
Feed your lawn with a low-nitrogen 5-10-10 fertilizer to boost root growth, but don't add commercial fertilizer to any other plantings (except bulbs) or you may spur growth too late in the season.
Keep mowing as long as the grass keeps growing. Then get your lawn mower serviced and the blades sharpened before you store it for the winter. Don't forget to drain the fuel from power tools and spray moving parts with a lubricant before storing your tools.
For more information about recycling yard waste visit the Department of Environmental Protection website at state.ma.us/dep/recycle.
Carol Stocker is available to answer your gardening questions in a live chatroom from 1 to 2 p.m. on Boston.com most Thursdays.
